help finding a switch

im looking for a 4 position maintained selector switch to switch between off,sparge,mash and boil that will be similiar to my basic 22mm on/off switches.

do they make one? thanks

example:

will one of these work? i can't figure what all the contact block selections mean?

http://www.omega.com/pptst/OMPBD7-SS.html

Figuring out which contact blocks you would need is a function of what you would want each position of the switch to do. Can you describe your objectives for your brewery, and specifically which components would be on and which would be off for each position of the 4-way switch? I haven't seen a build described with a 4-way switch, and that may certainly work for you, but there may be some alternatives to consider as well.

They are available, but you'll more than likely have to build the contact set to your needs. If you purchase a name brand like Square-D, Cutler-Hammer(Eaton), you'll find the switch can be built with multiple contact blocks. An ohm meter will help you find which contact set is closed in each position.

Grainger may have it. Browse their site. This is close to what you seek:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/EATON-Selector-Switch-12Y237?Pid=search

'da Kid

I basically have a three element setup, but will only be running one element at a time. positions:
#1- OFF
#2- sparge
#3- mash
#4- boil

does that make sense?

ETA: so basically1NO and 3NC

this part number-OMPBD7P-SM42PX10 from omega says it's a 4-way with 1 NO contact. does that mean the other three positions are NC?

That will work. They are including the first set of contacts. They likely use a contact set to hold the guts of the switch in.

You'll need to purchase the additional 2 N.O. contact blocks.
OMPBD7-X10

I don't think you need the "Early Break" contacts as you're not reversing or using multiple voltages.

On most quality switches, you don't need a contact set for the OFF position. I wish they had a better description of their 4-way operation. They covered the 2 & 3-way switches very well.

I'll assume you'll be using relays or SSR's to control the elements as I see these contacts are only good for 10Amps.

'da Kid

The10mmKid said:

That will work. They are including the first set of contacts. They likely use a contact set to hold the guts of the switch in.

You'll need to purchase the additional 2 N.O. contact blocks.
OMPBD7-X10

I don't think you need the "Early Break" contacts as you're not reversing or using multiple voltages.

On most quality switches, you don't need a contact set for the OFF position. I wish they had a better description of their 4-way operation. They covered the 2 & 3-way switches very well.

I'll assume you'll be using relays or SSR's to control the elements as I see these contacts are only good for 10Amps.

'da Kid

Click to expand...

ok, so i dont need any NC contacts?

I don't think so.

N.C. means just that, Normally Closed.

What do you want ON(closed) in the OFF(normal) position?

'Normal' usually implies no outside force or action.

'da Kid

The10mmKid said:

I don't think so.

N.C. means just that, Normally Closed.

What do you want ON(closed) in the OFF(normal) position?

'Normal' usually implies no outside force or action.

'da Kid

Click to expand...

ok i think i understand

thank you so much

You're Welcome gmtech

It might behoove you to contact OMEGA

I was looking at EATONs website (our usual switch supplier) and their 4-way shows:
OFF -POS 1 - OFF - POS 2 - OFF - POS 3 - back at the starting OFF

Kinda like a rotary.

Maybe OMEGA can provide some insight on their switch.

I'm off to work,
'da Kid

here is a chart omega emailed me. they told me that i need two N.C. contacts plus the one N.O. that comes with it. does that make sense?

gmtech825 said:

I basically have a three element setup, but will only be running one element at a time. positions:
#1- OFF
#2- sparge
#3- mash
#4- boil

does that make sense?

ETA: so basically1NO and 3NC

Click to expand...

OFF is obvious.

What components are powered on for sparge, mash, and boil?

Are you just trying to select one of the 3 elements?

jeffmeh said:

OFF is obvious.

What components are powered on for sparge, mash, and boil?

Are you just trying to select one of the 3 elements?

Click to expand...

yes, exactly

Out of curiosity, how many vessels? HERMS, RIMS, or something different? Are you using PIDs and/or mechanical relays? I still don't really know what you are trying to do, and why you would need 3 elements and a 4-way switch. Again, it is unconventional, though certainly feasible. What is your anticipated brewing process?

Im not really following your typical herms or rims system. i have 3 vessels, a kettle, a mash tun and a sparge water heating tank all controlled by pid's . the switch will power the mechanical relays to allow power to whichever element is selected so that only one can be on at a time.

basic process would be to heat water in the mash tun, add grain and mash, heat sparge water shortly before mash is finished and then sparge into kettle.


i dont have pumps or anything and my mash tun is a cooler

Good Morning gmtech,
Looks like that switch will work.
The OMEGA person is correct according to the chart.
You need two N.C.E.B. contacts and possibly a spare contact for spacing.

When they describe "Position on mounting latch", I don't know if they mean from viewed from the rear or not. Should be. It is important where the N.C.E.B. contacts are located on the switch though. Should be easy enough to unlatch and move them.

My first attempt would be:
Left - Stacked set of N. O. & N.C.E.B.
Center - Empty or the spare contact if needed
Right - N.C.E.B.

(Those Engineers sure put a lot of time into designing the cams/dogs inside them switch guts):cross:

You'll want to verify this with an OHM meter while the switch is 'in hand' and access is easy.

I was thinking of an alternative method last night and maybe you could use a more common 3-way switch for Sparge, Boil & Mash; with a "Heaters On" switch feeding that one.

The heaters on switch could be illuminated to tell who "Hey BrewMaster, the heaters are on"

Have a great one,
'da Kid

The10mmKid said:

Good Morning gmtech,
Looks like that switch will work.
The OMEGA person is correct according to the chart.
You need two N.C.E.B. contacts and possibly a spare contact for spacing.

When they describe "Position on mounting latch", I don't know if they mean from viewed from the rear or not. Should be. It is important where the N.C.E.B. contacts are located on the switch though. Should be easy enough to unlatch and move them.

My first attempt would be:
Left - Stacked set of N. O. & N.C.E.B.
Center - Empty or the spare contact if needed
Right - N.C.E.B.

(Those Engineers sure put a lot of time into designing the cams/dogs inside them switch guts):cross:

You'll want to verify this with an OHM meter while the switch is 'in hand' and access is easy.

I was thinking of an alternative method last night and maybe you could use a more common 3-way switch for Sparge, Boil & Mash; with a "Heaters On" switch feeding that one.

The heaters on switch could be illuminated to tell who "Hey BrewMaster, the heaters are on"

Have a great one,
'da Kid

Click to expand...

thanks so much for the help, i also thought about the three way switch with a element on switch as well but like the 4 way idea better. I ordered a 4 way with 2 NCEB contacts and it comes with 1 NO.

+1 to the10mmkid and the folks at omega for being so helpful and friendly.