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Old 05-14-2013, 02:30 AM   #1
desertrat2468
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Default $3.43 Tap-a-Draft draft conversion

In preparation for purchasing my first set of Tap-a-Draft bottles, I scoured the web for ideas on how to use bottled CO2 with the bottles. I saw several ideas, but didn't like the price tags (~$50). Why not just buy kegs at that point? So... after some research, and 3-day shipping from US plastics, here's my take:

I used the following items from US Plastic:

One 1/8" check valve (Item #57171, $2.01)
Two 1/4" HDPE elbows (Item #64904, $0.71 ea)
(didn't use the 1/8" elbows, but with $7 shipping & handling, I got them just in case)
Shipping: $5.99 (most expensive part)

Here's the basic process I followed:
1) drilled two 5/16" holes in the top of the Bottle caps (after removing the cap's interior post with an Exacto knife). cleaned up holes

2) used superglue to hold elbows in place with a small (~3mm?) offset from the fully seated position to give clearance when installing the exterior tubing.

3) JB welded the underside of the caps around the elbows

4) removed hot glue, & epoxied all around the exterior of the elbows

5) "glued" check valve in place using tile/tub silicone caulk. Yes...there are a faction of you cringing at this...feel free to be fancy & use stainless, but we all pay our own bills.

6) installed ~1.5 ft of beer tubing & a party tap to finish the job.

7) I will add a length of vinyl tubing to the fluid out barb & weight the end down with a SS nut (~$1?)

Initial pressure test was ~10PSI induced via a bicycle pump. Held pressure great & no leaks!


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Old 05-14-2013, 02:57 AM   #2
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I am pretty sure the JB weld is no where near food safe and can't imagine th flavor it may give off


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Old 05-14-2013, 03:14 AM   #3
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The JB Weld MSDS has some pretty nasty chemicals, and it's an OSHA defined "Hazardous Chemical". But their FAQ states that "When fully cured, J-B Weld is completely resistant to water, gasoline, and about every other petroleum product or automotive chemical." and "When fully cured, J-B Weld is non-toxic. However, we do not recommend consuming the product."

Even though you're probably fine, I'd still try and cover the JB Weld with some sort of food safe sealant.
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:29 AM   #4
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Noted on sealing the JB Weld. Thanks for the help. Still going to be mucho cheaper than the alternatives I've seen.
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:13 PM   #5
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Here's to creativity! Nicely done!
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:14 PM   #6
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i like this, i wonder how well plastic welding would do under pressure like this? as long as you aren't force carbing and just putting it under like 10ish PSI, in theory, it should be fine. Actually, this would be rather cool on some 2liters and a party!
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:52 PM   #7
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The plastic components are well able to stand the pressure (rated >100psi). The combination of food-grade caulk (picture 1) & JB weld on the inside, & a wad of epoxy on the outside are more than able to hold the pressure, since the total outward force exerted would be on the order of 1/10th the indicated pressure (nominally ~1/10 sq-in area over which that force is exerted in the outward direction). BTW- I changed the pickup tube setup to use a section of 1/4" stainless tubing I had laying around (picture 2).
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Old 07-14-2013, 05:54 AM   #8
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Default Fantastic!

[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Chad/Desktop/photo.JPG[/IMG]

I made a carbonator cap for the TAD system that just uses the ball-lock system like the real 2L carbonator cap does.
I like your idea of a cheap way to do this, one that I could apply to all my bottles and put them in a mini fridge, yet have 3 different beers on tap! Your cap looks a lot different than any of the TAD caps I've seen, since it has a deeper well, more threads, and an O-ring inside. I got the Polyseal caps from williamsbrewing, and they work fine with only 1 hole. Where can you get caps like yours?
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Old 07-14-2013, 01:52 PM   #9
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What a great idea! Now my TAD bottles will be useable again. Thanks for sharing!
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Old 07-14-2013, 05:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drinkwd40 View Post

I made a carbonator cap for the TAD system that just uses the ball-lock system like the real 2L carbonator cap does.
I like your idea of a cheap way to do this, one that I could apply to all my bottles and put them in a mini fridge, yet have 3 different beers on tap! Your cap looks a lot different than any of the TAD caps I've seen, since it has a deeper well, more threads, and an O-ring inside. I got the Polyseal caps from williamsbrewing, and they work fine with only 1 hole. Where can you get caps like yours?
Those are a new TAD cap design from the manufacturer. They are $1.79 on the Sturman BG website. I also use the polyseal caps but still have issues with leaking. It might be a bad bottle however.
I just order 4 of the new caps to build a paintball tank/TAD system. I'll center drill a hole in one of the caps and mount a 1/4" SS bulkhead fitting. Hopefully, I can get a good seal with nuts, washers and rubber gaskets. The problem I see with epoxy is that it does not truly bond to HDPE.


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