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Old 04-02-2013, 11:57 PM   #11
NuttyProf21
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How does it slow the sparge so you get good extraction? I also don't get how you slow the wort down to chill it?


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Old 04-03-2013, 12:19 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NuttyProf21
How does it slow the sparge so you get good extraction? I also don't get how you slow the wort down to chill it?
I have a manual valve on the input to the kettle (the round dot) and on the output of the chiller.


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Old 04-03-2013, 03:14 PM   #13
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Dr_Deathweed! How's it going man? I fell off of the homebrew wagon for a while, but I've been back on it and find myself in a very similar state of the union as you are in.... I recently sold my "BrewFlex" and am planning out a bigger electric system. Almost too many options!

Had one question on your plans.... I had looked at 60 amp also, but learned (at least according to Kal's website) that there is not a 60 amp "certified" outlet/plug combination. Did you find a solution for that? If I'm going to be buying a $120 circuit breaker, the 50 amp is pretty much the same price as the 60, so I'd like to do that, but was derailed by the plug/outlet.

Hope all has been well with ya!
Jason
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:02 PM   #14
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Jas! Good to hear from you! We will have to work out a time to come out and check out the new place when things get progressing!

As far as the 60A thing, I am building right next to the 100A drop into the barn where the 60A breaker will be installed, then running 4AWG THHN the 10 or so feet through conduit to my control panel where it will be distributed through a breaker system into my 25A element circuts and a 15A "everything else" circut. Still working on panel details, have a friend in a machine shop that may be building me a custom box that will be partly inset in the wall so all wiring will be run to outlets behind the brewstand where I can plug in elements/pumps/temp probes/valves/etc. Still working on details, but this is the plan so far. I will modify as my brewhouse build continues here.

I have a couple electritian friends coming out as well to see if I can get 150A or 200A service out there (I think the wiring that is run can handle it but would like an expert double check) since the cool room and a second barn/man cave will be running off this service as well. But I am talking more "dream" stage and not foreseeable future on those projects.
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Old 04-03-2013, 05:55 PM   #15
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Oh wow... A new brew barn and got married... How long was I out? Congrats on both counts! The barn looks like a fun project!!
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:38 PM   #16
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Did some simplification, will do a cheap afgahnastanimation slideshow with process when I get a little more time. Basicaly removed a couple valves and water directly into MLT since I can switch some valves and get the same thing.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:35 PM   #17
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Default Power in, e-stop

Would this be a decent setup for the power into my control panel?
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or would running a NO E stop button in paralell with a couple 1Kohm Resistors to trip that 1A breaker be a more ideal setup. If what I have above is appropriate, it seems simplified to me and allows a keyed on/off to the main power plus an E-Stop that will cut all power at the panel without going back to the main GFCI breaker.
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Old 04-09-2013, 06:19 PM   #18
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Very rough schematic of element control:

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Did not draw neutral or ground lines to keep clutter down, of course they will all be connected. All switches will be on 12V DC from my DC power supply, extra relay for MLT element since that one will be manual most of the time for strike water, then never on again. Leaving the auto avenue open however for when I get playing with the brewtroller.
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:46 AM   #19
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A couple of notes and only my suggestions.
Regarding E-stop - If you hit e-stop at anytime...then everything gets powered down. Sure the BT will reboot to the last step and pick up. I liked the idea of having the e-stop only the things that are higher power. (ie. pumps/elements) I have mine wired to when I hit the e-stop or the BT senses no heartbeat, elements and pumps go black. It came in handy on the first brew day when I didn't clamp a hose well enough and hot wort started flying across the basement. One hit of the e-stop and it "stopped". Your way would achieve the same end result though..so only a suggestion.

Everything else looked good, but I'm gonna question the element in the MLT again. If your element in your HLT is sufficient, many guys are successful with heating strike water in the MLT by running it through the HERMS coil while heating sparge water. Might be something to thing about. I would hate to image cleaning yet another grain laden object in the MLT.

Looks like your off to a good start!

S-
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:38 PM   #20
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PS -

Thank you as always for your informed feedback. The MLT element will probably not be in my first iteration of my build, and if I like not having it, then it will never be added. As far as cleanup, I was planning on a tip dump setup for boil and MLT, and I have a mid pressure powerwasher with a trench drain to just pressure wash everything off at the end of the day.

I love the idea of keeping the BT powered and cutting everything else with the E-stop, thank you! What about keeping the key switch for a main throw to all power, for shutting everything down at the end of a brew day for example, then E-stop for just high powered elements? I will get back to the drawing board and see if I can come up with an example.

Edit: Like this -
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