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Old 01-22-2013, 05:36 PM   #1
kyle6357
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Jan 2013
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When dry hopping how long do you wait before you add?

 
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:39 PM   #2
ThickHead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle6357 View Post
When dry hopping how long do you wait before you add?
Until you reach terminal gravity. Then add dry hops for 7-10 days.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:40 PM   #3
dcp27
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wait til the week before bottling

 
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:43 PM   #4
bobbrews
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For IPAs, I typically do 2.5 to 3 weeks initially without dryhops and then 1 to 1.5 weeks with dryhops. I've tried many other schedules over the years and I personally prefer this one the best.

 
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:45 PM   #5
JohnK93
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If I can tack a question onto this one, I dry hopped for the first time yesterday by weighting my hop sack with a few SS screws (both boiled beforehand). When I dropped into the carboy, it sank to the bottom, so I thought I had added too much weight, but this morning it was floating on top of the beer. My questions are (and I'll continue to search the forum), should I just let it float on top or fish it out and add more weight to sink it? Do you agitate the beer by giving the carboy a gentle swirl while the dry hopping is taking place? It seems like this would be necessary to evenly distribute the hops.

Thanks,
John

 
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:49 PM   #6
ThickHead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnK93 View Post
If I can tack a question onto this one, I dry hopped for the first time yesterday by weighting my hop sack with a few SS screws (both boiled beforehand). When I dropped into the carboy, it sank to the bottom, so I thought I had added too much weight, but this morning it was floating on top of the beer. My questions are (and I'll continue to search the forum), should I just let it float on top or fish it out and add more weight to sink it? Do you agitate the beer by giving the carboy a gentle swirl while the dry hopping is taking place? It seems like this would be necessary to evenly distribute the hops.

Thanks,
John
You will improve your utilization if you sink your hop sack (provided the hop sack is not too small to allow the hops room to expand). You can gently swirl or stir your hops but this will only probably add fractions to your utilization.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:23 PM   #7
bobbrews
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnK93 View Post
If I can tack a question onto this one, I dry hopped for the first time yesterday by weighting my hop sack with a few SS screws. When I dropped into the carboy, it sank to the bottom, so I thought I had added too much weight, but this morning it was floating on top of the beer. My questions are, should I just let it float on top or fish it out and add more weight to sink it? Do you agitate the beer by giving the carboy a gentle swirl while the dry hopping is taking place? It seems like this would be necessary to evenly distribute the hops.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThickHead View Post
You will improve your utilization if you sink your hop sack (provided the hop sack is not too small to allow the hops room to expand). You can gently swirl or stir your hops but this will only probably add fractions to your utilization.
1) Screws are sharp on the ends and they will puncture your bag. If using a carboy, it may also prove difficult to dislodge the screws from the neck of the carboy since they might get caught.

2) Did you use pellet hops or leaf hops? When unbagged, pellet hops will all eventually sink whereas the majority of leaf hops will always float. A weighted bag needs to be heavy enough to keep leaf hops submerged. Screws don't seem to be that heavy unless you were using a ton of them.

3) Do not fish it out. Lesson learned. Either weigh it down more in the future, or skip the bag idea altogether. You will only be introducing unwanted oxygen by trying to fish it out at this point.

4) While not completely submerged, the dryhops are still offering flavor & aroma. I wouldn't worry about it too much. I've heard of the swirling idea urged, but I would personally avoid shaking once the dryhops are in. You don't want the hops to be coated with a layer of yeast and become less effective. You do want the yeast/trub/proteins to drop out, not to be in suspension. Time and gravity are your friend.

----------

A) A) Hop Utilization is typically used in the sense of IBUs, Isomerization, and Bitterness during the boil. With dryhops, the beer is cold. There is no more isomerization or IBU extraction going on.

B) I personally don't see any benefit in bagging pellet hops. They are my choice of dryhops. However, for weighted/bagged leaf hops in a yeast-cake free secondary, I can see the benefit.

 
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:32 PM   #8
ThickHead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbrews View Post
A) Hop Utilization is typically used in the sense of IBUs, Isomerization, and Bitterness during the boil. With dryhops, the beer is cold. There is no more isomerization or IBU extraction going on.
Unless your utilization is steered toward aroma and not bittering (as in dry-hopping). What else would you call it if not "utilization?"
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:40 PM   #9
bobbrews
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I understood what you meant. But it's kind of like referring to mash ph as "mph" instead of what people normally are accustomed to seeing it as, miles per hour.

I would call it more aroma, or more hop oil extraction.

 
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:50 PM   #10
ThickHead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbrews View Post
I understood what you meant. But it's kind of like referring to mash ph as "mph" instead of what people normally are accustomed to seeing it as, miles per hour.

I would call it more aroma, or more hop oil extraction.
I get where you're coming from. But honestly, I find the word utilization used related to dry hopping as quite common. I suppose extraction works just as well but then we are off on a "I say potAto, you say potato" Louis Armstrong thing....
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