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Old 09-10-2012, 06:08 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by AmandaK View Post
Honestly, I think that a 1 oz. of both of those hops for FWH is going to be entirely way too bitter for a Pale Ale. Depending on AA%, of course.

My house pale ale is still a work in progress, but where I have it now, it is WAY too bitter for an APA. Here's my general recipe:

8# 2-row
3# Munich
1/2# C80
--------
0.25 oz (each) Galaxy @ 12.8% and Centennial @ 8.7% - FWH
0.50 oz (each) Galaxy @ 12.8% and Centennial @ 8.7% - 20 minutes
1.00 oz (each) Galaxy @ 12.8% and Centennial @ 8.7% - 5 minutes
--------
OG: 1.053
FG: 1.011

I can't find a consensus on how to calculate FWH IBUs, but using 90 minutes boil that brings me to ~60 IBUs. And drinking it yesterday, I need to tone it down a notch - not balanced, very bitter. I may just remove the 20 minute addition for my next go around.

You are correct, I have been thinking and Im scaling it back. My girlfriend and I are serious hopheads, but this beer probably wont have the body to back it up. Most of the beers I make are have a bigger OG.

6 gallon batch, 60 min boil, 75% efficiency

I'm now at

9 lbs 2 row
8 oz carafoam
8 oz crystal 40

FWH
.4 oz simcoe
.4 oz citra
.2 oz nelson

Aroma Steep
1 oz simcoe
1 oz citra
.5 nelson

dry hop
1 oz citra
1 oz simcoe
.5 nelson

that puts me at 1.045 and 44 IBUs

I dropped the corn sugar and melanoidin. I'm looking for a clean malt profile and explosive hop aroma and flavor.

I may use wlp007 instead of wlp002. I have stocks of both.


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Old 09-10-2012, 06:26 PM   #12
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With a BU:GU ratio of ~1.0, that will be pretty dang bitter, but I'm not gonna argue with a hop head!

The recipe I posted above has a BU:GU ratio of 1.17... and it's not very pleasant to drink. Don't get me wrong, I love me some hops, but there's a point where it's too much and not much a "quaffer", if you will. I have two taps in my living room and only like to keep very pleasing, low alcohol session beers in it. At BU:GU of 1.17, it's just too much for more than two pints.

That being said, I think I'm going to back it down to a 0.74 BU:GU ratio. And forego the FWH since I can't reliably calculate the IBUs... so here's my latest plan:
0.50 oz Centennial - 8.7% - 60
0.25 oz Centennial - 8.7% - 20
0.50 oz Galaxy - 12.8% - 20
1.00 oz Galaxy - Flame Out
1.00 oz Citra - Flame Out

OG: 1.053, IBU 39
Should be about 0.74 BU:GU... so hopefully it'll be a bit more sessionable.


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Old 09-10-2012, 07:18 PM   #13
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If it was a normal bittering addition I would be more hesitant to move forward. My fascination with FWH is the different kind of bitterness it imparts. I have been brewing skeezers zombie dust clone which also has a 1 ratio. In fact i accidentally reversed the FWH and 15 min addition last time and it was prolly more like 1.2. It's delicious for my tastes.

Full steam ahead, can't wait for one of my carboys to empty(15 days). I'll report back in a couple months.
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:28 PM   #14
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It's delicious for my tastes. Full steam ahead, can't wait for one of my carboys to empty(15 days). I'll report back in a couple months.
Wonderful!
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:35 PM   #15
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Nelson will probably dominate more than the Simcoe - i've brewed an ipa with those 3 before, 1oz each at 20min and 1oz each at flameout and dryhop in keg - delicious but the Nelson is still the most noticeable
Terrapinj, what is your process for dry hopping in the keg? I've seen people mentioning this and would like to try it out. Do you let your beer carb for 2 weeks and then throw a steel mesh tea ball full of pellet hops in there? Also, how long can you let the hops sit in the keg?

Sorry, not trying to hi-jack this thread. I've also been losing the aroma very quickly when kegging, only seems to survive for 1 week of carbonated beer in the keg.
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:46 PM   #16
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I haven't tried it...yet, but from what I have read in my research.

Stainless steel tea ball filled with hops, tie dental floss to the end of the chain and tie it off outside the keg, so you can remove it easily.

Basically the timing of it relative to carbing depends on your carb method. For a 2 week method, why not add the hop ball for the last 5 days of carbing and 5 days of drinking...then pull it out.
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Old 09-10-2012, 07:52 PM   #17
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dry hopping at lower temps extracts the aroma way slower than at room temp, so you need a longer exposure period and you can leave the hops in the beer for much longer without off flavors

i use hop socks from my LHBS and tie them off with twine (all sanitized) - I haven't tried tea balls but the issues i've read about are, limited space (usually 1oz or so), sometimes still dry in the middle if packed too tightly, and they can bust open spilling the hops inside

i normally place the bag inside the bottom of the keg, rack on top and then place in the keezer and carbonate like i normally would. usually takes at least 1-2weeks to notice much aroma. i've left them in there for 6 weeks before and never noticed any grassiness or off flavors
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:01 PM   #18
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Whoa 6 weeks...didn't think about the slower absorption. Do you dry hop in addition to keg hopping?
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:04 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by terrapinj View Post
i normally place the bag inside the bottom of the keg, rack on top and then place in the keezer and carbonate like i normally would. usually takes at least 1-2weeks to notice much aroma. i've left them in there for 6 weeks before and never noticed any grassiness or off flavors
the latest IPA I entered into a BJCP comp scored a 44... It was sitting on the hops in the keg for ~ 2 months. The judges notes all raved about the massive aroma and flavor.
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Old 09-10-2012, 08:23 PM   #20
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Great, thanks for all the replies guys. This is exactly what I was looking for. I think it will take about a month to polish off the keg so I wasn't sure if I'd have to take them out before the end but Jammin just answered that question for me. I might try the hop sock method as well because I did notice that the tea ball will only be able to hold 1 oz. or so. But I'll definitely be using some floss with it so I can fish it out if needed.


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