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Old 08-06-2012, 11:29 PM   #1641
sivdrinks
 
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Primary two weeks, throw loose hops in primary at let sit for 7-10 days. If you can, cold crash for a day or two to help the hops floating around sink to the bottom. When you rack the beer to your bottling bucket or keg fasten a hop bag or 1 gallon paint strainer bag with a rubberband or zip tie around the end of the racking cane. This will help reduce the amount of hops/ trub from ending up in your final product.

 
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Old 08-07-2012, 01:23 AM   #1642
pstrohs
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sivdrinks View Post
Primary two weeks, throw loose hops in primary at let sit for 7-10 days. If you can, cold crash for a day or two to help the hops floating around sink to the bottom. When you rack the beer to your bottling bucket or keg fasten a hop bag or 1 gallon paint strainer bag with a rubberband or zip tie around the end of the racking cane. This will help reduce the amount of hops/ trub from ending up in your final product.
This is exactly what I do.
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:53 AM   #1643
shawnleary
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awesome! thanks everyone. Putting in another container for a week seemed pointless and risked introducing more brain eating amoebas.

 
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:11 PM   #1644
sivdrinks
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnleary
awesome! thanks everyone. Putting in another container for a week seemed pointless and risked introducing more brain eating amoebas.
It's not pointless or necessary. For me it depends on how lazy I am or if I need the carboy to primary another beer. If you need to age something a bit most would agree to get it off the yeast cake after 3/4 weeks and into a secondary. Another thing to consider would be if you plan on washing the yeast to re-use it, not sure you want hops mixed in there.

 
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:54 PM   #1645
D_Nyholm
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Personally, I put them in a 1 gallon paint strained bag or muslin bag so I don't have to worry about excess hops floating around.

 
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:58 PM   #1646
sivdrinks
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D_Nyholm
Personally, I put them in a 1 gallon paint strained bag or muslin bag so I don't have to worry about excess hops floating around.
That's fine if using a bucket but I don't recommend more than an ounce if you plan on getting them back out through the neck of a carboy.

 
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Old 08-07-2012, 01:11 PM   #1647
D_Nyholm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sivdrinks View Post
That's fine if using a bucket but I don't recommend more than an ounce if you plan on getting them back out through the neck of a carboy.
Haha! Very true! I usually dry hop in primary so I use buckets

 
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:32 PM   #1648
JayMac
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Looking at the BJCP guidelines for an american IPA, and looking at the stats of the DFH60, it seems like this could be tweaked a little bit to deliver a more similar clone. I haven't brewed this particular recipe before, but I just thought I'd throw out some ideas. I'm sure this recipe is fantastic as MANY people have confirmed, but in my situation, I don't have the capacity to brew a 1.070 brew, and my friend is funding this one if I can get it anywhere close

First of all, DFH claims their 60 minute is 10-11SRM. Looking at the side by sides here, that doesn't exactly seem the case as the two-row/amber malt combo shouldn't produce anything higher than 5, and it seems to be pretty close to the DFG60... so screw adjusting that too much. You could always use crystal 60, but from the feedback of users that tried it, it seems they found the product to be too sweet.

Some of you have been claiming ABV's of upwards of 7-8%. Although none of us can turn down a great high ABV IPA with beautiful aroma... The 60 minute comes in at a 6.0ABV. I'm thinking to suit the clone better, maybe a 1.062-1.016 drop from OG to FG could hit nearly spot on 6%, while leaving the FG high enough to have that slightly malty finish.

Lastly, DFH claims their 60 minute has 60 IBU's. To lower the IBU count on this one, I figured it would be best just to drop the warrior to 0.5oz from 0.75oz and keeping everything the same. From the AA that are default for BS, this brings the IBU count down to 59.1.

this is the recipe I came up with. I figured I would leave the types of hops the same as yooper did as so many people enjoyed the combo, I just adjusted the amounts and changed the malts. Again, I'm making these adjustments because I can't mash much more than 12lbs of grain, and my friend wants a 60 minute IPA clone because its IMPOSSIBLE to get up here in Canada. Let me know what you think:

Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: WLP001
Yeast Starter: yes, 1.5L
Batch Size (Gallons): 5
Original Gravity: 1.062
Final Gravity: 1.016
IBU: 59.1
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 6.6 SRM
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 10 at 63 degrees
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 10 at 63 degrees


6lbs american 2-row
6lbs marris otter
8oz caraAmber

0.5oz warrior @ 60 *continuous
0.5 oz amarillo @ 35 *continuous
0.5 oz simcoe @ 30 *continuous
0.5 oz simcoe (dryhop)
1oz amarillo (dryhop)

Mash at 153F for one hour. dry hop for last week of fermentation (no need to transfer to secondary)

 
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:58 PM   #1649
Yooper
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I wouldn't use crystal malt- I'd stick with amber malt if you can possibly get it. If not, victory or biscuit malt would be a better choice than the cara- malts. Cara-amber especially- it's a bit stronger/darker than crystal 60L.

I don't really like marris otter in most American style IPAs (with the exception possibly of Surly Furious, which uses Golden Promise but it's similar). I'd go with US or Canadian two-row for the base malt. If you want more malt backbone, you could try Munich malt (say a pound or two) with the US two-row.
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:01 AM   #1650
JayMac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper View Post
I wouldn't use crystal malt- I'd stick with amber malt if you can possibly get it. If not, victory or biscuit malt would be a better choice than the cara- malts. Cara-amber especially- it's a bit stronger/darker than crystal 60L.

I don't really like marris otter in most American style IPAs (with the exception possibly of Surly Furious, which uses Golden Promise but it's similar). I'd go with US or Canadian two-row for the base malt. If you want more malt backbone, you could try Munich malt (say a pound or two) with the US two-row.
So you think 11.5lbs of US 2-row with 1lb of either munich 20L or biscuit would make for a better recipe? I'll need to mash at 1.2 quarts/lb to fit it all in my mash tun. Dangerous or possible?

 
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