Anyone recommend a good intro keg kit?

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msa8967

mickaweapon
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I decided I want to try kegging and would like to know if anyone can recommend a good introductory kit and vendor? I saw this one on amazon and wondered if it is priced right. Sorry to ask such a newbie question but there are no LHBS here where I live to ask. Also how soon will the beer be ready and conditioned once it has been kegged? My swbo is growing tired of my many boxes of bottles.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LZ8NIE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

If there is something you think is better than the set-up above I would like to know.

Thanks...Mick
 
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Same kit here for almost $100 cheaper... http://cgi.ebay.com/Homebrew-Keg-Kit-2-Cornelius-Kegs-Homebrew-Kegging_W0QQitemZ140371513601QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item20aecb5101

Looks like a good kit though.

As far as carbing time goes...there's a lot of differing opinions on which method is best and how fast you can carbonate them. Basically this will sum them up...

Shake and carb method - Crank co2 up to 30psi and shake for awhile then release pressure and set co2 at 10-12psi (depends on fridge temp). Let it sit for a few days and it will be ready. The problem here is that regardless of whether it's carbonated or not...it's still not really ready. You'll be drinking green beer and I highly suggest avoiding this method so you don't overcarb your keg.

30psi without shaking - This method is the same as above only you don't shake the keg and you allow it to sit at 30 psi for 36-48 hours before releasing pressure and turning down. Again, the beer will be green but carbonated after 3-5 days.

Set it and forget it - This method is the method I use and constantly suggest to new keggers because it's simple and fail safe. All you would do is use a carbonation chart to figure out what volume of co2 you want in your beer. After figuring that out based on your fridge temp, set your co2. Purge the keg and forget about it for 2-3 weeks. Beer will be carbonated in about 10 days, but I suggest waiting until week 3.

Regardless of what method you choose, it will always take 2-3 weeks in the keg for your beer to taste "just right" and get rid of all the off flavors that drinking a newly carbed keg can be associated with.
 
That ebay link is a kegconnection kit. Just go straight to kegconnection.com to see their entire site. All of my kegging hardware comes from there. Highest recommendation.
 
That ebay link is a kegconnection kit. Just go straight to kegconnection.com to see their entire site. All of my kegging hardware comes from there. Highest recommendation.

I believe it's actually cheaper if you buy it through ebay though. Awhile back I bought a second kegerator and wanted to upgrade the tower to a dual tap. I priced it out and the same kit on ebay was about $20 more on their website.
 
I ordered a kit from Midwest earlier this month, it was about $220 shipped to Houston. It included the two kegs and a double regulator, the kind that lets me set two different pressures. I like the kit a lot so far, got soda in one of the kegs and planning a brew after my birthday next month. What sold me is the dual pressure settings. Just my 2 cents.

Heres the link:
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/brew-logic-dual-tap-draft-system-with-reconditioned-co2-tank.html

P.S. I got mine with the new aluminum CO2 tank for no extra charge.
 
So will this have everything I need to get started including instructions for first time users or should I search more online for instructions? I am not sure about how to properly clean and sanitize these kegs prior to adding the beer. Seems like the price is good. Really appreciate hearing about this via the forum especially if i can buy from a non-big-box store to help out a business smaller than amazon.

Mick
 
How long will the gas volume in a 5 lb CO2 tank last for kegging? Will 5 lbs run 2 5 gallon kegs and then I'll need a new one? I looked into this set from keg connection and wondered if I should go with a larger CO2 tank. Also, is the dual body connection a worth while investment for $20 more?

http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=324

Thanks everyone for the advice
 
Nice information in this thread thanks for asking this quesiton as it's the info I need as well.
 
I ordered a single basic keg kit from kegconnection. In hindsight, I wish I'd ordered the dual regulator kit. A few weeks after ordering, I got a second keg, which meant I needed a distributor, more hose, more disconnects, etc. A little later I got a third keg...more hose and disconnects (I had bought a 3-way distributor). All things considered, I would have saved money just buying the whole shebang up front.

Even after all that, I still need that second regulator so I can force carb one keg while keeping the other two at serving pressure. If you got the $$$, go for it in one shot.
 
Is there a distinct advantage of using the ball lock keg system over the pin lock system? I have looked at several set ups from keg connection and wonder what makes one set a premium? Right now Keg Connection is having discounted shipping on some sets and I would rather just spend the extra money now to get what I'll need for the future rather than trying to update as I go along.

Thanks,

Mick
 
That ebay link is a kegconnection kit. Just go straight to kegconnection.com to see their entire site. All of my kegging hardware comes from there. Highest recommendation.

Keg Connection, Midwest Supplies, etc. Almost all of the places have a kit that comes with 2 kegs, a double dual regulator, and lines/picnic taps/tank for $200.


They're all pretty much the same, and they're all good shops.


Is there a distinct advantage of using the ball lock keg system over the pin lock system? I

Mick

Ball locks are still being produced, and there's much more of them out there. Pin Locks are generally cheaper because people are afraid of getting stuck with them and not being able to use them.
 
Are there significant differences between standard kegs sets and premium kegs sets from keg connection? I could find a difference mentioned in the descriptions.

Also, can I start with less than 5 gallons of beer in one of these kegs if I adjust for the right mixture? (Like starting with 3 gallons?)
 
Just my $.02 but having just started kegging, and fresh experience. I would buy a double gauge regulator and the necessary equipment to tap one keg only. unless you have the cash laying around. Once it is carbed up, i can dispense most of a keg by only re connecting the tank once or twice, so many kegs can be dispensed early on with only one tank regulator setup. Later as the keezer/ fridge setup is built other peices can easily be sourced at local shops. Picnic taps are great, though i do like my perlic a lot.

My advice to a new kegger is to put all your money and effort into the tank side.
I went with a 5 pounder, and wish on a regular basis that i had a 20 lb tank. I ferment in kegs, and use co2 to push beer around more than just carbing and dispensing. I got 4 batches carbed and dispensed out of my 5 lb tank. In my area, getting the tank filled is near impossible without a trip to Milwaukee. So trade in is a necessity, and a screw job, since i got an underfilled, over priced beat up tank from the Airgas for $16.00 vs $6 at discount liquor.

In my area 20lb tanks are stocked more frequently, exchanged more cost effectively (Weld supply $20 vs airgas raping) and with lower frequency. The tanks are not all beat up either.
 
Just my $.02 but having just started kegging, and fresh experience. I would buy a double gauge regulator and the necessary equipment to tap one keg only. unless you have the cash laying around. Once it is carbed up, i can dispense most of a keg by only re connecting the tank once or twice, so many kegs can be dispensed early on with only one tank regulator setup. .

I think a dual gauge regulator is a waste of money unless you're carbing sodas and the very few high carbonation beers. 90-95% of the time, I use the same pressure for almost every beer. I connect my tank at 10-12psi and leave it alone. If you're carbing by using the 30psi method, then it probably comes in handy, but I hate that method so I never suggest it. I have 2 kegerators. Each has 3 taps. I go through about 12-15 kegs before needing to refill my 5lb tank. I'm using distributors to send gas to each keg.
 
I am not sure what the 30 psi method is. I don't plan to try to carb my beer right away so it can be consumed right away. I have heard that it is still best to leave the beer to condition for 3 weeks in the keg before drinking. Is the 30 psi a method for cleaning the tank or trying to force carb the beer sooner than 3 weeks?
 
It's when you crank the pressure up to 30psi...purge the keg...allow it to sit for 36-48 hours (or shake for a few hours which I strongly disagree with)...purge again....set pressure at 10-12 psi and then you'll have fully carbed beer after a few days. It will stil be green beer though, which it what no one ever mentions. Kegs need to sit for at least 2-3 weeks before their at a good balance and taste great. Otherwise you'll notice it tastes slightly weird until about 1/4 of the keg is left, then it tastes great.
 
I think a dual gauge regulator is a waste of money unless you're carbing sodas and the very few high carbonation beers. 90-95% of the time, I use the same pressure for almost every beer. I connect my tank at 10-12psi and leave it alone. If you're carbing by using the 30psi method, then it probably comes in handy, but I hate that method so I never suggest it. I have 2 kegerators. Each has 3 taps. I go through about 12-15 kegs before needing to refill my 5lb tank. I'm using distributors to send gas to each keg.

It definitely depends on what you tend to brew. The dual-reg has been awesome for me, but I tend to have at least on big Belgian or weizen around that wants a lot more carbonation than usual.
 
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