Originally Posted by superpale
In addition to my previous post, it looks like one may use an SSR control with The SYL-2352 to achieve the same result. I have used the Auber controllers with relay outputs in the past and every one of them has blown the internal relay within 6-8 months of use (no I did not exceed the amp ratings for the relay). Having upgraded to the SYL-2352 controller and using solid state relays has been a solution that proves to stand the test of time, no failures of the controller yet that is. The settings for programming the SYL-2352 up as a refrigeration control are as follows:
At = 0 (on/off control mode)
hy = 3 (+ or - 3 degree offset of setpoint, prevent short cycle)
t = between 60 - 90 (1 to 1.5 minute minimum on/off cycle, further prevent short cycling the compressor!)
cool = 11 (sets controller to cooling mode)
you may use the other settings in the manual to set your preference of decimal point position and F or C temperature readout.
I leave the high and low alarms at 100 & 0 F respectively, because in this case you will not be using the alarm outputs, I found that the 3A 120V rating of the alarm output is too low for my chest freezer compressor.
This is the way I went for a "keezer."
It works very well with a SSR. I added a metal oxide varistor to protect surges on the compressor power side of my SSR, and superpale's settings are correct.
cool = 11 gives you a setting with Fahrenheit, cooling mode, and no alarm suppression
t = cycle time... this is the time the controller takes to compute "what to do." So if you have it set to a minute, it will take a minute to initially turn on the power to the compressor of your freezer. Also when the temp his the hysteresis setting (low or high) it will take a full minute of that temp to read from your thermocouple before the controller decides what to do next.
I used a type K thermocouple from amazon, and the polarity was jacked up on it, so after the freezer turned on for 10 minutes and the temp appeared to go up by 40 degrees F, I flipped the terminals and it works properly now.
I drilled a hole through the compressor hump and into the freezer, missed coolant lines, and then sealed the hole after pushing it through. The thermocouple sits in a bottle of water for consistency with my kegs. I also dremeled the old themrostat off and found that the Auber PID fits well into it's old place.
I used a home depot GE 5.0 cubic ft chest freezer for this project. And a amazon SSR.
Hopefully someone reads this guide and finds this info useful. I figured I'd elaborate on superpale's input as I found it exponentially useful as this thread comes up often on google for "PID keezer" or "PID keg freezer." If you're reading this, and you think a ebay PID is a good idea for a keezer application- think again. your PID needs a on/off mode and a time function so you don't short cycle your freezer's compressor (quick power switching associated with PID power control will cause it to operate with evaporated lubricant, and cause it to seize). An this is why I went with a Auber PID- they have great wiring diagrams as well as manuals for their devices.
I have a ebay "Mypin" T4 PID that does NOT have a on/off mode, and the "Chinglish" user guide is shaky, at best. It is now waiting to be used for another homebrew project if I ever figure out it's settings....