Pre-boil oxidation?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

PeatReek

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2005
Messages
48
Reaction score
0
Location
Bay Area
Ok, kind of an over-think-ish question here; rest assured that I'm chilling out and having a homebrew ;-)

Today I decided to do a "mini" mash that kind of pushed the limit of my (16qt pot) equipment. The grains wouldn't fit in a grain bag so I decided to mash them and then filter with a colander. So far so good. But after the mash as I'm straining the wort, I realize that I'm pouring the wort a huge distance and it's splashing a ton and probably getting all oxidized. Thing is, there was nothing I could do at that point because all my pots were full.

So, Palmer makes a big deal of avoiding oxidation when you're chilling the wort; is it just as important before the boil? Am I going to have cardboard-y beer in a month? Is there anything I can do about it at this point?
 
I've done the exact same thing with the colander before and had fine results. I wouldn't worry about it. That's not to say I would advise to do it again. Now that I built my 5 gal. mash tun I don't have that problem. There have been threads about hot side airation/oxidation before on this site that you can search.
 
I've read that before too and I think it would only matter if you let the mash wort sit a while before you boil. If you boil immediately, all the oxygen is driven off from the water in your mash. Boiling water can not hold disolved gases.

Supposedly, hot side aeriation can cause staleing problems after bottling. Once again logic tells me that this could only happen if you left the oxygen in the hot wort, if you boil it off, it can't oxidize the extract.
 
Back
Top