Brew Garage, Finishing

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maztec

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Location is equipment, right?

I have some brew garage issues I am trying to solve.

First, it is an unfinished drywalled garage. Unfortunately, it has a bad habit of keeping the moisture in when I brew - especially in the winter. It has one, small, vent fan that I can set to run all the time .. but it really doesn't dissipate the moisture. I want to try and reduce the odds of mold or that I am going to ruin the dry wall. Thus, I am trying to figure out the best things I can do to improve it. Especially in the winter when it is down-right frigid outside and keeping the door open is just not a good idea. Not to mention, leaving the door open doesn't really reduce the amount of steam inside, it just increases the height level.

Question #1: Should I paint it? If so, with what? A semi-gloss? I have also had people recommend I clay it in instead to allow it to breathe. Thoughts?

Question #2: Ventilation - Any good tips on how I can get the steam moving out? I am thinking of modifying the windows at the top of the garage door so I can open them and sticking a fan in one. I could, maybe, put a hood over my brew area and a fan and run it to the garage door (connect it when in use) ... Unfortunately, due to my HOA, I cannot punch a hole in the wall and put in an exterior vent. Although, that would be ideal. A temporary through the window assembly is something they would approve of though, or rather they would not notice because it is temporary and thus I wouldn't have to get permission.

Any other tips or tricks people would recommend for the brew garage?

Thanks!

- M
 
What are you using to heat the boil? If it is a propane burner I would never use it with garage door closed.
As far as moisture, I would think a coat of Killz primer and a coat of semigloss would keep the walls sealed.
 
eanmcnulty said:
What are you using to heat the boil? If it is a propane burner I would never use it with garage door closed.
As far as moisture, I would think a coat of Killz primer and a coat of semigloss would keep the walls sealed.
Click to expand...

I built an electric kettle.
 
I am. Considering that. I clicked one of the threads below, and it just seems like a nice way too brew. How long does it take you to get to a boil?
 
eanmcnulty said:
I am. Considering that. I clicked one of the threads below, and it just seems like a nice way too brew. How long does it take you to get to a boil?
Click to expand...

I have a few minor complaints about it, but nothing that would keep anyone from doing it and they are mostly things of my own creation.

For 5 gallons, I reach a full boil in roughly 20-25 minutes depending on how cold it is outside.
 
You can find a tintable mildewcide paint at your local Home Depot or Lowes. I think it is put out by Killz or Zinzer. This will not be the cure all. You will still need some sort of ventilation, but it will help once the ventilation is in place.
 
I brew in a converted 1 car garage with an electric system. I used a dehumidifier, and it keeps up just fine with my 1 gal/hr boiloff rate. It got up to about 80% humidity at the end of the boil, but was back at 50% within 30 minutes.

I used a good primer and then two coats of a high gloss kitchen and bath paint. If that does not work well enough, then there are some water based epoxy paints that work fairly well; I know Benjamin Moore makes a few options.
 
Most paints with mildewcide in them are intended to be used outside, and won't fight against black molds and other types. If you go this route make sure it is interior approved or it can make you sick. There really aren't many paints that dont breathe. You should be fine using an alkyd based paint intended for drywall. When painting offices in places like water treatment plants(alot of humidity, etc.) we used the water based epoxy. It is a really good paint and probably exactly what you need, but it will not keep things from molding. I believe the big box stores carry it, but I know Sherwin Williams does. It is all about ventilation here. I would go for basic latex paint and use a dehumidifier while brewing or just a big fan blowing out the door. But thats because basic latex paint is cheaper and I already have the dehumidifier.
 
This winter I plan to build a hood above the brew stand with the ducts going out a temporary manifold that will fit in my garage service door (imagine the door opened about 12 inches, then sealing that opening with OSB). The return air will come from the bottom of the manifold and end up below the kettles. This will vent my propane exhaust and the steam from the boil and keep the garage from freezing out during the Minnesota winter. It'll be a Frankenstein setup but it'll work.
 
maztec said:
Location is equipment, right?

I have some brew garage issues I am trying to solve.

First, it is an unfinished drywalled garage. Unfortunately, it has a bad habit of keeping the moisture in when I brew - especially in the winter. It has one, small, vent fan that I can set to run all the time .. but it really doesn't dissipate the moisture. I want to try and reduce the odds of mold or that I am going to ruin the dry wall. Thus, I am trying to figure out the best things I can do to improve it. Especially in the winter when it is down-right frigid outside and keeping the door open is just not a good idea. Not to mention, leaving the door open doesn't really reduce the amount of steam inside, it just increases the height level.

Question #1: Should I paint it? If so, with what? A semi-gloss? I have also had people recommend I clay it in instead to allow it to breathe. Thoughts?

Question #2: Ventilation - Any good tips on how I can get the steam moving out? I am thinking of modifying the windows at the top of the garage door so I can open them and sticking a fan in one. I could, maybe, put a hood over my brew area and a fan and run it to the garage door (connect it when in use) ... Unfortunately, due to my HOA, I cannot punch a hole in the wall and put in an exterior vent. Although, that would be ideal. A temporary through the window assembly is something they would approve of though, or rather they would not notice because it is temporary and thus I wouldn't have to get permission.

Any other tips or tricks people would recommend for the brew garage?

Thanks!

- M
Click to expand...

Get a vent hood and high speed blower and duct it to go through the window. It will not look as pretty as a permanently installed vent. What I don't understand is how can your HOA stop you from installing a vent? Is there a clause in your covenant?
 
Installing a vent would require a modification to the exterior of my home. Thus, HOA has to grant approval. Plus, as a townhouse, the outside paneling covers both my property and my neighbors. That makes installing a vent a bit more difficult. In situations like this, my HOA has a lame clause requiring a certified contractor to do the outside work for a vent. That is going to require more money than I want to spend at the moment, especially when I am competent to do it myself.
 
I'd be leery of a paint solution. Seems like a band aid and at some point you will have to deal with the problem or its repercussions. One idea to consider is ducting attached to a lid you can place on your keggle a few inches above the boil. At such close range a cheap 100CFM fan might be all you need. You can even leave it temporary. Just get 25' of ducting $25 or so and lay it on the ground and out the door when you brew, at least until you're decided on a more permanent solution.

I bought an 8" inline fan here. http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/active-air-inline-fans-c-76_744.html

It was on sale for $79 at the time. More than enough power for brewing 10 gallons in my basement. I vented thru a window and use an 8 x 10" increaser hovering over my keggle.
Mashing.jpg
 

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