STC 1000 "Ebay" Temperature Controller Build

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TastyAdventure

The wire color labels are not clear but I'll take a stab at it. Essentially the STC1000 cool relay will replace the component labeled "TEMPERATURE CONTROL". The two wires (Brown? & Gray) connected to this component need to be removed and connected to 7 & 8 of the STC1000. An STC1000 power source to 1 & 2 must be obtained from the Hot and Neutral lines that are shown as the left-most and right-most vertical lines on the diagram. Brown (hot) and if the defrost control is accessable, Orange (neutral) can be used.
 
Like every other external/add-on controller I've seen, the STC-1000 has no provision for an actual safety ground connection.
For USA/120vac applications you should wire the chassis/safety ground from the fridge to the green/safety ground on a three-pronged plug or outlet...

Cheers!
 
raouliii said:
TastyAdventure

The wire color labels are not clear but I'll take a stab at it. Essentially the STC1000 cool relay will replace the component labeled "TEMPERATURE CONTROL". The two wires (Brown? & Gray) connected to this component need to be removed and connected to 7 & 8 of the STC1000. An STC1000 power source to 1 & 2 must be obtained from the Hot and Neutral lines that are shown as the left-most and right-most vertical lines on the diagram. Brown (hot) and if the defrost control is accessable, Orange (neutral) can be used.
Click to expand...

So my friend who has a little bit of wiring experience (guitars) messed with it and it didn't work. Then I posted my question here, and after looking at my friend's job it appeared that I needed to switch the 1 & 7 slots. That didn't work and I tried a few other combos of switching wires around, all resulting in power to the STC, but it would never kick on the fridge...
 
TastyAdventure said:
So my friend who has a little bit of wiring experience (guitars) messed with it and it didn't work. Then I posted my question here, and after looking at my friend's job it appeared that I needed to switch the 1 & 7 slots. That didn't work and I tried a few other combos of switching wires around, all resulting in power to the STC, but it would never kick on the fridge...
Click to expand...

And you are aware that the factory setting for the compressor delay is 5 min right? When you first power up the controller the compressor delay is activated, and the relay on the cool side won't activate until 5 min has passed. The "cool" light will blink if the temperature is higher than the set point and the compressor delay is activated.
 
JuanMoore said:
And you are aware that the factory setting for the compressor delay is 5 min right? When you first power up the controller the compressor delay is activated, and the relay on the cool side won't activate until 5 min has passed. The "cool" light will blink if the temperature is higher than the set point and the compressor delay is activated.
Click to expand...

Yes. I waited
 
Has anyone had any issues where the controller has stopped functioning properly after weeks of working perfectly?

My stc-1000 worked fine for a couple of months and now all of a sudden it isn't switching power, just keeping both sources (heat and cold) hot at all times... meaning my chest freezer is hovering around 0*F rather than the temp I have it set at. Nothing has changed from previous operating condition...
 
paulquinn said:
Has anyone had any issues where the controller has stopped functioning properly after weeks of working perfectly?

My stc-1000 worked fine for a couple of months and now all of a sudden it isn't switching power, just keeping both sources (heat and cold) hot at all times... meaning my chest freezer is hovering around 0*F rather than the temp I have it set at. Nothing has changed from previous operating condition...
Click to expand...

Have you tried resetting the STC by unplugging it? Maybe it got hung up after a power glitch.

Check the hot/cold connections at the duplex outlet. Maybe a loose strand from the wires has formed a bridge again (bad wiring).

If that doesn't fix it, check the relays with a multimeter for continuity/switch function. Depending on how savvy you are or comfortable working with electricity, perhaps disconnect the 120V power to the relays, for safety. Only leave the unit powered up. Check the sensor too for function, around 10k at 70°F.

The most common problem I've read about is fusing of the relay contacts, so they stay on all the time. You may even hear the relays click but without disengaging. Too high of an (inrush) current can cause that fusing. You could replace the relays or power an SSR directly.
 
inkbird said:
PID temperture will be better than this one, Sestos D1S.
Click to expand...

You didn't quote anyone, so I assume you mean in general the D1S is better than the STC?

For fermentation the STC is great value for money. It's cheap and keeps temperatures in check +/- 0.3C.

A PID would be more accurate, but is also more expensive. Imo you get more value as a homebrewer for the $20 you throw into a STC than a PID, for this particular task.
 
TastyAdventure said:
So my friend who has a little bit of wiring experience (guitars) messed with it and it didn't work. Then I posted my question here, and after looking at my friend's job it appeared that I needed to switch the 1 & 7 slots. That didn't work and I tried a few other combos of switching wires around, all resulting in power to the STC, but it would never kick on the fridge...
Click to expand...

you need to feed hot both to port 5&7. Then taking the same hot (just on the other side of the relay (6&8) to hot on whatever heating or cooling device you use. The "other side" of this device (cold) should eventually somehow lead down to your other prong in the wall.
 
fwiw, there have been at least a few HBTers that received something other than an actual STC-1000 from low-balling sellers.

I would use caution.

Cheers!
 
Smellyglove said:
You didn't quote anyone, so I assume you mean in general the D1S is better than the STC?

For fermentation the STC is great value for money. It's cheap and keeps temperatures in check +/- 0.3C.

A PID would be more accurate, but is also more expensive. Imo you get more value as a homebrewer for the $20 you throw into a STC than a PID, for this particular task.
Click to expand...

I agree if you think about the cost.
But now if there is a Fahrenheit STC-1000, do you want to try.Degree F is more easy than degree C for us. What's more, the price is almost the same as STC-1000.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXPE8U6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
Last edited by a moderator:
inkbird said:
I agree if you think about the cost.
But now if there is a Fahrenheit STC-1000, do you want to try.Degree F is more easy than degree C for us. What's more, the price is almost the same as STC-1000.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OXPE8U6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Click to expand...

I'm a bit suspicious that that unit is not equivalent to an STC-1000 - or any other dual-stage controller, as it may be only a single-stage controller.

The tip is where it says "Switch Between Cooling and Heating Modes".

I bet it's a rebranded MH1210 or a WillHi 7016...

Cheers!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
day_trippr said:
I'm a bit suspicious that that unit is not equivalent to an STC-1000 - or any other dual-stage controller, as it may be only a single-stage controller.

The tip is where it says "Switch Between Cooling and Heating Modes".

I bet it's a rebranded MH1210 or a WillHi 7016...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

it has two output relays, and you can conect cooling and heating at the same time.
It's not a rebranded mh1210 or Willhi 7016.
If you still have double, you can contact the seller there and ask for a sample free.
 
day_trippr said:
I'm a bit suspicious that that unit is not equivalent to an STC-1000 - or any other dual-stage controller, as it may be only a single-stage controller.

The tip is where it says "Switch Between Cooling and Heating Modes".

I bet it's a rebranded MH1210 or a WillHi 7016...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

It has two output relay, and you can connect Cooling and Heating directly. Not the same as MH1210 or a WillHi 7016.
If you want to test, you can contact the seller to ask for a free one.
 
day_trippr said:
I'm a bit suspicious that that unit is not equivalent to an STC-1000 - or any other dual-stage controller, as it may be only a single-stage controller.

The tip is where it says "Switch Between Cooling and Heating Modes".

I bet it's a rebranded MH1210 or a WillHi 7016...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

It has two output relay, and you can connect Cooling and Heating directly. Not the same as MH1210 or a WillHi 7016.
If you want to test, you can contact the seller to ask for a free one.
 
inkbird said:
It has two output relay, and you can connect Cooling and Heating directly. Not the same as MH1210 or a WillHi 7016.
If you want to test, you can contact the seller to ask for a free one.
Click to expand...
Since your screen name is the same, is it a good assumption that you are directly connected to the seller of this item?

The seller might include a photo of the top (wiring diagram) of the unit in the listing. And for us brew geeks, internal photos including the technical data label on the relays would be a good selling point.
 
Anyone use "aftermarket" thermos with this? Looking for compatible stainless ones to use with Brutus ten thermowells :)! Thanks!
 
Maybe someone can tell me what "type" of thermocouple is compatible? J-type, K-type, or Thermistor?
 
inkbird said:
it has two output relays, and you can conect cooling and heating at the same time.
It's not a rebranded mh1210 or Willhi 7016.
If you still have double, you can contact the seller there and ask for a sample free.
Click to expand...

I have one of these as well as a single stage one (which operates the same and has almost the same menu structure.... they both work great... I also have an actual stc1000 and I don't care for the added steps to adjust the temps and the whole celcius thing... some day I would like to flash it to an stc 1000+...the temp probes are interchangeable as others have stated..
 
Here's my STC build

I'd like for the bottom outlet to just have constant power. Would somebody please help me with how to wire the unit to accomplish that?

Thanks!

IMG_20150304_023548.jpg
 
This is my post from earlier in the thread, this will accomplish what you want:

this is the schematic I used, similar to the one gatorbite87 uploaded in the first post, but also includes a fuse (use a 10-amp slow blow) and the second 'constant on' outlet. Just be sure to use 16AWG or 12AWG wire.

View attachment 1425467616957.jpg
 
For my last batch, when it came around to bottling I realized I didn't have any space in my normal "carbing closet" due to my batch of aplfewein currently residing there. Since I didn't need to use my fermentation chamber in the next few weeks, I used it as a carbonation chamber and got great results. The only other option was the basement which is low to mid 60s. I have an amphibian heating pad as my heat source, and set it at 73 degrees. Within a week and a half my session IPA was beautifully carbed.
 
I got sent the wrong controller. I now have a 12V STC-1000 china clone.
Is there any easy way to use the 12V controller?
 

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