Parts list - Did I miss anything

I am getting together the parts list for my single tier brew system. RIMS system, electric for HLT and MLT, propane for the Boil kettle. Did I miss anything on the list, and please give me your thoughts on the best source for any of the parts listed.

Steel bars for structure
4 casters w/ locks

3 Kegs
False bottom for MLT
Pick up tube for boil kettle
Sparge arm for recirculating (submerged)

220V heating element for HLT
110V heating element for RIMS

control box
2 PIDS
2 SSR
4 switches
4 LED indicator lights
Various wires and strips for control box

Pump
6 male disconnects
2 female disconnects
6 Ball valves
1/2 re-inforced hosing

What did I miss? And any hot tips of money saving sources?

I'd run two 220v elements but only for the fact that your main power line can be a lot smaller gauge.

Oh, also why 6 ball valves? 3 on the main outputs of the vessels, then one on the output of the pump.

Bobby_M said:

I'd run two 220v elements but only for the fact that your main power line can be a lot smaller gauge.

Oh, also why 6 ball valves? 3 on the main outputs of the vessels, then one on the output of the pump.

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I will have 220 and 110 coming out of a sub panel. I can run either voltage to either element. What is the benefit of a small wattage 220V element (as opposed to a 110V element)

I also have a ball valve on both end of the RIMS. Trying to figure out why I put both those there. W/ the PID I really don't need them, do I?

Buy the steel from a scrap yard. No sense in paying new prices for it. You should be able to get it at a scrap yard for 30-40 cents a pound.

RegionalChaos said:

Buy the steel from a scrap yard. No sense in paying new prices for it. You should be able to get it at a scrap yard for 30-40 cents a pound.

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I looked online yesterday and found a scrap yard very close to where I work. Thanks for the .30/.40 per pound quote. That will give me a good baseline to work from!!

Running 110 on a 240v element reduces your watts per square inch on the element. Last chance of scorching. However your power output is reduced to roughly 1/4.

Quick question, why dont you go all electric? a 4500W element in the boil kettle will work. I know it wont be as fast as gas but it will work. If it were me I would go all gas or all electric. Personally I hate exchanging propane tanks and electric is SOOO much cheaper.

Virtuous said:

Running 110 on a 240v element reduces your watts per square inch on the element. Last chance of scorching. However your power output is reduced to roughly 1/4.

Quick question, why dont you go all electric? a 4500W element in the boil kettle will work. I know it wont be as fast as gas but it will work. If it were me I would go all gas or all electric. Personally I hate exchanging propane tanks and electric is SOOO much cheaper.

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How much cheaper, anyone run the numbers? And how much slower?

I have the propane cooker already. That is about the only reason that is holding me back from going all electric.

Florida's average kwh cost is 10.2 cents
http://www.neo.ne.gov/statshtml/115.htm

One 4500W element costs $0.459 an hour to run
With an hour long boil and an hour to mash it costs me less than a dollar in electricity.
I dont know how many sessions you can get out of a 20lb LP tank but that stuff cost about a buck a pound down here. I imagine you need a good 2 to 4 pounds for an average brew day.

Virtuous said:

Florida's average kwh cost is 10.2 cents
http://www.neo.ne.gov/statshtml/115.htm

One 4500W element costs $0.459 an hour to run
With an hour long boil and an hour to mash it costs me less than a dollar in electricity.
I dont know how many sessions you can get out of a 20lb LP tank but that stuff cost about a buck a pound down here. I imagine you need a good 2 to 4 pounds for an average brew day.

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Good information. Thanks! You interested in coming to a BBQ and tasting this weekend? Five or six guys and our wives are going to be there. I am hosting it here.

Aust1227 said:

I will have 220 and 110 coming out of a sub panel. I can run either voltage to either element. What is the benefit of a small wattage 220V element (as opposed to a 110V element)

I also have a ball valve on both end of the RIMS. Trying to figure out why I put both those there. W/ the PID I really don't need them, do I?

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I'm just thinking about the overall amperage load on your cable from the panel to subpanel. If it's a short run, no big deal, oversize the heck out of it.

Just as an example, a 2000 watt element on 120V will draw 16.7 amps while it will only draw 8.3 amps on 240v. That load would be added to the other load of say a 4500watt for your HLT that would run 19amps on 240v.

So, you'll have to size your cable to at LEAST 30amps if you run 240v for both. If you run one 120v element at even a modest 2000 watts, it will have to be sized for about 40amps total.

I'm not an electrician, but I think may math is sound.

Dude I would love to go but I have a March of Dimes walk in the morning and a company picnic in the afternoon to go to. If it turns out to be something that is worth doing again I can almost garauntee Ill be there. Hopefully Ill have some homebrew ready by then too

Bobby_M said:

I'm just thinking about the overall amperage load on your cable from the panel to subpanel. If it's a short run, no big deal, oversize the heck out of it.

Just as an example, a 2000 watt element on 120V will draw 16.7 amps while it will only draw 8.3 amps on 240v. That load would be added to the other load of say a 4500watt for your HLT that would run 19amps on 240v.

So, you'll have to size your cable to at LEAST 30amps if you run 240v for both. If you run one 120v element at even a modest 2000 watts, it will have to be sized for about 40amps total.

I'm not an electrician, but I think may math is sound.

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You're right, you do have to be carefull. I planned mine out so I only have one 4500W element on 240v and a 1000W element on 110. I am pulling 240 from my water heater 30A circuit which will be unplugged during brewing and 110 from a 20A garage circuit. I dont see why you would need to run the boil kettle AND the HLT at the same time.

Just as an example, a 2000 watt element on 120V will draw 16.7 amps while it will only draw 8.3 amps on 240v. That load would be added to the other load of say a 4500watt for your HLT that would run 19amps on 240v.

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To be clear: don't run an element rated for 120v at 240v.

See http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/ohmslaw.htm for simple Ohm's law calculations.

S

I will be running 50A to the brew rig. From there I think i will step through a subpanel. My home has 400 or 500 amp service. The detached garage has 100. Not sure what the home builder was planning for, but he gave me plenty of juice!

I am fully aware that you can not run a 110V @ 220V!

Back to the OP.. Am I missing anything. Or can I start building this bad boy?

Back to OT


You dont HAVE to be you REALLY should, add some GFCIs for your electric.
I dont see any weldless bulk heads either.

Just start man, You'll figure out what you're missing when you get there

You should think about adding a sight glass to your HLT to monitor your hot water level.

Jared311 said:

You should think about adding a sight glass to your HLT to monitor your hot water level.

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Good call... Thanks

Virtuous said:

Back to OT


You dont HAVE to be you REALLY should, add some GFCIs for your electric.
I dont see any weldless bulk heads either.

Just start man, You'll figure out what you're missing when you get there

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Sub panel will be wired from a 50A GFI breaker.

I think I am going to weld my fittings. I can pick up the nipples real cheap. And welding just looks like so much fun!