DIPA extract recipe help

I've got about 14 oz. of Centennial pellets and 18 oz. of Magnum pellets. I'm interested in doing a double IPA while I've got the hops at their best. I'm an extract brewer and have a good stock of US-05 on hand. If anyone has a recipe with steeping grains that would work with what I've got, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks in advance.

I did a Stone Ruination clone today, so I don't know how it'll turn out yet!

But the recipe was:

14 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L

1.75 oz Magnum [14.00 %] (60 min) Hops 70.6 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (30 min) Hops 21.3 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (10 min) Hops 10.0 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (1 min) Hops 1.2 IBU

2.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops -

OG was 1.072
I used pacman yeast, because I had a good supply of it. But S05 would work just fine.

If you wanted to do a partial mash, or a steeping grains recipe, that would be easy.

What size boil do you want to do? I can convert it for you.

Thanks so much for helping out. You also gave me lots of good info about dryhopping. I've been doing boils of about 3 gal. for a 5.25 gallon batch. I do like Stone Ruination. I would want to do a steeping grains recipe.

Jeff

ok, for a 3 gallon boil, I'd do this:


1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 8.70 %
5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract

1.75 oz Magnum [14.00 %] (60 min) Hops 40.1 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (30 min) Hops 12.1 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (10 min) Hops 5.7 IBU

5 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Liquid Extract [Boil for 5 min]
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (1 min) Hops 0.7 IBU

2.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (Dry Hop 7 days)

Steep the grains in your boil volume at 155 degrees for 20 minutes. Discard grains, and bring to a boil. Take off the heat, and add 5 lbs extract. Bring to a boil, and add the first hops. Continue the hopping schedule.

With 5 minutes left in the boil, take off the heat and add 5.5 pounds extract. Put back on the heat, stirring well. Add the last hops with one minute left, and then begin chilling the wort.

Dry hop after primary fermention is over.

OG should be 1.073 or so.
IBUs 103+/-

Yooper,

I really appreciate you taking the time to crunch the numbers for me. I'll definitely give this recipe a go when one of my fermenters frees up. I've got three batches going right now, which should be ready to bottle in a couple of weeks. Let me know how this turns out for you and I'll do the same.

Jeff

This sounds great, I might try it for my next batch. Thanks for posting!

Yooperbrew,

I'm wondering if you read this thread, if you might toss me a tiny bit more of your experience.

I'll be heading up to Milwaukee next Saturday for the grand opening of Northern Brewer's satellite store. It's 10% off everything for the weekend, so I'm buying stuff for several batches.

The Stone Ruination clone recipe you crunched for me is for a 3 gallon boil, with 10.5 lbs of malt extract syrup. 10.5 will be hard to do with extract in the quantities that it is sold. I'm thinking about bumping it up to 12 lbs, which will be easy to do with the quantities they sell. My question is about the hop schedule with the change in extract amount.

Also, my hops have slightly lower AA values than those you posted. My Magnum is 12.1% and my Centennial is 8.7%. I've got plenty of both to raise the amounts for a higher-gravity brew. I'm less concerned with it being a clone, than with it being an excellent DIPA. How would you adjust the hops schedule with the information I gave you? If you don't think it would be a good idea, then I can change in any way I need to. Just trying to make things fit together more smoothly, as I don't really want to go the route of weighing my extract and having some left over that I don't use.

Any help you could give would be greatly appreciated.

Btw, the dryhopping advice you gave me in another thread was used for my last IPA. I cracked open a small sampler yesterday to see if it was carbing after a week, and this is going to be a really tasty beer. Thanks for your help.

In a beer that big, the effect of going from 10.5 pounds to 12 pounds (and all but five pounds as a late addition) is practically nil on hops utilzation. It's already over 100 IBUs, so it goes from 101.8 to 101.1 when you add more extract. However, the OG jumps up significantly giving you an OG in the 1.083 range instead of 1.073. As a result, the OG/IBU ratio changes from a very hoppy 1.33 to a not so hoppy .992. It'll still be a great beer, but there are a couple of ways to still make the recipe you want.

One is that I'm pretty sure Northern Brewer will sell you LME in any quantity you want. Or, you could do half LME and half DME if you wanted to keep the same basic recipe.

DME has more gravity points per pound (it's more concentrated) so it's not a one-for-one substitution. You could do any of the following:

6 pounds LME (added at the end of the boil)
3 pounds DME (added at the beginning)

6 pounds DME (add this at the end of the boil)
3.3 pounds LME (that's one can, at the beginning of the boil)

As far as the difference with the AAUs of the hops, usually that matters. In this case, I ran the numbers and it's a pretty insignificant difference.

Did the stronger version of this, and just tasted the hydro sample. It's pretty close to finished and is now dryhopped. Hydro sample is damn tasty, quite hoppy and I'm looking forward to bottling it next week.

Had a tester of this yesterday and it's pretty well carbed after less than 3 weeks.

Yooper, this is the best beer I've brewed! It's clean and clear, with a great aroma that is both floral and has a hint of caramel. The hop bitterness is definitely there, but it's very well-balanced and it belies the 8% ABV.

I'll be doing this exact recipe again in a couple of weeks, but I'm already looking to tweak it with some Amarillo or Cascade, depending on when Hopsdirect is ready with pelleting their new harvest.

I highly recommend this recipe to anyone looking for a clean, crisp DIPA.

jbambuti said:

Had a tester of this yesterday and it's pretty well carbed after less than 3 weeks.

Yooper, this is the best beer I've brewed! It's clean and clear, with a great aroma that is both floral and has a hint of caramel. The hop bitterness is definitely there, but it's very well-balanced and it belies the 8% ABV.

I'll be doing this exact recipe again in a couple of weeks, but I'm already looking to tweak it with some Amarillo or Cascade, depending on when Hopsdirect is ready with pelleting their new harvest.

I highly recommend this recipe to anyone looking for a clean, crisp DIPA.

Click to expand...

That's great to hear! My AG recipe came out great, too but I can only drink one glass before I have to stop myself, since it came out to nearly 8%! I'm a real lightweight when it comes to high ABV beers, I guess.

I really like centennial, but I think some amarillo in the aroma would be awesome.

this recipe sounds great, can it be made with only DME? i'm finding it very hard to get ingredients in canada, and LME is probably the hardest thing to come by.

kristop said:

this recipe sounds great, can it be made with only DME? i'm finding it very hard to get ingredients in canada, and LME is probably the hardest thing to come by.

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Sure! A total of 8.5 pounds of DME would get right around 1.074.

cool, thanks! i'd assume, add half at the beginning and half at the end?

Do you strain your wort going into the primary? o just leave everything in there until transfer to the secondary?

YooperBrew said:

ok, for a 3 gallon boil, I'd do this:


1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM) Grain 8.70 %
5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract

1.75 oz Magnum [14.00 %] (60 min) Hops 40.1 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (30 min) Hops 12.1 IBU
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (10 min) Hops 5.7 IBU

5 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Liquid Extract [Boil for 5 min]
1.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (1 min) Hops 0.7 IBU

2.00 oz Centennial [9.60 %] (Dry Hop 7 days)

Steep the grains in your boil volume at 155 degrees for 20 minutes. Discard grains, and bring to a boil. Take off the heat, and add 5 lbs extract. Bring to a boil, and add the first hops. Continue the hopping schedule.

With 5 minutes left in the boil, take off the heat and add 5.5 pounds extract. Put back on the heat, stirring well. Add the last hops with one minute left, and then begin chilling the wort.

Dry hop after primary fermention is over.

OG should be 1.073 or so.
IBUs 103+/-

Click to expand...

What yeast did you use on your double IPA?

I always strain my wort going into primary, before adding my topoff water. Better yield coming out of primary.

For this recipe, I actually bumped up the LME to 12 lbs, which gave me an OG of about 1.080 and an ABV just over 8%. I used Pilsen LME. I kept the hops the same. I used 2 packs of US-05.

Digging up a super old post here, but I'm planning my next brew day. I have a few super-noob questions.

Is it possible for me to do a recipe like this if I only have access to a 3 gal SS kettle? I'm really only comfortable boiling 2 gal at a time in there... if I added ~8.5lbs dme, I don't think i'd have enough water, not to mention the fact that I would have to add extra hops to get the bitterness.

I should mention, I do have the brushed aluminum stock pot that came with the turkey fryer that is 30 qts. Could I brew in this thing? The brushed finish scares me, but if anyone says it's good to go, I'll go for it.

Psylocide said:

Digging up a super old post here, but I'm planning my next brew day. I have a few super-noob questions.

Is it possible for me to do a recipe like this if I only have access to a 3 gal SS kettle? I'm really only comfortable boiling 2 gal at a time in there... if I added ~8.5lbs dme, I don't think i'd have enough water, not to mention the fact that I would have to add extra hops to get the bitterness.

I should mention, I do have the brushed aluminum stock pot that came with the turkey fryer that is 30 qts. Could I brew in this thing? The brushed finish scares me, but if anyone says it's good to go, I'll go for it.

Click to expand...

Doing it with a 2 gallon boil is tough. You can add 6+ pounds of DME at flame out, to make more room in your pot, but the problem with a partial boil has to do with making a high IBU (bitterness) beer. Here's why. You can only get a max of about 100 IBUs in any wort, regardless of how many hops you add for bittering, before the wort is saturated with hops oils and the isomerization will stop. That's generally fine, but when you boil only 2 gallons the dilution will mean a lower IBU beer. What I mean is this- let's say you boil 3 gallons (to make my math simple). So, you may have 2.5 gallons of 80 IBU wort at the end. Then, topping up with 2.5 gallons of water (with 0 IBUs) means that the wort now has 40 IBUs.

Doing a partial boil with many other beers is just fine, but not IIPAs or IPAs where you want bitterness of 50 IBUs or more. I hope that makes sense!

You can definitely brew in your aluminum pot- I did it for years and years. The only thing to be aware of is you want to boil water in it first, to build up a gray-ish oxide layer and you'll be all set.

Yooper said:

Doing it with a 2 gallon boil is tough. You can add 6+ pounds of DME at flame out, to make more room in your pot, but the problem with a partial boil has to do with making a high IBU (bitterness) beer. Here's why. You can only get a max of about 100 IBUs in any wort, regardless of how many hops you add for bittering, before the wort is saturated with hops oils and the isomerization will stop. That's generally fine, but when you boil only 2 gallons the dilution will mean a lower IBU beer. What I mean is this- let's say you boil 3 gallons (to make my math simple). So, you may have 2.5 gallons of 80 IBU wort at the end. Then, topping up with 2.5 gallons of water (with 0 IBUs) means that the wort now has 40 IBUs.

Doing a partial boil with many other beers is just fine, but not IIPAs or IPAs where you want bitterness of 50 IBUs or more. I hope that makes sense!

You can definitely brew in your aluminum pot- I did it for years and years. The only thing to be aware of is you want to boil water in it first, to build up a gray-ish oxide layer and you'll be all set.

Click to expand...

It totally makes sense, didn't know you couldn't get up over 100 IBUs in a wort... but I'll take your word for it.

This kettle has been used for frying a turkey before... any risks using the thing? I'd rather go to a full boil TBH... sounds like I should just boil a bunch of water in it and it should be good to go for next time?

Yooperbrew,
I just brewed an APA that turned out being more like an IPA. But I am about to try to brew a DIPA using extract means and am fascinated by this thread. I really want to figure out how to convert all-grain to extract because all of the best recipes for DIPAs are in all-grain. But most of all I want to get the malt bill correct. Can you help me with any kind of conventions regarding conversion between malt/all-grain? I'm going to do a heavy late hop addition DIPA, with a 3.5 gallon boil for now.

Yooperbrew,
I just brewed an APA that turned out being more like an IPA. But I am about to try to brew a DIPA using extract means and am fascinated by this thread. I really want to figure out how to convert all-grain to extract because all of the best recipes for DIPAs are in all-grain. But most of all I want to get the malt bill correct. Can you help me with any kind of conventions regarding conversion between malt/all-grain? I'm going to do a heavy late hop addition DIPA, with a 3.5 gallon boil for now.

Here is a helpful conversion chart.

https://www.jaysbrewing.com/2011/11/17/lazy-chart-for-converting-dme-lme-grain/