stovetop, direct heat mash, siphon sparge, siphon lauter, three tier, inspirational..

Hello fellow brewers, I'd like to share my rig with you, thanks for the inspirations, and I hope to inspire in return:



http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy240/hiddyhophoto/?action=view&current=StovetopAG.jpg

http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy240/hiddyhophoto/?action=view&current=SpargeKettle.jpg

http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy240/hiddyhophoto/?action=view&current=LauterTun.jpg

http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy240/hiddyhophoto/?action=view&current=MashBoilKettle.jpg

http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy240/hiddyhophoto/?action=view&current=Falsebottom1.jpg

http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy240/hiddyhophoto/?action=view&current=Falsebottom2.jpg

http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy240/hiddyhophoto/?action=view&current=FalsebottomDetail.jpg

http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy240/hiddyhophoto/?action=view&current=SpargeSiphon.jpg

Process:

Mash with direct heat on stovetop in 9 gal ss Boil Kettle.

Place in oven for rests.

Transfer mash with ladle to insulated Lauter Tun, 7.5 gal ss stock pot with modified Blichmann false bottom.

Start Lauter siphon, Voluff.

Start Sparge siphon, Sparge 5 gal ss stock pot.

Take Wort outside for the hop boil.


All stainless kettles, Blichmann 10 gal false bottom, 3/8" soft copper tubing through out, 'silver' lead-free solder, lead-free brass fittings, silicone tubing.


10 lbs. floor malted Marris Otter
4.5 gal Strike water
4 gal Sparge
Yields 7 gal 1.042 boiled to 5.5 gal 1.054, first batch.

just curious how you start your siphon?

Start the siphon with lip suction, it's all pre-boil, so no worries.

Man that false bottom looks great, did you build that yourself?

It's a Blichmann false bottom, available separately from their 10 gal MLT.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewi...tles/false-bottom-for-10-gal-boilermaker.html

Yeah, I saw that, I meant the copper tubing ring and soldering, you did a fine job on fitting everything, looks pro.

Thanks! The ring was nearly the proper diameter from the coil, I just massaged it.

I filed the butt joint and test fit the ring snug to the bottom of the 7.5 gal Lauter tun.
I made a scarf insert, and sweat soldered to form the sealed, hollow ring.
I made the tabs, held them in place with picture hanger wire (solder no sticky to steal), and soldered. All from 3/8" copper tubing.

Hex said:

Start the siphon with lip suction, it's all pre-boil, so no worries.

Click to expand...

Maybe I'm missing something, but isn't that going to be near-boiling water you're trying to suck through there?

As long as the tube is above the rim of the kettle, a quick suck starts the siphon.

The sparge and wort never get near the top of the silicon tube as the column balances to equilibrium.

Anyway, silicon tube is fairly translucent, pinches closed easy, and is insulative to the touch.

Once the siphon is started and has reached level in the 'up' silicon tube, the valve is closed, and the tube is layed in.

From that point, flow control is highly tunable with the ball valves--from full flow to just a trickle.

https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/showgallery.php?ppuser=45382

I think it will work as a stove-top RIMS, if I get a pump.

I believe 3/8" copper and stainless tube will be sufficient for the system judging by the flow that I get with a siphon.

Is there a really nice small 120 v pump that has variable flow control for 3/8" max flow?

Or can you just run flow control with a ball valve inline?

I'd get a chugger pump with a ball valve and reduce it to your 3/8" fittings. Though any new stuff you buy, I'd get in 1/2" and adapt it to what you have. That way as you upgrade you'll be at a good size for larger batches, and running 1/2" and 3/8" together doesn't hurt anything.