Modifying a regulator.

I have a pair of spare single gauge (low pressure) regulators I figured I'd modify for portable dispensing. What I wanted to do was add a second gauge (high pressure) for the tank pressure and swap out the brass CO2 inlet for one of the brass paintball fittings.

When I tried to remove the plugs for the high pressure gauge I noticed there was a substance that looks a lot like loctite. I pretty much mangled the corners of the bolts trying to remove the plugs where the high pressure gauge would go. They didn't budge. I also tried to remove the brass stem to the CO2 tank, but I was a lot less aggressive since I didn't want to make a doorstop.

Normally I'd take a torch to a fitting that won't budge, but I have no idea what's inside a regulator, but I suspect the stuff in their has a limited heat tolerance. How have you folks removed the factory installed plugs and fittings from regulaors?

it might be a dumb question, but are the threads on the reg body right-handed or left-handed? You might have just TIGHTENED the stem and plug...

B

No the threads are standard, just the folks building the regulators have a sense of humor and use Loctite on all the connections for thread sealing.

bad coffee said:

it might be a dumb question, but are the threads on the reg body right-handed or left-handed? You might have just TIGHTENED the stem and plug...

B

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One of each. I turned (or tried) the right direction. The plugs won't budge.

Put a wet rag around body of regulator and heat plug briefly to loosen locktite grip, as long as body temperature is not allowed to go over 212 deg for very long you should be okay.

kladue said:

Put a wet rag around body of regulator and heat plug briefly to loosen locktite grip, as long as body temperature is not allowed to go over 212 deg for very long you should be okay.

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Thru the LockTite rep I was told their product be it Red must reach 350 degrees F for 5 to 10 seconds to reach a breakdown temp. By this time your regulators internals are toast being brass conducting heat unless it's a El Cheapo Die Cast made off shore regulator then you have about 20 seconds longer before the heat transfer to the regulators body. First thing is to take the regulator apart this is not rocket science, place in the oven and heat to 350 then secure in padded jaws of your vice and unscrew the fittings.
I've never had a problem doing this especially with my older 30-45 year old brass welding Tig, Mig and O/A regulators. Die cast well why play FOR cheap in th first place is my question when there is a lot of the older higher quality regulators out there. There is a reason why I have collected them the past 40 years be it the penny market or my local welding shops turn in exchange box. I have had free to a couple dollars and rebuild the older Victor regulators, well worth adding the rebuild kit price to a quality regulator.

I'm mostly familiar with IMI Cornelius regulators. They have LEFT HAND THREADS on the High Pressure Ports of their Primairy Regulators. Their Secondary Regulators have RIGHT HAND THREADS. They make it easy to tell...because they cast the letters LH into the brass on the back of the regulator by these ports.

I've taken a bunch of them apart. I take a propane plumbing torch and just heat the fitting I'm trying to remove. Careful not to heat the regulator body, as under the cap there is a rubber gasket and a rubber diaphram which you could damage. Just put the flame to the brass stem that you're trying to remove. The metal will conduct the heat to where the pipe dope is...and it will soften enough that you can break it loose.

Please don't put it in the oven, or whatever. You'll melt the lenses on the gauges, damage the rubber/silicone ? seals and diaphram inside. Not a great idea.

Thanks everyone. I've acquired five regulators over the last year and two are single gauge. One is a cheapo that was part of a defective kegerator. I'll experiment on that one.

I use a line wrench on all fittings they use a thread sealant not locktite as the blue or red are not certified as sealants just thread lockers . A good line wrench and some force will remove it .