FreeM80s
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Hi, I Need barley wine recipe. I need it to use mostly DME, but i want to start using steeping grains so those can be included also. Anyone got anything that I can use?
Need barley wine recipe
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FreeM80s
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bump. please? anyone?
I haven't personally tried this recipe, but it looks like it should be good. They say it in the thread, but the conversion for LME to DME is divide by 1.2, so that makes it round about 10# of DME if you go that way.
For a totally EPIC barleywine, you can search for 09/09/09 and try that one. It was my first ever all-grain batch and is still the best beer I've ever made. Sure, it took a year to be drinkable, but it's a small price to pay. I'm not sure if it would turn out as good converted to extract, but you could give it a try.
terje
For a totally EPIC barleywine, you can search for 09/09/09 and try that one. It was my first ever all-grain batch and is still the best beer I've ever made. Sure, it took a year to be drinkable, but it's a small price to pay. I'm not sure if it would turn out as good converted to extract, but you could give it a try.
terje
chemman14
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yeah they are awesome recipes. Have you made the barley wine yet
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FreeM80s
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No I have not. I just started using steeping grains, but i have a ton of beers in bottles and in a keg so i wanted to make something I could sit on for a while until i can drink what i've already brewed. I have done a couple of high grav beers, but nothing like this. any help/advice/warnings to heed would be greatly appreciated.
chelero
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no, Ive not made the barley wine(s) yet. I haven't done a long-aging beer yet. but I think I might here soon. I'm wondering about aeration with a high grav wort like this. I only use the "shake the $#^@ out of the carboy method". so I may wait to get an aeration stone before tackling a heavy beer like this. jamil's book/show have helped alot, and are highly recommended
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FreeM80s
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How much grain can you steep in a 5 gallon pot? can anyone line me to some how-to's about steeping grain?
For a barleywine, a large, strong, and healthy yeast population is important. Brew a regular pale ale and rack your barleywine to the cake, or at least make a huge starter using the olive oil trick. One drop oil to a quart boiling water, cool and add a teaspoon to your starter. Also add a little yeast nutrient to your fermenter each day for the first few days of primary fermentation. Do not reuse the yeast again, it will be stressed.
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FreeM80s
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I have a carboy full of pale ale that is ready to be racked into a keg. I used wyeast 1056. The only part im hung up on is the steeping grains. how much can i use in a 5 gal pot? will pitching onto an existing yeast cake make it not as important to aerate the beer? or should i still aerate?
chelero
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again, according to jamil's book
"for best flavor results, the ratio of steeping water to grain should be less than 1 gallon per pound. this will help keep the PH below 6 and minimize tannin extraction in alkaline water."
as far as the aeration, I'm not sure. I've only heard that it is much more important in a high grav beer to have a thoroughly aerated wort.
I don't know about steeping grains, I've never done it.
You should aerate if possible, but you can use the olive oil trick instead/or in addition. Shaking the carboy vigorously should suffice. I have a racking cane with some pinholes that aerate the wort while racking. Splashing through a funnel works too.
You should aerate if possible, but you can use the olive oil trick instead/or in addition. Shaking the carboy vigorously should suffice. I have a racking cane with some pinholes that aerate the wort while racking. Splashing through a funnel works too.
Sithdad
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Most of the time grains that don't need to be mashed, (i.e. steeping grains) are used in small quantities to adjust the flavor and color of your beer. Base malts (pale malt, lager malt, wheat malt, etc..) are used to provide the fermentable sugars. For example, I just made a barleywine 2 weeks ago and in my 3.5 gal batch I only used 4 oz of Crystal 60L and 4 oz of Crystal 120L. I did a partial mash so I added my Crystal grains into my mash with the base malt. Then I added my extract to reach my desired OG.
So how much can you use? Well, it really depends on the color or flavor profile you are going for. Because the grains are kilned or roasted their flavors and colors are intensified which means you have need less of them to get what you want out of them. Look at Black Patent malt. It's so roasted that you only need a few ounces in a 5 gallon batch to turn your beer almost pitch black and it leaves a bitter/deeply roasted (slightly burnt flavor). In darker beers it's a desired result but using a pound of this would, I think, make the beer almost undrinkable.
Steeping grains are really easy to use. When you order your grains or when you buy them from your homebrew store ask for a grain bag. Heat up some water (1 gal should be fine) to 155-160F. Place the grains in the water and let them just soak in the water for 30 minutes. Since their starches have been converted into sugars all you are doing is trying to extract them. Think of it as making a big batch of tea. After the 30 minutes lift the bag up and let it drain, but don't squeeze it. Squeezing could extract the bitter tannins. Once that is done you add whatever amount of water you intend to boil and start your normal brewing process. You're going to need between 12 and 15 pounds of pale liquid extract along with any steeping grains you decide to use. This will get you an OG of 1.080-1.100 for a 5 gal batch (depending on the yeast you are looking at 8.5-11% abv).
Hope this helps.
So how much can you use? Well, it really depends on the color or flavor profile you are going for. Because the grains are kilned or roasted their flavors and colors are intensified which means you have need less of them to get what you want out of them. Look at Black Patent malt. It's so roasted that you only need a few ounces in a 5 gallon batch to turn your beer almost pitch black and it leaves a bitter/deeply roasted (slightly burnt flavor). In darker beers it's a desired result but using a pound of this would, I think, make the beer almost undrinkable.
Steeping grains are really easy to use. When you order your grains or when you buy them from your homebrew store ask for a grain bag. Heat up some water (1 gal should be fine) to 155-160F. Place the grains in the water and let them just soak in the water for 30 minutes. Since their starches have been converted into sugars all you are doing is trying to extract them. Think of it as making a big batch of tea. After the 30 minutes lift the bag up and let it drain, but don't squeeze it. Squeezing could extract the bitter tannins. Once that is done you add whatever amount of water you intend to boil and start your normal brewing process. You're going to need between 12 and 15 pounds of pale liquid extract along with any steeping grains you decide to use. This will get you an OG of 1.080-1.100 for a 5 gal batch (depending on the yeast you are looking at 8.5-11% abv).
Hope this helps.
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FreeM80s
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Some of this is info others have already said.
FWIW I used the "shake the $%#! out of the carboy" method for my 999 barleywine. I had some issues with getting full attenuation, but that was largely related to WAY overshooting my OG (1.165+). I pitched onto a cake of Cry Havoc and only got down to 1.055. Then made a gallon starter of WLP099 Super High Gravity and waited for another 4 months or so before it got down to FG of 1.035. That was with nearly daily swirling of the carboy to keep the yeast in suspension. It can be done without an aeration stone, especially if you aren't making a 17.3% beast.
As far as the steeping goes, I figure on using about 2qts of water per pound of grain when mashing (not the same as steeping but still usable for this discussion) as a good ratio. That will probably be a good number for the steep as well. Just top with water to your boil volume after you remove the grains and rinse. The total amout of grain you could theoretically fit in a 5 gallon pot at 2qt/lb is 8.5lbs. (that would be full to the brim of the pot, so back it off to 8lbs to be safe) Like Sithdad said, the amouts of grain you use to steep aren't going to be really huge. They are there mainly for colour or flavour additions, not actual fermentables (though they will add some even if not mashed)
Hope this helps
Terje
Edit: If you're steeping 8 pounds of grain, somethings probably wrong with your recipe. A mini mash would have that much grain, but the steps are somewhat different (but not much more difficult).
FWIW I used the "shake the $%#! out of the carboy" method for my 999 barleywine. I had some issues with getting full attenuation, but that was largely related to WAY overshooting my OG (1.165+). I pitched onto a cake of Cry Havoc and only got down to 1.055. Then made a gallon starter of WLP099 Super High Gravity and waited for another 4 months or so before it got down to FG of 1.035. That was with nearly daily swirling of the carboy to keep the yeast in suspension. It can be done without an aeration stone, especially if you aren't making a 17.3% beast.
As far as the steeping goes, I figure on using about 2qts of water per pound of grain when mashing (not the same as steeping but still usable for this discussion) as a good ratio. That will probably be a good number for the steep as well. Just top with water to your boil volume after you remove the grains and rinse. The total amout of grain you could theoretically fit in a 5 gallon pot at 2qt/lb is 8.5lbs. (that would be full to the brim of the pot, so back it off to 8lbs to be safe) Like Sithdad said, the amouts of grain you use to steep aren't going to be really huge. They are there mainly for colour or flavour additions, not actual fermentables (though they will add some even if not mashed)
Hope this helps
Terje
Edit: If you're steeping 8 pounds of grain, somethings probably wrong with your recipe. A mini mash would have that much grain, but the steps are somewhat different (but not much more difficult).
