FreeM80s
Well-Known Member
Hi, I Need barley wine recipe. I need it to use mostly DME, but i want to start using steeping grains so those can be included also. Anyone got anything that I can use?
check out jamil's "brewing classic styles". great book with extract recipes for all the major styles. there's a couple of barleywines in there. I've made 5 of his recipes so far, and they've all turned out great.
yeah they are awesome recipes. Have you made the barley wine yet
I have a carboy full of pale ale that is ready to be racked into a keg. I used wyeast 1056. The only part im hung up on is the steeping grains. how much can i use in a 5 gal pot? will pitching onto an existing yeast cake make it not as important to aerate the beer? or should i still aerate?For a barleywine, a large, strong, and healthy yeast population is important. Brew a regular pale ale and rack your barleywine to the cake, or at least make a huge starter using the olive oil trick. One drop oil to a quart boiling water, cool and add a teaspoon to your starter. Also add a little yeast nutrient to your fermenter each day for the first few days of primary fermentation. Do not reuse the yeast again, it will be stressed.
The only part im hung up on is the steeping grains. how much can i use in a 5 gal pot? will pitching onto an existing yeast cake make it not as important to aerate the beer? or should i still aerate?
Most of the time grains that don't need to be mashed, (i.e. steeping grains) are used in small quantities to adjust the flavor and color of your beer. Base malts (pale malt, lager malt, wheat malt, etc..) are used to provide the fermentable sugars. For example, I just made a barleywine 2 weeks ago and in my 3.5 gal batch I only used 4 oz of Crystal 60L and 4 oz of Crystal 120L. I did a partial mash so I added my Crystal grains into my mash with the base malt. Then I added my extract to reach my desired OG.
So how much can you use? Well, it really depends on the color or flavor profile you are going for. Because the grains are kilned or roasted their flavors and colors are intensified which means you have need less of them to get what you want out of them. Look at Black Patent malt. It's so roasted that you only need a few ounces in a 5 gallon batch to turn your beer almost pitch black and it leaves a bitter/deeply roasted (slightly burnt flavor). In darker beers it's a desired result but using a pound of this would, I think, make the beer almost undrinkable.
Steeping grains are really easy to use. When you order your grains or when you buy them from your homebrew store ask for a grain bag. Heat up some water (1 gal should be fine) to 155-160F. Place the grains in the water and let them just soak in the water for 30 minutes. Since their starches have been converted into sugars all you are doing is trying to extract them. Think of it as making a big batch of tea. After the 30 minutes lift the bag up and let it drain, but don't squeeze it. Squeezing could extract the bitter tannins. Once that is done you add whatever amount of water you intend to boil and start your normal brewing process. You're going to need between 12 and 15 pounds of pale liquid extract along with any steeping grains you decide to use. This will get you an OG of 1.080-1.100 for a 5 gal batch (depending on the yeast you are looking at 8.5-11% abv).
Hope this helps.
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