Price Check

So how does this price sound for $165 shipped...

• 4 ball lock corny kegs
• 5 sets of new orings
• 4 liquid disconnects MFL
• 4 gas disconnects MFL
• 8 swivel nuts 1/4" - 1/4" barbed
• 50' of 1/4 thickwalled tubing
• 4oz idophor
• keg lube

am I missing anything? (other than c02)

or I can do $180 shipped for rebuilt kegs (new gaskets, poppets, cleaned and sanitized) and everything else in that list....

Yeah, that's pretty good for Canada, especially when you consider the shipping is included.

I would spend the extra $15 and get the rebuilt kegs, though. You would be hard pressed to get new gaskets and poppets for four kegs for that much. Plus, if they come cleaned and sanitized, your time is worth something too. That's a no-brainer.

Where are you getting this from?

BTW: if you need extra o-rings, let me know. I bought a bunch bulk and will sell them to you at cost plus the price of a couple stamps to mail them to you. O-ring sets are surprisingly expensive in Canada, if you can find them.

FlyGuy said:

Yeah, that's pretty good for Canada, especially when you consider the shipping is included.

I would spend the extra $15 and get the rebuilt kegs, though. You would be hard pressed to get new gaskets and poppets for four kegs for that much. Plus, if they come cleaned and sanitized, your time is worth something too. That's a no-brainer.

Where are you getting this from?

BTW: if you need extra o-rings, let me know. I bought a bunch bulk and will sell them to you at cost plus the price of a couple stamps to mail them to you. O-ring sets are surprisingly expensive in Canada, if you can find them.

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brewersdiscount.com but I cheated FlyGuy, I'm having it shipped to the GF across the border, then when I go to visit her I'll bring it back across the border myself. Saves me a ton of money...

And if I do opt for the rebuilt kegs (which is what I'm leaning towards), I might take you up on the o-ring offer just so I have a few around the house...

And hey, if you see anything on that site that you want, I can tack it on to my order then ship it to you when I get back across the border...let me know.

Good idea. Its always nice to have American friends!

And just PM me if you need o-rings.

Thanks for the offer regarding the brewersdiscount order. At the moment, I think I have what I need. But thanks - that was very nice of you!

Cheers!

FlyGuy said:

Good idea. Its always nice to have American friends!

And just PM me if you need o-rings.

Thanks for the offer regarding the brewersdiscount order. At the moment, I think I have what I need. But thanks - that was very nice of you!

Cheers!

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The swivel nuts and QDs in my order are good, yes?

Yep, that's fine I guess. I have barbed QDs myself, but it is just personal choice.

What are you using for a gas regulator? And, what are you using for a manifold? Manifolds will often have barbed fittings instead of flared fittings. Do you have line and fittings to go from the regulator to the manifold?

Should have asked that earlier.

FlyGuy said:

Yep, that's fine I guess. I have barbed QDs myself, but it is just personal choice.

What are you using for a gas regulator? And, what are you using for a manifold? Manifolds will often have barbed fittings instead of flared fittings. Do you have line and fittings to go from the regulator to the manifold?

Should have asked that earlier.

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Well actually I'm hoping to pick up a tank + reg locally, but if that fails I'll get a dual gauge regulator... and I was thinking about this manifold: I plan on two taps for my fridge, so that 3-way will give me one extgra for carbing or whatever else....

But even if the manifold has barbed fittings that shouldn't matter with my flared setup, right? I'd just put the hose over the bard and clamp it down, or do I have this all wrong?

If that's the case, then I would save a few bucks and only get 3 sets of disconnects and swivel nuts. I would be tempted to just get the barbed ones, too -- but that is just my preference.

And yes, just put your hose over the barbs on the manifold and clamp. Nothing special required.

FlyGuy said:

If that's the case, then I would save a few bucks and only get 3 sets of disconnects and swivel nuts. I would be tempted to just get the barbed ones, too -- but that is just my preference.

And yes, just put your hose over the barbs on the manifold and clamp. Nothing special required.

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Ah I see what you mean now: 3-way manifold means I'll only ever be using 3 kegs at one time.... think I should go with a 4-way?

And with barbed disconnects do I just put the hose over and clamp it down? If that's the case then I wouldn't need to get the swivel nuts either....

And this might be a dumb question, but say I have 2 tapped kegs on the manifold and a third carbing....once that third one is carbed would there be a problem removing that keg (disconnects and all) and moving the disconnects to the fourth keg to carb that? Hope that makes sense....

If you can fit all three kegs in your fridge or freezer, then a 4-way is possible. But if you only have two taps, will you really need it?

And you are right -- if you get the barbed disconnects, you won't need the swivel nuts. I prefer hose to barb - easier, cheaper, and less to go wrong.

And yes, once a keg is carbed, you can disconnect it. You can even serve from it for a while, but it will eventually lose pressure of course.

i am personally a big fan of the flared connectors. it just makes it so much easier to clean things, to switch things around (i have around 10 pin lock, and 25 ball lock, so i may be using one or the other). if i had just used the barbed, i would be 'stuck' using just one type of keg. i can also make different lengths if i need it, and move things around as i like. my manifold is a flared manifold as well, and all my connections from the regulator are flared, or i've converted to flare.

but that's just me. if you are worried about funds, and don't think you will buy different kegs, and will just replace tubing instead of cleaning it a lot, then save yourself some money for something else and go with the barbed!

it sounds like you are well on your way though. let us know how things turn out!

Flyguy, I'm not sure if you are the one who posted about replacement o-rings in another thread for corny kegs from McMaster Carr but if that was you think you could post the serial #'s again..? I am about to receive 2 kegs myself and I would like to change all o-rings before using but I'm not sure of style/diameters and it seemed cheaper to got that route rather than kits for each keg.

I remember good prices and most of the o-rings were in bulk quantity from MC.

Thanks.

Edit: sorry for the threadjack!

You might want to see if you can get the 3/16" tubing as well. Right now you're in for a roll of 1/4" and unless you're doing a really long run you're going to want the other stuff!

clayof2day said:

You might want to see if you can get the 3/16" tubing as well. Right now you're in for a roll of 1/4" and unless you're doing a really long run you're going to want the other stuff!

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I don't get it... I think all of my connection thus far are 1/4"....

Chillbrook said:

I don't get it... I think all of my connection thus far are 1/4"....

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3/16" hose will fit on those connections if you warm them up a bit in some very hot water. No problem. The idea, though, is that you need less 3/16" hose to balance your system. The line out of the keg to your tap has to be long enough to balance the pressure inside the keg, or you will get lots of foam on pouring. Here is a good link:

http://hbd.org/clubs/franklin/public_html/docs/balance.html

You can get buy with 1/4" tubing, but because of the increased diameter and increased ease of flow, you need a longer length of it coiled inside your fridge, that's all. It's just personal choice. I actually use 3/16" lines to my taps, but I know guys that use 1/4".

FlyGuy said:

3/16" hose will fit on those connections if you warm them up a bit in some very hot water. No problem. The idea, though, is that you need less 3/16" hose to balance your system. The line out of the keg to your tap has to be long enough to balance the pressure inside the keg, or you will get lots of foam on pouring. Here is a good link:

http://hbd.org/clubs/franklin/public_html/docs/balance.html

You can get buy with 1/4" tubing, but because of the increased diameter and increased ease of flow, you need a longer length of it coiled inside your fridge, that's all. It's just personal choice. I actually use 3/16" lines to my taps, but I know guys that use 1/4".

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Oh wow, I didn't realize that 1/4" tubing only offered so little resistance - that's a lot of tubing....

Ok so I'll run 3/16" hose for the beer lines; good to know they will fit the 1/4" connection, although now I'll probably just get the 3/16" barbed disconnects.

You think 20' of 3/16" is good for a two tap system? Do you change hoses with different beer styles?

You'll probably end up needing about 5-6' of 3/16" per tap.

gnef said:

http://www.brewboard.com/index.php?showtopic=34669

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Thanks! Just what I needed.

Got 2 kegs in the mail today....:rockin:

no problem. enjoy kegging!