240V HLT with PID- Need Help!!!!

I have been searching the forums for awhile now for some information on how to wire up my HLT. I have a keg that I am using for the vessel and I purchased a PID and SSR (40amp) from Aubern. After looking at their diagram in the instructions I created my own wiring diagram for my system, but something is wrong. I think it has to do with my switches, but I am not sure and could use some help or direction. Every time I fire it up it blows my breakers. Obviously, its wired wrong here. I have wired the PID directly to the 2 live wires on the 240V (10 gauge, 3 wire) and it works fine. As soon as I add that first switch, it fails. The two 30amp switches in the diagram are 30amp light switches that the electrical store told me to use. Could this be the problem?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Can you post a manufacturer & model number for the switch? Then maybe we can see if it's wired correctly. Did you verify the switch operation with an ohmmeter prior to install?

Thanks so much for your reply. The switch is a Levitron 30A 120V/277V AC and has a number on it that says 1F21E2. I threw the box away so unfortunately I do not have a specific model number on it. Its looks just like a standard light switch with 2 poles on each side and a single ground connection . I tried to illustrate it as best I could on the diagram.

I have not used an ohmmeter on the switch.

Hmmm.... I don't think a 30A switch on both sides of the SSR is really necessary, but I suppose you have a reason.

I think what you need are DPST (double-pole, single-throw) switches which would have 4 terminals as pictured in your drawing. If they're for motor use, then the terminals would probably be labeled L1, L2 & T1, T2.

If, however, you were sold "4-way switches" which are used to control a circuit from 3 or more locations, then the internal switching configuration is different, but they look similar from the outside. Those terminals may be labeled IN, IN & OUT, OUT but I'm not sure - it's been awhile since I've seen one. If they are of these type, then they won't work for this application.

Can you read any such designations on the switches near the terminals?

It looks to me like you have each leg of the 240 going through the switched side of the SSR (3 & 4). That is not right. You only switch 1 leg. i.e. the solid black line goes in on 3 and out on 4.

So the black line runs from your source to your switch to the SSR then out the SSR to your element outlet.

Then the gray line would run from your source to your switch to the element outlet.

I also think the wiring for the switches is not right. Would need what type they are in order to figure out how to wire it correctly. The number 1F21E2 doesn't return anything in google.

You really need to ohm out the switch to find out what's it's doing.

I am using one switch as a master switch for the entire unit and one to turn off just the heating element, keeping the PID on to monitor temperatures. I am thinking that it might not be necessary so maybe I should just remove that problem. I mean, if I am sparging with the HLT then I need to be able to monitor and maintain the temp so having a switch to turn off the power supply is probably not needed. Once I am done I can just unplug the power and be done. I guess I made things a little difficult here. I just didnt want to run the risk of having the element dry on while I am draining from the HLT during sparing.

Here is a link to the switches that I purchased.
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=3032-2L&section=41455&minisite=10251

Ok, good - the link posted is the correct type of switch. When the switches closes, it should complete a circuit between screws of like colors, ie silver to silver, brass to brass. One or both of the brass screws may be black. This can easily be verified with an ohmmeter or a continuity tester. If this is the case, then you will probably need to rewire and you switches rotated 90 degrees on your drawing.

In this sketch, I left both of your switches in place but one 30A switch will serve to disconnect the element if you want to still monitor temps with the PID. A small, light duty switch can be used if you want to switch power only to the PID. I think the fewer connections in the high current path, the better.

stlbeer said:

It looks to me like you have each leg of the 240 going through the switched side of the SSR (3 & 4). That is not right. You only switch 1 leg. i.e. the solid black line goes in on 3 and out on 4.

So the black line runs from your source to your switch to the SSR then out the SSR to your element outlet.

Then the gray line would run from your source to your switch to the element outlet.

I also think the wiring for the switches is not right. Would need what type they are in order to figure out how to wire it correctly. The number 1F21E2 doesn't return anything in google.

You really need to ohm out the switch to find out what's it's doing.

Click to expand...

Yes, your SSR should only switch one hot leg of your 240V, with both legs going through your double pole switches.

You guys are awesome.

Junkster, I think you are right in how you have the switches wired. When I was thinking about it last night, the only way for the breakers to be breaking the way they are is if they are wired wrong. Its like I touched the hot wires together so I am not passing them correctly through the switches. I am going to wire it up today and see if that solves the problem.

Stlbeer and jeffmeh, The SSR makes more since to me now. Legs three and four are supplying power to the SSR and legs 1 and 2 and acting as a switch through one leg of the 240.

Thanks guys. I am going to try this today.

Please report back here with your results.... Good luck!

Well, I got it to fire up. I set some of the settings then fired on the element. I heard it turn on and the temp rose a degree, then..... It all shut off. No blown breaker, nothing really noticeable. It just went black. I am going to check all the wiring again and see if I can get the pid to turn on by itself. I hope the stress of the switches not being wired correctly didn't blow out the pid, but I doubt current even reached it the way I had it wired.

Back to step one! It was sweet to see it all working in that moment of glory

Well, I suppose that's some progress. If you have a meter (even a cheap one) and can methodically go through it one step at a time, you should be able to narrow it down quickly. If not, maybe get someone to assist you and BE CAREFUL!

Looks to be working great. I had a loose wire where I split the main two wires after my master switch. I added a longer wire and ensured a better connection. Can't wait to do a mash!!

Thanks for all your help!!!!!

Glad that it worked out..... Cheers!