Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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tektonjp said:
How long does it take from mashing to having a rolling boil?
Also, 60 minute mash? 60 boil? How does the time break down?
Thanks.
Click to expand...


The 20 liter heats water at about 1C/minute.

Assuming your tap water is 10 degrees and a 60 minute mash with 60min. boil:

preparation/setup 15min
Heating strike water 55min
mashing 60min
heating to mashout 15min
sparge/rinse 15min
Heating to boil 12min
Boiling 60min
cooling 30min
transferring wort/cleanup 30min

Add 10 minutes and you have 5 hours.
I mash for longer and boil for 90 minutes so 6+ hours all in all.
 
Mine also ends up at about 5 hours on any unit I brew on.

When I first started using the BM, it took me about seven hours. But once I got used to doing everything and used a single infusion mash, it ended up at about five hours or so each time.

You cannot beat this unit for the simplicity of your brew day.
 
I started this morning just after 9 in a leisurely manner drinking coffee, measuring hops etc, pitched the yeast 3.15pm. While mashing I had to plow the snow. If the brew day took any less time it would be less time to have fun - I personally want to tinker and sanitise, update the recipe in BS on the fly etc, do all kinds of stuff that I enjoy. I even had time to rehydrate while boiling and I've never done that before (4.50pm and T-58 is alive and well...). Naturally I sanitise and clean on the fly too, so after pitching there almost nowt to do. It's down to time management a lot and I am sure that if I was a woman I would be able to multitask better and be quicker. But as I said, I don't want to have the brew day done too quickly.
 
Yambor44 said:
Mine also ends up at about 5 hours on any unit I brew on.

When I first started using the BM, it took me about seven hours. But once I got used to doing everything and used a single infusion mash, it ended up at about five hours or so each time.

You cannot beat this unit for the simplicity of your brew day.
Click to expand...

Ditto. Down from 7-8 hours to a 5 hours now.

Using preheated water from tap and adding second coil to use ice for immersion chiller really helped too.
 
Thanks for the comments Yambor and Beefeater.

As far as brew day time- I am also at about 5 hours, sometimes less, even with a 90 minute boil.

I've brewed on B3, SABCO, Gott coolers, regular coolers, and various other custom home systems. You won't get faster than the Speidel unless you brew with extract. IMHO.

Cheers!
 
I too think it will be difficult to find an all-grain setup that's faster from start to finish.

If I really wanted to speed up my brewday the only thing I could do is mash in with water from my hot water tap. That would shave off allmost an hour now in the winter when my water is five C. But I don't trust my old water heater to deliver good tasting water. Could use a heat stick but that's another bit of kit and I can't be bothered. Would probably blow a fuse too with an additional 2000W draw in my kitchen.
 
Hey all,

Been following this thread for some time and am ready to make the all grain braumeister plunge. Looking to get the 50L model.

Is the consensus still to purchase from the fella at morebeer4u.com over morebeer.com?

It's a significant question for me as I live in the California bay area and the 9%+ tax hit is significant at this price point.

Also general question to those brewing batches over 5 gallons...what are you fermenting in?

Thanks in advance!
 
I'm looking at ordering the 50l Braumeister in the next 4-5 months and have a question about mash efficiency when brewing with the Brumeister. I've now brewed 7 AG batches with a simple cooler mash tun and 25 litre boil kettle setup, and my mash efficiency has ranged between 65 - 78%. Even when i brewed two identical batches with the exact same grain bill, temps, sparge, chrush etc. I still got a 7% difference (78 VS 71%). So my question is, what range of efficiency can I expect with the BM, and could the efficiency possibly be more consistent when brewing the same recipe multiple times?

Just hoping for better accuracy hitting target OG with the BM, and of course the ability of managing mash temperatures is the biggest reason why
I just have to have this awesome machine. Don't want to end up with no more 5 ABV IPAs or 7 ABV Pale Ales. Well I guess you could always add water to lower gravity but hey, who does that?? :D

Cheers!
 
I crush my own grains, do small sparge and use 5.2 Ph "supercharger" and got around 80% first two brews.
Later brew I messed up with adding too much extra water so efficiency was off. (not to mention I was in a rush and dumped part of the grains in without placing bottom filter in malt pipe:drunk::( )
Also can't gauge last few brews where I added honey/sugar.
 
I haven't calculated my efficiency, mostly because the concept is very confusing. Instead I aim to hit my OG, brew a beer I like to drink ie tastes good and get at least 20 litres into the FV. I take the relaxed Belgian approach even though I brew mostly English ales...;)
 
beradthefish said:
Here are some photos of my setup, some ideas stolen from here, some are my own. Enjoy, please advise if you have trouble viewing. I gave up on trying to embed the URLs here in this post so here's the link:

https://picasaweb.google.com/bradfo...authkey=Gv1sRgCJiJpPriguiE6gE&feat=directlink
Click to expand...

Some have been asking how I modified my output. First a 3/4" male x 1/2 female NPT adapter which reduces the Speidel's port. You can get one from Home Depot in brass (which I have). I'm going to order one of these in stainless which I prefer. I'm not 100% sure the one I linked is the right size so I'll update when I receive it.

I couldn't find one of these in either stainless or otherwise unfortunately.

So then you'll need one of these to connect the 3/4 x 1/2 to a ball valve and potentially another one to it up the way I did.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
bcryan said:
Share your recipe
Click to expand...

Is this directed to me? Did you want the recipe for the three different beers or the tech info? ( mill gap width, sparge temp/size)

BTW to solve the slow flow out of the Braumeister, I've found that attaching a piece of tubing creates better suction (via gravity) and can fully drain the vessel if dip tube installed.

Has anyone found a less expensive copper hood for the 50L? Or anyone interested in selling theirs off?
 
i've done four batches so far. after each batch pumps were taken off and cleaned. since this happened today i've flushed liked crazy. not sure what else to do beside make sure theres no grain in there. weird that it would be doing this all of a sudden after working flawlessly for four batches.
 
When you guys adjust your water profile by adding minerals I assume you calculate and treat all of the water used.

So if you are making a Munich water profile you treat all of the water as though it were mash water, ignoring sparge or other water elements used in conventional brewing?

Does the thinness of the mash play into making adjustments of this profile as used with the Braumeister?
 
bcryan said:
Share your recipe
Click to expand...

Here's a Saison I brewed today in prep for spring. (got tons of dark beers resting, strangely the clone recipe if off for Saison style but read it got good taste reviews. White wine soaked oak raised my interest)
Based off pre-boil gravity and water level BeerSmith is saying I hit 81.2% efficiency. Ended up with SG as 1.051, clone 4.3% alcohol seemed low so didn't adjust.
Mash pH 5.1

Recipe: Lil Opal Clone TYPE: All Grain
Style: Saison
---RECIPE SPECIFICATIONS-----------------------------------------------
SRM: 3.6 SRM SRM RANGE: 5.0-14.0 SRM
IBU: 15.3 IBUs IBU RANGE: 20.0-35.0 IBUs
OG: 1.048 SG OG RANGE: 1.048-1.065 SG
FG: 1.016 SG FG RANGE: 1.002-1.012 SG
BU:GU: 0.319 Calories: 475.1 kcal/l Est ABV: 4.3 %
EE%: 72.00 % Batch: 37.85 l Boil: 44.29 l BT: 70 Mins

---WATER CHEMISTRY ADDITIONS----------------

Amt Name Type # %/IBU
53.00 l Santa Clara, CA Water 1 -
4.00 g Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins Water Agent 2 -
3.00 g Calcium Chloride (Mash 60.0 mins) Water Agent 3 -

Amt Name Type # %/IBU
1 lbs Rice Hulls (0.0 SRM) Adjunct 4 5.2 %
8 lbs Pilsner (2 Row) Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 5 41.7 %
4 lbs 6.4 oz Wheat, Torrified (1.7 SRM) Grain 7 22.9 %
4 lbs 6.4 oz Wheat Malt, Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 6 22.9 %
1 lbs Acid Malt (3.0 SRM) Grain 8 5.2 %
6.4 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 9 2.1 %

Total Grain Weight: 19 lbs 3.2 oz Total Hops: 1.50 oz oz.
---MASH PROCESS------MASH PH:5.10 ------
>>>>>>>>>>-ADD WATER CHEMICALS BEFORE GRAINS!!<<<<<<<
Name Description Step Temperat Step Time
Protein Rest Add 53 l of water 55.0 C 20 min
Saccharification1 63.0 C 30 min
Saccharification2 69.0 C 15 min
Mash Out 76.0 C 10 min

---SPARGE PROCESS---
>>>>>>>>>>-RECYCLE FIRST RUNNINGS & VERIFY GRAIN/MLT TEMPS: 22.2 C/22.2 C
Remove grains, and prepare to boil wort
---BOIL PROCESS-----------------------------
Est Pre_Boil Gravity: 1.042 SG Est OG: 1.048 SG
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
1.00 oz Mt. Hood [5.50 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 10 11.1 IBUs
0.50 oz Mt. Hood [5.50 %] - Boil 30.0 min Hop 11 4.3 IBUs

---FERM PROCESS-----------------------------
Primary Start: 1/26/2012 - 14.00 Days at 19.4 C
Secondary Start: 2/9/2012 - 10.00 Days at 18.3 C
Style Carb Range: 2.30-2.90 Vols
Bottling Date: 2/9/2012 with 2.3 Volumes CO2:
---NOTES------------------------------------
Oxygenate w/ bottled O2
2oz French Oak cubes soaked in white wine into primary
WL Saison I yeast in .9L starter (stirplate)
Click to expand...

Did a Schwarbier, Scotch Ale and Oaked Ale all at 80-82% efficiency.
 
beradthefish said:
Here are some photos of my setup, some ideas stolen from here, some are my own. Enjoy, please advise if you have trouble viewing. I gave up on trying to embed the URLs here in this post so here's the link:

https://picasaweb.google.com/bradfo...authkey=Gv1sRgCJiJpPriguiE6gE&feat=directlink
Click to expand...

I have not followed the link for a while..
Great setup Berad!
2 questions:
1. how effective is the counterflow chiller you use ?
I also recirculate/whirlpool by using March pump
I am using Duda plate chiller , but am concerned about long term use - I have to spend good 15 mins to flush all the junk out - especially dark grain pieces - after each use.
your chiller sure looks easy to clean !

2. are you concerned about hot side oxidation with the wort flowing down from the hop back intake pipe ?

BTW - BIG SUCCES WITH BM !!!
I have entered first competition with it - the Upper Mississipi Mash Out - my beers took one 1st and 2 2nd places !

Bach
 
1. It's almost as effective as a plate chiller, with fewer places for gunk to build up in my opinion. Just as I did with the plate chiller I used to have, I recirculate a detergent solution and back flush. Never had issues with either.

2. I fill the hopback slowly, then I increase as it gets fuller so the wort doesn't really have far to fall. Then I adjust the output for good equilibrium. I'm not really concerned about aeration.
 
bach said:
I have not followed the link for a while..
...
BTW - BIG SUCCES WITH BM !!!
I have entered first competition with it - the Upper Mississipi Mash Out - my beers took one 1st and 2 2nd places !

Bach
Click to expand...

Congrats! And still many continue to be sceptical about BM's...HAHA to them!:rockin:
 
Hi BM'ers! We gave up our single tier Brutus system for a BM and have never been happier! We are creating great beers with this system. Our IPA turned out great and is in the secondary for some dry hop love! I posted the brew day pics, along with much BM loving on our site: http://nolimitbrewing.com

We would appreciate your BM support, please click "like" on our Facebook link!
 
I have read this in several posts. To install the pick up tube, etc
I actually think that the system works better without one.

I use whirlpool at the end of the boil. The circuit goes: spigot->March pump-> back to kettle by curved copper tube with tangential wort flow.
Then I chill by turning on my counterflow plate chiller, which is in series with March pump.
When chilled, I let the wort stand for ~1h.
I get perect cold break/trub material in the center and on the bottom of BM.

Then I drain down to the spigot level and then carefully tilt the unit.
By doing that I can drain most of the clear wort.
If I used the pickup tube I would get more trub, because the trub settles down by gravity.
 
I also tilt in the end. Because I use the speisen-method to carbonate, I can then collect all the trubby wort on the bottom, filter the wort using kitchen towel etc, and later boil the filtered wort to sanitise before I use it to carbonate. No waste of precious wort.

Mind you, I have to 20L unit. 50L might be too heavy to tilt?
 
Just got my 20L in the mail! She's a beauty!!

Anyway, I want to fashion a dip tube. The engineering part of my brain does not work. I notice the posts saying the people are making them, just not the directions on how to...=)

What have you done and what parts have you used to fashion one that fits in the reduced diameter hole?

I would prefer something thats simple and functional.....would prefer not to have to buy a torch but will do so if necessary.

Thanks
 
Brewbush, there is a detailed post on this thread somewhere. I remember a picture with exact parts, some kind of silicone tubing.

Congrats! Remember, you don't need a dip tube to brew - 20L is light enough to tilt forwards, just remember to have it on the edge of a table so you don't put any weight on the control unit ie the control unit is over the edge of the table when you tilt the unit.
 
I am not that good at calculating efficiency but I reckon I had a good one today:

20L BM: 25L into the meister => water level is 1cm below the center rod top mark. 4.5kg of grain (pale ale, crystal, black). Sparged with 6 litres, and collected about 1 litre of wort from the bucket where the malt pipe was resting - added it to the boil.

My BeerSmith2 set up is for 20L of finished wort, end of the boil I had 23L going into the FV + 1.5L into the freezer for Speisen.

24.5L in total and my target was 1049 OG as per beersmith (20 litre finished wort) and I hit 1047.

So I missed OG by 2 points and gained 4.5L into the FV - will prolly bottle 23.5L------

You do the math! Gotta love Speidel BM!:rockin::tank:
 
Hello people,

I am interested in to perform a decoction step with my BM 50L. Somebody have tried it? What is the best way to do it? Single step mash + decoction or multistep mash + decoction?
 
bach said:
Berad,
what is the size of the thread on the BM output - it is metric right ? 25mm or something ?
Click to expand...

.75" FPT. When I get home I'll post some options for fittings. Another gentleman on this forum and myself have found some good but not so easy to find parts.
 
This is my schedule for lagers: It is Step infusion combined with double decoction
1.mash in 55C 15 min
2.63C 40 min
take about 30% thick mash out, close the malt pipe and let the 63C step continue
heat the decoction to 69C over 10 mins, keep at 69C 10 min, then heat
to 100C and boil till 20min
pause the BM
open malt pipe
return decoction there
mix
remove again about 30%
close malt pipe,
3. step to 69C for 25min
heat the decoction to 69C and keep there for 10 min
then heat to 100C and boil till the end of 69C step
pause BM
open malt pipe
return the decoction there and mix
close malt pipe
heat to 76C mashout and keep there for 15 mins
lift the malt pipe drain +/- sparge
 
I can't believe I've read nearly every page in this thread. Folks I've made my decision. The money is in. I'm ordering the Braumeister 50L unit. Excited as hell.
 
I know morebeer sells these but now I can't find the affiliate site that sold them and not going back through the 120+ pages to find the guy who sells them for the site lol. Also found this site now has them,

http://www.homebrewing.com/speidel.php

Question for the owners. Before you purchased one were most of you doing all grain on 5 gallon size or 10? I'm asking because I am all extract right now, still saving the pennies to purchase one of these, but I do a lot of bigger beers (full boil) and am wondering if the 50L is worth it or is the 20L fine for someone who has always done 5 gallons and has no interest in doing larger batches.
The only reason I would get the 50L is for the larger beers. If I remember right in the earlier post one of the issues was doing big beers and that even small ones you still have to top off at the end, does this still hold true?

Thanks!
 
Munch671 said:
am wondering if the 50L is worth it or is the 20L fine for someone who has always done 5 gallons and has no interest in doing larger batches.

The only reason I would get the 50L is for the larger beers. If I remember right in the earlier post one of the issues was doing big beers and that even small ones you still have to top off at the end, does this still hold true?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you will only ever be brewing 5gl batchs then the 20L is appropriate.
The 50L has the same gravity restrictions as the 20L.
Those brewers looking to produce higher gravity beers are either performing a reiterated mash, are using DME/LME to reach their desired OG, or just make a smaller batch volume.
Topping off is only necessary if you messed up your numbers.
 

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