Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

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Measured my mills gap today by stacking paper and inserting the stack until it was tight. Then used calipers to measure the stack.

1.4mm or 0.055"

I think I'll tighten it a liiitle bit before the next brew.

That's quite a bit bigger than the gap I'm using. What kind of efficiency are you getting?
 
That's quite a bit bigger than the gap I'm using. What kind of efficiency are you getting?

Got 86% "efficiency into boiler" on the last brew, the only with that setting.
Got 92% on the brew before with a significantly tighter setting. Also got some fountaining on that one, that's why I opened the gap a bit.

Both these brews were low gravity. 4.5 and 4.7 kg malt and 29 liters preboil.
 
So Christmas came early today - My new 50l braumeister arrived.
After a lot of thought i finally decided to go with the 50l and the 20l malt pipe accessory as an extra. I hope that I wont need to make an investment like this for a very long time again - So I went with the 50L model in the end so that I would have no regrets in the future.

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It was very well packaged and not damaged in any way.

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:D

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It came with the new mesh filters. Although these will help a lot i think it wont be a perfect solution either. There is still a slight gap around the edges and the mesh tends to curve depending on the way you put it down. I would think after a few years of using them they would need to be replaced - maybe not. However they are certainly a great improvement on the original type supplied.

The unit came with the newer black pumps installed (this change was mentioned in a previous thread). I forgot to grab a picture of them.

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my newly adopted German family

I ordered directly from Speidel as I live in Ireland. It took about 2.5 weeks from receipt of payment to when the order was finally shipped.
I found the guys at Speidel very helpful.

So I am hoping to have a brew day tomorrow. Like a lot of others I will start with the Wheat beer listed in the Speidel manual. Just to break me in. I will let you know how it went.
 
@ BierFest

Congrats on your new equipment, thats an ideal setup. I would have bought the 50L if space wasn't a concern.

Like a lot of others I will start with the Wheat beer listed in the Speidel manual. Just to break me in. I will let you know how it went.

The 2 versions (different mash schedules) of that I made have been bottled for a month and are ready. I think they turned out very well for the first couple of brews on the Braumeister.

Milling the grain coarse is a requirement when that much wheat is being used, there should be very little flour or small bits. I find that with the barley grains I can grind finer and still maintain a decent flow. My overall effeciency has dropped to around 65% on the mostly wheat beers and around 72% for the 2 Row or pale beers.

Happy brewing, let us know how it goes.
 
So I had my first brewday with the braumeister on Christmas eve. It was definitely the most stress free brew day I have had. It removes all the harder work from a brewday but still leaves the enjoyable parts.
The only part of the brewday that involved a lot of work is the cleanup. The 50l unit is large so you need a lot of space to lift it, turn it upside down etc.

With the new mesh filters I did not experience any grain escaping from the malt pipe.
I crushed my grain with the default settings on the Barley crusher. I was using 49% pilsner malt, 49% wheat malt and I did not experience any of the wort fountains reported by others.

The pumps are really easy to clean. You simply unscrew the pump housing clean and replace. It is very simple to do and I will be doing this every time I brew.

I use leaf hops when brewing - however I think in future I will use some sort of hop bag (or something similar) to hold the hops. This should make clean up even faster.

As I was brewing 20L (using the 20l maltpipe) in the 50l unit i did not experience the outlet tap getting blocked when poring to the fermenter. Also I was able to remove nearly all of the liquid from the unit into the fermenter with getting lots of hops etc in the fermenter.

I think you need to do a few brews with the machine to fine tune your understanding of it and to get all of your calculations etc correct. However it is a really powerful tool and I know Im going to have lots of great brews with it.

I learned two valuable lessons from what otherwise might have been a very successful brew day:

  • I bought the 50l unit. I am currently brewing with the 20l malt pipe.


    • The instruction manual recommends filling the braumeister with 23l of water

    • All went fine until the pumps turned on. There was not then enough water in the unit to cover the outer heating elements.

    • The residue from the grain water combination which had covered the heating elements before the boil then started to heat on the elements and created a burning smell

    • I had to bring the total mashing water volume to 26/27l of water to completely cover the elements.

    • does anybody else brew with the 20l malt pipe in the 50 unit and if so do you find this a problem - or was it something I did wrong?

  • I did my boil with the lid completely removed from the unit. I also turned the boil temperature up to 101 degrees celcius. However this resulted in a huge boil-off rate which only left me with 15l of wort in my fermenter. Next time I think I will keep the temperature at 100 degrees and keep the lid partially over the unit. The reason I turned to 101 degrees was that I read that many people had problems getting a proper boil going at 100 degrees. However after thinking about it afterwards i realised that most people reported this problem on the 20l unit - the 50l unit contains a lot more heating elements and so should not struggle to get a boil going - pity i didn't think of this before my boil. :eek:

I intend to do another brew over the next few days (a Nogne porter clone). I will take on board the lessons learned from brew no.1 and let you know how brew no.2 goes.
 
Happy New Year! What better way to bring in the New Year then to brew a New Belgian La Folie Clone on the Braumiester?! With a 12-18 month fermentation schedule, I thought it was fitting to make this an end of year tradition. I have posted the recipe and pics of the brew day to my blog: http://nolimitbrewing.wordpress.com

I will update this thread regularly with updates. Cheers!
 
La Folie Clone fermentation has started! The Sacc yeast in the Roselare pack if taking off. The Krausen looks different though, somewhat like soda fizz.


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That hop spider looks sweet!

I agree - Definitely would speed up cleanup with the braumeister. I brewed a second batch with mine the other day - went much better than the first day. Thought about using hop bags but didn't in the end. However I do like this solution.
1. Was it easy to build?
2. Do you have any negatives about using the hop spider solution?
 
BierFest said:
I agree - Definitely would speed up cleanup with the braumeister. I brewed a second batch with mine the other day - went much better than the first day. Thought about using hop bags but didn't in the end. However I do like this solution.
1. Was it easy to build?
2. Do you have any negatives about using the hop spider solution?

The build was pretty simple. Total cost from Homedepot was approx $15 in parts. I really havent had any negative experiences. I use whole and pellet hops. The bag is large enough to accept a considerable amount of hops without tight compaction.
 
I just brewed my first batch on my new Braumeister this past Saturday. It went well except for some leakage in the hose connections to my plate chiller. I would really like to set up a quick disconnect system. Has anyone done this with the Braumeister? What can I use and how can I connect the small Braumeister Spigot to my 1/2" npt plate chiller. Thanks for the help.

Dan
 
DrBeer said:
I just brewed my first batch on my new Braumeister this past Saturday. It went well except for some leakage in the hose connections to my plate chiller. I would really like to set up a quick disconnect system. Has anyone done this with the Braumeister? What can I use and how can I connect the small Braumeister Spigot to my 1/2" npt plate chiller. Thanks for the help.

Dan

What about replacing the spigot with a more traditional ball valve? My understanding from talking with Speidel is that its a threaded connection.
 
What about replacing the spigot with a more traditional ball valve? My understanding from talking with Speidel is that its a threaded connection.

It is threaded but I thought I read on here somewhere that it was a metric size. I'll have to take another look at it and see If it will take an English sized fitting. Thanks.
 
any chance you guys could post your recipes. i'm still trying to dial in the braumeister and i'm still learning how to use beersmith. i'm looking to make an ipa next and then a porter. any help would be great.
 
Just a quick question,
I have been away from brewing for about 2 years now and was longing for the future date to purchase a nice sculpture of some sort. However I only recently found out about this device and I really like it!

1. Had an electrician at the house, he recommended a 220volt outlet with a 20amp circuit. I would then just replace the plug with a dryer plug. Does that sound ample for either the 20 or 50L?

2. Anyone have good luck with the voltage converters such as the Amazon.com: LiteFuze LR-5000 5000 Watt Heavy Duty Voltage Regulator w/ Voltage Converter Transformer - Step Up/Down 110/120/220/240V (Free Euro Plug) - Patented Universal Output Sockets: Electronics

I have heard that using the converter can still cause problems if I use it in my kitchen, for example.

Am I just better off with a dedicated circuit?
 
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Just a quick question,
I have been away from brewing for about 2 years now and was longing for the future date to purchase a nice sculpture of some sort. However I only recently found out about this device and I really like it!

1. Had an electrician at the house, he recommended a 220volt outlet with a 20amp circuit. I would then just replace the plug with a dryer plug. Does that sound ample for either the 20 or 50L?

2. Anyone have good luck with the voltage converters such as the http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VCTOK2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I have heard that using the converter can still cause problems if I use it in my kitchen, for example.

Am I just better off with a dedicated circuit?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just a quick question,
I have been away from brewing for about 2 years now and was longing for the future date to purchase a nice sculpture of some sort. However I only recently found out about this device and I really like it!

1. Had an electrician at the house, he recommended a 220volt outlet with a 20amp circuit. I would then just replace the plug with a dryer plug. Does that sound ample for either the 20 or 50L?

So you are saying you do not already have a dryer or oven which has its own 220v circuit already? If you do, you can simply unplug your dryer when you are brewing and plug the braumeister into that outlet. Refer to post 201 for info on how to modify the plug.

You can refer to post 102 for more info on modifying the cord.

2. Anyone have good luck with the voltage converters such as the Amazon.com: LiteFuze LR-5000 5000 Watt Heavy Duty Voltage Regulator w/ Voltage Converter Transformer - Step Up/Down 110/120/220/240V (Free Euro Plug) - Patented Universal Output Sockets: Electronics

I have heard that using the converter can still cause problems if I use it in my kitchen, for example.

Am I just better off with a dedicated circuit?

Do NOT use a voltage converter!!! As I mentioned previously ...
I would strongly recommend against it for a couple of reasons.

First, as is stated in the product descriptions which you linked "Caution:
(1) This voltage converter may not work properly [...] some items with heating element such as coffeemakers, espresso/capuccino makers, percolators, heating pads, toasters, toaster ovens, rice cookers, tea kettles, hot plates, cloth irons, steamers etc."

...which is exactly what the braumeister is, a large hot plate essentially. So basically these would not be guaranteed to work in the first place.

Furthermore, you would need to buy a unit that is at LEAST 2000W, since that is the power requirement of just the heating element. If they can be used continuously at 80% you are looking at needing a 3000W supply. The money you spend on this unit plus the extra power you would be using might help offset the cost of hiring an electrician to add a 220v circuit and outlet to your residence.

No dryer in your place? No way to perhaps make an extension cord?

You would basically be wasting lots and lots of energy due to the conversion, and paying more for a box to do this. Plus it is probably not safe at all.
 
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Searching has failed me so forgive this question if it is redundant.

Have any of you compared (on the same recipe, on Braumeister) the step brewing process vs a single temp process used by us single infusion guys? Presumably a Braumeister will permit either approach?

I'm curious what if any differences may be afforded by Braumeister's step mashing process with the typical highly modified grains used mostly in the USA.

I have a similar system which will allow me to program step mashing but I'm not sure if it actually provides any benefit with our malts? I figured if anyone knows an answer to this it would be the Braumeister guys....

Thanks....
 
Searching has failed me so forgive this question if it is redundant.

Have any of you compared (on the same recipe, on Braumeister) the step brewing process vs a single temp process used by us single infusion guys? Presumably a Braumeister will permit either approach?

I'm curious what if any differences may be afforded by Braumeister's step mashing process with the typical highly modified grains used mostly in the USA.

I have a similar system which will allow me to program step mashing but I'm not sure if it actually provides any benefit with our malts? I figured if anyone knows an answer to this it would be the Braumeister guys....

Thanks....

What timing! I just brewed my second batch today and was wondering the same thing. What are other Braumeister users doing? Sticking with a step mashing program or just doing single temp mashes as most other AG brewers do?
 
I used the default step mash on my first brew. After that I set the temp in each stage to a single infusion making the minutes of each step add up to my mash time of 60 minutes. I was trying for 150 but I think the closest I could get was 151 and change.
 
I used the default step mash on my first brew. After that I set the temp in each stage to a single infusion making the minutes of each step add up to my mash time of 60 minutes. I was trying for 150 but I think the closest I could get was 151 and change.

Yambor, did you not like the results with the step mashing or just revert to what you were comfortable with?

The mash in temp that was pre-programmed on the machine was low (I think 38 C.) Any advantage to having the grain in the water while it warms to about 150F?

Thanks
 
Yambor, did you not like the results with the step mashing or just revert to what you were comfortable with?

The mash in temp that was pre-programmed on the machine was low (I think 38 C.) Any advantage to having the grain in the water while it warms to about 150F?

Thanks

Couldn't tell a difference with the beer I made. From what I have read, step mashing is mostly for grains that are not as "refined" as what most of us have available today. I do like having the option (why I don't know) but only used it the one time.
 
As this is my first post on your forum, i will start by introducing myself. I live on the island of sardinia (part of italy) and have recently taken delivery of a Braumeister 50l.

I own a small farm here and have just become qualified as an operator of a 'fattoria didattica' - literally translated as a farm school. What i am hoping to do is demonstrate each stage from planting the barley to drinking the beer. I know this is a big challenge... especially as i have never brewed a pint in my life!!

Anyway, as i have been lurking on this forum for a while i noticed a few threads about the Braumeister. I was wondering if anyone who owns or uses one of these machines would be prepared to share their knowledge with me.

I was hoping to find a few folks who would act as 'brew guides' - sitting in (via skype) on brew days and providing help and advice.

Hope this is posted in the right place.
 
Have any of you compared (on the same recipe, on Braumeister) the step brewing process vs a single temp process used by us single infusion guys? Presumably a Braumeister will permit either approach?

I'm curious what if any differences may be afforded by Braumeister's step mashing process with the typical highly modified grains used mostly in the USA.

I have a similar system which will allow me to program step mashing but I'm not sure if it actually provides any benefit with our malts? I figured if anyone knows an answer to this it would be the Braumeister guys....

Thanks....

I've compared the same recipe with single, and various multi step infusions. Most of those brews were German style Wheats, or Belgian style Wits that had a large proportion of Wheat and or raw grains.

Mashing in and perfoming a Beta Glucan rest usually gains me a few points, and is necessary when raw grains are used. I have found that by not doing them the flow through the grain bed is greatly reduced. I sometimes use a Feurilic Acid rest on my German Wheat beers to create the conditions for Clove aroma and flavor.

With the malts I am currently brewing with (Weyermann, Wheat and Pilsner) I haven't measured a big difference between an elaborate 6 step mash and a simpler 3-4 step (Mash-in, Conversion, Mash-out).

If one were using a less modified version of the Pilsner, Wheat malt or are using a large amount of raw grains, they would fully realize the benefits of the multi-step capabilities of the Braumeister.
 
Brewed the second 10G batch on Braumeister. (again 82% efficiency) This time I used pellet hops and contained them in a grain bag. There was no "stranded" beer this time! The whole hops in first brew really gunked up the pumps and dip tube so lost quite a bit.

I had to leave for event thus added 10L of water and did a 3 hour boil instead of 90 min. Scotch Ale clone called for 90 min boil before adding hops so wonder how it will affect the flavor.

Anyone else think the drain fitting is a tad small? Takes forever to get 45L of wort into the fermenter...

Snap some pics of anyone has modified it.
 
Okay all of you Braumeisters. Price is looking very good with exchange rates. However, I'm wondering about the length of your brew day. I think I saw one post where someone mentioned 7 hours. What's your length of time for a single step infusion brew, start to finish?
 
@ tektonjp

6-7 hours is my average including cleaning (Grains precrushed, 1hr), 10 hours plus when logging all the gory details.
 
Same for me about 7 hours or so. The more I practice I'm guessing I could knock another hour off. Thinking of purchasing a plate chiller and using my heat stick. Should help.

So my last batch I brewed was Ed wort ipa.

22 lbs pale malt
2 lbs Munich
24 oz crystal 60

So over 25 lbs of grain. I filled my BM up to the 55 liter line (14.5 gallons) Sparged with 10 liters of water. Single infusion mash for 60 min. 90 min boil. Hit my OG. Ended up with about 9gallons in the fermenter. I guess I'll sparge more next time??

I'm still new at all this so any tips would be helpful. For my previous batches I've taken 5 gallon recipes, doubled the ingredients, and added that to 55 liters of water. Does that sound like it could work?
 
How long does it take from mashing to having a rolling boil?
Also, 60 minute mash? 60 boil? How does the time break down?
Thanks.
 
That's a long brew day. I'm an ice-chest/single-infusion brewer. Total time for me is 5 hrs flat, 86% efficiency on my fly sparge. Why does this thing take so long?
 
Milling directly into the hood/funnel was a GREAT idea!!
I think I'll have to modify my mill stand to fit in there!
 
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