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fococlimber

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I was wondering if there is a way to filter out the wort before adding it to the carboy, I do understand the longer i condition in the bottle the more clear the beer will be, Im just curious if there is a fine screen i can put around the funnel to filter and when the hops collect, i can just grab the bag and dump it? im just curious and want clearer beer!

:tank::mug:
 
You could always just use a hop bag in the boil kettle to contain the hop debris from the get go.
 
A lot of people don't bother straining to go from kettle to fewrmenter. I have found that the longer I leave my beer in primary the tighter the trub layeer compacts down to.

But for a bucket getting a 5 gallon nylon paint strainer bag with elastic that fits over the lip of the bucket works great. For a carboy a large funnel and a kitchen strainer in the mouth of the funnel works great.

But if you are cooling you wort down to 70 or less, then you can just use your autosiphon and rack the beer from kettle to fermenter. I use an immersion chiller, and I just rest the bottom of the autosiphon on one of the coils so it is higher than the trub layer, and rack as normal.

Very little sediment gets through.
 
After chilling just give it a few min to settle then rack from the top down...very clear wort every time.
 
I've yet to 'filter' any of my beer, not going into primary, and not when kegging.

And its crystal clear.

Avoiding dumping hops and trub in primary isn't important for clarity.
 
I don't strain my wort going into the fermenter, unless I've used a ton of leaf hops that will clog my siphon. I do make sure I get a good hot break, and use whirlfloc in the kettle, and then get a very good cold break so that I have very clear wort to begin with. Here's my favorite beer- a Dogfish Head 60 minute clone that I make about 4 times per year:

DSCF05521.JPG


I also don't filter after fermentation. Time takes care of most clarity issues. If you leave the beer in the fermenter 3-4 weeks before racking, and rack from above the trub, then most of any sediment would be left behind.
 
is there a recipe for that dogfish 60 minute, i love all three 60 90 and yes the amazingly expensive 120 minute!
 
When it comes to clarifying, I just subscribe to IM/Whirlflock plus cold crashing before kegging. Cold crashing in particular seems to really compact the sediment so I don't get much hops or debris, and the beer has been conditioning for preventing any chill haze. When breweries "filter" they're using extremely fine filtering agents going into kegs/bottles that filter out large enough proteins that might add cloudiness to certain styles of beers. I don't really see the need for that, as my lighter ales tend to be very clear.
 
is there a recipe for that dogfish 60 minute, i love all three 60 90 and yes the amazingly expensive 120 minute!

Click on the "recipes" button under yoops pic to get her pull down for her DFH60 recipe link....

Yep, as Revvy said, it's right there. If it's too much to read (it's a long thread), or you have questions, just PM me your email address and I can email the recipe to you (tell me if you want extract, PM, or AG). In that thread, the AG recipe is post #1, and the extract recipe comes along about post #27 or so. Just let me know if you have any questions.
 
You could probably use the paint bag just as well in a carboy. just stick it in before the funnel.

The thing I like about the paint strainer as opposed to other strainers is that its 5 gallons, so when it clogs, you don't have to stop pouring. You just dump it all in, then pick up the bag which is has a bunch of good wort and move it so it can get through the unclogged parts to get out. With other strainers i've used I had to stop pouring, unclog, pour, stop, unclog, etc.

The first time I used it was on a DFH 60 minute, actually. I'm about to move it to a secondary tomorrow.
 
I do make sure I get a good hot break, and use whirlfloc in the kettle, and then get a very good cold break so that I have very clear wort to begin with.

Yooper,

I am relatively new to the brewing process, done about 5 brews now. Each one has their own characteristics, of course, and I have also been wondering about clearing my beer as they often come out a little hazy. I have read a lot about "make sure you get a good hot/cold bread" but I don't really fully understand what that means. Could you maybe clarify (no pun intended) this term a little bit?

Thanks.
 
Yooper,

I am relatively new to the brewing process, done about 5 brews now. Each one has their own characteristics, of course, and I have also been wondering about clearing my beer as they often come out a little hazy. I have read a lot about "make sure you get a good hot/cold bread" but I don't really fully understand what that means. Could you maybe clarify (no pun intended) this term a little bit?

Thanks.

Sure. In order to get really clear beer, a "hot break" is important. Now, in extract brewing often you don't get much of a hot break, because the extract has already been processed. That's fine.

To give you an example, think of a boiling pot of spaghetti. If almost always seems to boil over for the first few minutes, but suddenly, the foam goes away. It reached the point of the "hot break" so the proteins coagulate and stop foaming up.

The wort will continue to foam until the protein clumps get heavy enough to sink back into the pot. You will see particles floating around in the wort. It may look like Egg Drop Soup. This is very common in AG and partial mash brewing, and a vital part of the process. You wait and add the hops after the hot break, because the hops will also cause some foaming. Much less after the hot break, though. After the hot break, the chance of boilovers is greatly reduced, even with a nice rolling boil.

Now, the cold break is sort of the same thing. Kettle finings like Whirlfloc and Irish moss really help this. This is composed of another group of proteins that need to be thermally shocked into precipitating out of the wort. Slow cooling will not affect them. That's why many of us (the no-chill brewers nonwithstanding) recommend getting the wort from boiling to pitching temp as quickly as possible. If you cool the wort fast, you'll notice that once it gets about 75 degrees, you'll get big "goobers" of coagulated proteins.

Cold break, or rather the lack of it, is the cause of Chill Haze. When a beer is chilled for drinking, these proteins partially precipitate forming a haze. The beer will appear clear at room temperature, but once chilled, those precipitates cause a cloudy appearing, which is called chill haze.

Getting a good hot break and cold break is the only "secret" I have. I don't use any finings (except Whirlfloc in the kettle) or filter, but still have crystal clear beer.
 
i think thats what im doing, I bring it to a boil and when its juuuuuuussst about to foam over I had the hops and then it calms the foam down and just starts a nice rolling boil, and then when all is done I fill my sink with ice, entire bag of ice, liquor store across the street, has its ups and downs. and cool it fairly quickly IMO, i do see the "goobers" kinda looks like burnt pig fat floating just under the surface... sorry im a cook. sound about right?
 

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