Step bit or slug buster

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Mose

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I'm starting to acquire the tools I need for my build. I am looking at Greenlee slug buster sets on Ebay that go up to 1 1/4" I believe, which should, from current research, be large enough for the electric elements many are using and I plan to use. Looks like they are running around $60 in decent shape.

The step bits seem to be about the same price if what I assume is a decent one, but I haven't seen them go that large for the same price.

I plan to use standard 1/2" ball valves, sightglass thermometer, combo sold here by a couple different guys, and the heating elements. Brutus 20 electric will be the end goal, using a keggle as the BK and hopefully eventually one for the MLT, but a cooler MLT for now.

Does one do a better job than the other? Or do I need the type of versitility the step bit allows, vice the 4 or so measurements I'll get out of the slug buster punch out kit?

Thanks.
 
I have both. I made all the holes in my keg with the step bit. For the element, I expanded the hole from the stepbit with the punch.

I soldered my fittings and found that using an oversize collar on the punch will make a nice well around the fitting to hold the solder.
 
I had great luck with the step-bit when cutting my ball valve hole, but not so much for the larger element hole. I had to finish the hole with a round file and it didn't come out too badly. They were the cheapie step-bits from Harbor Freight and it may have been user error on the larger hole.
 
I have tried step bits and never had one go smoothly... granted Harbor Freight bits every time...

However, I purchased the proper greenlee punches for my last set and am a convert.... WAY easier!
 
I love punches, but be aware that the 1 1/4" rating means it's for 1 1/4" ID Conduit. Meaning the hole you get is actually 1 3/4" I have a ruined 10G Cooler for proof :D
 
I love punches, but be aware that the 1 1/4" rating means it's for 1 1/4" ID Conduit. Meaning the hole you get is actually 1 3/4" I have a ruined 10G Cooler for proof :D

Very good to know. Thanks for the advice. Does that 1/2" increase hold true for all the sizes? Meaning the 1/2" rating is going to actually punch a 1" hole? Or will it punch a smaller percentage increase? What I'm hoping is it would punch a 3/4" hole for a ball valve assembly etc... I'm not sure the diameter of the nipple for a sight glass, but you get the idea.
 
I built this entire SS rig with ONE $5 Harbor Freight step bit...

Some of the holes were drilled through 1/8" SS too.

The bit ran flawlessly... everything from the element holes, ball valve holes to all of the mounting holes in the SS stand. Cut like BUTTA... the key is the correct RPM. Oh, and step bits are not self starting bits, you MUST drill a small pilot, then they cut like mad at low RPM and constant pressure.

The nice thing about a step bit is that you can easily chamfer or debur the hole with the bit once you have the hole drilled.

P1030951.jpg
 
"Does that 1/2" increase hold true for all the sizes? Meaning the 1/2" rating is going to actually punch a 1" hole?"

nope 1/2" conduit = 7/8 hole
3/4" conduit= 1 1/8 hole
1" conduit= 1 3/8 hole when using the greenlee punches
 
Used KO sets be careful your bound to end up with dull set of punches. SS requires a sharp as in a new condition punch for a clean hole. Sure a dull punch will work with one hell of a sharp burr needing dressed out after. Just more to piss you off in labor. There are regular Greenlee as well SS rated punch sets. Also the carbide shallow cut hole saws, they cut clean plus way better than any standard Milwaukee or Lenox hole saws. The hydraulic punch head works great for making exhaust pipe couplings with the proper exhaust pipe expansion tool also.

http://chadstoolbox.com/ruko105301electricianstungstencarbideholesawkit78118and138.aspx
http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/tls/1661321490.html
 
Thanks everyone. WillyNilly, I've been drooling over your rig on a couple other threads, very nice work. I may use the installed cooling coil plan. Thanks for the info on the bits.
 
I would drop my dimes on a quality step bit. Even before my adventures in homebrew I used that step bit all the time. The cheap ones I have work but the expensive prove their value.
 
Those rotobach bits look awesome. I bit pricey for my application, but still sweet. I think I'll look at a decent or good step bit then. Thanks.
 
I used a HF step bit last night to go through an SS keg. Stepped it out to 7/8ths. Worked just fine. Drilled a pilot to start.
 
I use rotobach bits a little pricey, but in my fab shop I cut alot of holes
Metal Annular Cutters - Rotabroach Bits
http://www.ohiopowertool.com/c-63-metal-annular-cutters-rotabroach-bits.aspx

I have both sets 1/4 to 3/4 and the large set 7/8 to 1 1/4
perfect round holes no burs

My contractor was given 5 of these Hougen sets to try out on the job as samples for our SS panels. Seems my crew liked them better for home use. We ended up with only one set that was mine I had locked up. At the end of the job layoff time the contractor told me to take my set home as they were brand new. We orderd 10 more sets, used the hell out of them with times without using cutting oil, they are a dream to use vs hole saws. Check below;
http://www.ohiopowertool.com/p-98-hougen-11000-rotacut-large-cutter-kit-11078.aspx
 
Be careful ordering those punches... the ones i bought were labeled " 1 1/4" chassis punch". It indeed makes a 1 1/4" hole. (BTW it was less than 10$ used on ebay.)
The ones that need rethinking are the "conduit" size hole punches. For instance 1/2" conduit make a 7/8" hole.
Just look for "chassis" punches or radio chassis punches. Those will be named by actual hole size. The "conduit" you must clarify.
Good luck!
 
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