DIY Grain Mill Station...Another MOTOR Question

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JBlade

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Alright...I know this type of question have been asked ad nauseum, but I have been going nuts pouring through endless ebay ads for a motor to power my MM3. I have decided to go with a gear motor, but one with the recommended RPM's and with enough torque is hard to come by.

So, I found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAYTON-GEAR...293?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19deba435d

Can anyone tell me why this WOULD NOT work?
 
Alright...I know this type of question have been asked ad nauseum, but I have been going nuts pouring through endless ebay ads for a motor to power my MM3. I have decided to go with a gear motor, but one with the recommended RPM's and with enough torque is hard to come by.

So, I found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAYTON-GEAR...293?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19deba435d

Can anyone tell me why this WOULD NOT work?

Your Dayton motor will work, 100 lb-in torque is not required.
You will find used Bodine gear motors for less on ebay if you are not in a hurry.
Look for one with 115 RPM & 68 lb-in torque.
 
Couldn't you re-purpose one of these guys?

We have removed all the plastic casing and used the motor/gearbox/clutch assembly as robot drive motors. You could even replace the trigger with speed control (potentiometer) and test the clutch positions for the torque output.

Maybe even a cheap window motor could work. Not sure about the speed control though.

MT
 
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Thanks guys.

I will look into the Bodine motors with those specs.

This mill station is going to be used in a homebrew store, so I don't thing the re-purposed drill will work, nor do I think a window motor has enough torque for a 3 roller mill with a 30# hopper.

Thanks again.
 
Cheap motor, but it then needs a belt and sheaves. And a belt-driven grain mill in a retail setting might be a lawsuit waiting to happen, unless the drive is totally enclosed. At which point you've probably spent any money saved by not going with a gear motor...

Cheers!
 
Does it have to be a 110 volt motor? I ask because if you have access to 220 in the area where the mill will be, three phase motors are out there, you may still have to dig around, for cheaper than what I found for single phase motors that fit the specs to drive a mill. Add a phase converter like the TECO FM100, mine was $50 on Ebay, and you have push button control over the rpm's as well as forward/ reverse. Just thought I'd mention it in case you run across something relatively inexpensive. Pic of what I came up with running a 220 ext cord to a dryer recept.

mill1.jpg


mill2.jpg
 
I use a 90 volt DC with a 120AC to dc speed control and a 38# hopper Acrylic free from Lowes/HD (drawer covers from displays) motor $40 along with a control for $25 $15 for two sets of lovejoy couplers all from watching e-bay

image-4067508986.jpg

120rpm at 150 in.lbs of torque
 
JBlade said:
Alright...I know this type of question have been asked ad nauseum, but I have been going nuts pouring through endless ebay ads for a motor to power my MM3. I have decided to go with a gear motor, but one with the recommended RPM's and with enough torque is hard to come by.

So, I found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAYTON-GEAR-MOTOR-ELECTRIC-MOTOR-120-VAC-1-4-HP-120-RPM-1-PH-GEARMOTOR-5K942E-/111110931293?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19deba435d

Can anyone tell me why this WOULD NOT work?

I tried to power my MM3-2.0 with a gear motor with 40 in-lb torque, but it was not enough. I upgraded to 364 in-lb which is probably overkill. Here's the specs for my build:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/motorized-monster-mill-build-373083/

The gear motor selection from surpluscenter.com is hit or miss. Here's another source for the motor I used:

http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/m...neral-purpose-motors-single-phase-tefc-101661
 
The power screwdriver suggestion has some merit, just don't go cordless. You can get a beefy corded power drill with enough torque to run a mill for real cheap. Just enclose it in a wooden box (with ventilation holes for heat) so customers can't see your hack job. Mounting is easy, just use some U-shaped bolts or metal straps. Bolting down the handle will keep the drill turning the mill and not vice versa. Tap into the potentiometer in the trigger that controls the speed and replace it with a casually hidden dial, so you can tune it to run at the right speed when grain is supplying a load. Shaft attachment is easy, just close the chuck on it. Future repairs are super simple; just get another drill when one breaks, tap your dial into the trigger again, and strap it down where the old one was. The only exposed moving parts would be a smooth spinning shaft. If a customer finds a way to hurt himself on that, he was probably flirting with death just operating the front door of your shop. (vs. an exposed belt which can remove fingers.)

I have a power drill that would probably drive two grain mills, way higher end than what you need, and looks like that model costs about $100 from Home Depot. I see another one that would probably work fine for $60, and even cheaper ones from other brands. If you're building this, you probably already have a power drill you can test to see if there's a speed setting on the trigger that drives the mill well. It's worth a shot.

I've used my DeWalt to drill a 1/2" hole through hardened steel in the base of a full-height server rack. (Steel that holds up 4,000 pounds of equipment.) If I wasn't quick to release the trigger when it catches, it could easily wrench itself from my hands. I don't have a way to measure torque, but would guess at least 200 inch-pounds, possibly 300 given I'm holding it by a several-inch handle and it can still break free. The max RPM is in the 300s, but that's full bore with no load, and it went through that server rack at speeds closer to 80 to 100 rpm.

There's also this place. I saw a few motors getting close to your needs. They also sell the raw motors used in cordless drills, and possibly compatible gearboxes too.
 
Thanks, I'm definitely keeping it! I stumbled on it trying to find out the torque rating for those DeWalt corded drills, so I have this thread to thank for its discovery.

Turns out they sell the motor DeWalt uses in their corded drills, but unfortunately not the gearbox. At the point you're buying a motor, gearbox and mounting hardware though, you're probably spending more than if you just picked up the whole drill from your local hardware shop.

I'm trying to think of a way I could measure its torque, but I don't have anything lying around that would fit in the drill chuck and survive the experiment. I'm positive it would pick up my 50lb free weight at the end of a three or possibly four inch rod mounted horizontally in the chuck, based on the kickback I get when it binds. The speed control is solid too. Feels like it's PWM based, maintains very strong torque at lower speeds under heavy load. I've used it to drive hole saws through sheet steel. You'd have to score a motor for pretty cheap to get something rigged up for less than that drill, given that with any other motor you're probably going to be buying mounting hardware, gears / pulleys / belts, connective hardware, and something to seal the system away from customers' hands and clothes for safety.
 
Thank you govner1 for your response. I think I am going to take this route too. Been putting it off for a while due to procrastination and it being a little intimidating. Do you know off the top what the exact extra parts are needed? I just want to make sure the shopping list is correct.

For the Powergrinder side, I understand I need a 22mm Lovejoy?
http://www.grainger.com/product/LOV...rainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1CXN8_AS01

My MM2 has the 1/2" shaft. So, I found this Lovejoy I think matches the 22mm in outside diameter.
http://www.grainger.com/product/LOVEJOY-Shaft-Coupler-Body-4X181

As for the spyder, I found this that seems to match.
http://www.grainger.com/product/LOVEJOY-Insert-2X814

Also, do you have the Powergrinder 180rpm or 240rpm?
 
Sorry for the delay in replying. I've been busy w/ Christmas parties, etc.
I used the following-
1- Lovejoy 22mm w/ keyway ( you'll need to adjust the size of the key on the motor shaft. It is 7mm and Lovejoy doesn't offer metric keyways)
2- Lovejoy w/ opening for your mill shaft (1/2") no keyway
3- BUNA N spider (spacer) that goes between the Lovejoys.
4- Switch w/ outlet. You can wire the motor to run forward & backward if you want.
I contacted Lovejoy directly & was able to order through a local distributor who set up a drop ship to me. Much better pricing than others.
I adjusted the mill to .031 and made a mark on the knob & base so I could easily readjust if it moved.
 
Thanks for these details. That definately helps. Did the links I provide for the Lovejoys look like the right parts given your description?

I have the MM2 with a 1/2" shaft so I'd imagine I need the exact couplings you bought. Do you have those part #s?

Also, good point you bring up on the gap. I have my MM2 dialed in at .039, maybe I should close it up some. My efficiency can be better. I usually get around 70%.
 
Thanks for these details. That definately helps. Did the links I provide for the Lovejoys look like the right parts given your description?



I have the MM2 with a 1/2" shaft so I'd imagine I need the exact couplings you bought. Do you have those part #s?



Also, good point you bring up on the gap. I have my MM2 dialed in at .039, maybe I should close it up some. My efficiency can be better. I usually get around 70%.


I'll look later this AM to see if I can find the exact parts numbers once I get in my office.
 
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Got most my bits in the mail couple weeks ago (lovejoys, spider, key), just waiting on the motor itself. Now says shipped (probably delayed from holidays) with an ETA of next Thursday. Hope to put all this together soon. I just need to find a microwave cart or something to mount it on. Last time I went to the thrift store they didn't have anything. Worst case, a couple of 2x4's and some thick plywood should do the trick for a make-shift mill station.
 
I received a response from Steve to an inquiry of my own. He stated that he would not be able to ship anything until the second week of January. I have yet to put in an order of my own, let me know how you like yours! (I have figured out the model number of the one being sold by AAAW(ch-22-400w-10-a), but cannot find a better price than this one as shipping out of China for a single motor is buku) so will likely be buying from AAAW as well.
 
I received a response from Steve to an inquiry of my own. He stated that he would not be able to ship anything until the second week of January. I have yet to put in an order of my own, let me know how you like yours! (I have figured out the model number of the one being sold by AAAW(ch-22-400w-10-a), but cannot find a better price than this one as shipping out of China for a single motor is buku) so will likely be buying from AAAW as well.

Will do. I went with AAAW just for simplicity. Seems like it'll do the job out of the box without having to do any tinkering to get the desired speed. I'll post back when I get it all together. As of right now, ETA on the motor is Thurs 1/8.
 
Well the motor finally came in, so now I have all the necessary pieces. Planning to put it all together this weekend.

Close-up on Powergrinder motor. Bought the 10:1, so it's got an output speed of 180rpm.
powergrinder-64735.jpg


Lovejoys, 6mm keyway, buna spider. All 075 series.
powergrinder_parts-64736.jpg


Mounting it on this bad boy...
grain-mill-cart-64737.jpg

Found it at a local thrift store for $25.

PS - Don't mind the Girl Scout Cookies. My wife runs 2 local troops and it's now cookie season, so my garage has lots of cookies lol.
 
6mm? The spec sheet says the groove is 7mm. The motor did not include a key? Thanks for posting, keep the build pictures coming!
 
Lovejoy doesn't offer a 7mm keyway. You have to modify the key that comes w/ the motor to get the proper fit. A little work w/ a Dremel tool & patience will get the job done.
 
So I just pulled the trigger as well. After nearly 5 weeks of trying to circumvent the middleman I cannot find a cheaper way to get a better/cleaner motor than Allamericanaleworks. The motors are available from china, but the shipping on a single unit puts it above AAAW price. And I can build something with parts from surpluscenter.com, but it's nearly as expensive and then has the 90 degree gear reducer (which I would prefer parallel over). And the only items going on eBay are well into the $400 range. Long story short, so long as the thing is built well, the AAAW motor is a deal and I'll report back on it in 2-3 weeks when it arrives. In the meantime, I'm sure that now that I'm financially committed, something will pop up on eBay. :p
 
Id like to see AAAW become a vendor on HBT. They have a solid product for those wanting an all together unit ready to go. No monkeying with pulleys or gear reducers. Even has the capacitor start built in. Will be easy to put together.
 
So I just pulled the trigger as well. After nearly 5 weeks of trying to circumvent the middleman I cannot find a cheaper way to get a better/cleaner motor than Allamericanaleworks. The motors are available from china, but the shipping on a single unit puts it above AAAW price. And I can build something with parts from surpluscenter.com, but it's nearly as expensive and then has the 90 degree gear reducer (which I would prefer parallel over). And the only items going on eBay are well into the $400 range. Long story short, so long as the thing is built well, the AAAW motor is a deal and I'll report back on it in 2-3 weeks when it arrives. In the meantime, I'm sure that now that I'm financially committed, something will pop up on eBay. :p


I went through extensive searching for options before purchasing my Power Grinder from AAAW. I'm very pleased w/ my choice and the performance has been outstanding w/ my 3 roller Monster Mill.
 
Motorized it earlier tonight. Here's some shots along the way, and the completed rig. The crush is amazing. I'll put up a running video of it in action once I brew again (next week). Spent some quality time with my Dad building it. Don't get to do many projects with him these days so that was a nice bonus!

This Powergrinder motor (http://www.allamericanaleworks.com) is awesome! Does a great job and really is a treat to setup. Very easy.

Here's a video on YouTube of the Powergrinder in action by the seller.

motorized_mill_build1-64741.jpg


motorized_mill_build2-64742.jpg


powergrinder-64753.jpg


And the completed setup...
motorized_mm2-64743.jpg

motorized_mill2-64752.jpg
 
Looks good Wreck :mug:

My motor is slated to arrive on Monday, which drives me nuts because the wife and kids are away all weekend and I would love a "me" project.
 
Just out of curiosity that needs to be satiated prior to Monday... The inside of that electrical box on the side of the motor, is it pretty jam-full of capacitor and wiring? I've been planning on a remotely located switch, but I'm wondering if right on the motor is feasible.
 
Just out of curiosity that needs to be satiated prior to Monday... The inside of that electrical box on the side of the motor, is it pretty jam-full of capacitor and wiring? I've been planning on a remotely located switch, but I'm wondering if right on the motor is feasible.

If that's what you want, I'd say go for it :D
The cover adds volume to the space as well...

10429071570.jpg
 
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