Sanding down my sharp keggle - help

Hi,

I just cut off the top of my keg to make a keggle. I have a #50 sanding wheel for my angle grinder, it says "aluminum oxide" on it.

Can I use this to sand down the sharp edges of the hole I cut? Or do I have to worry about rust? I read all these threads about keg polishing and everyone was concerned about what type of polishing pads they used.

Part 2: If the top rim does rust a little, I suppose that doesn't matter much being that it isn't in contact with the beer (and won't ever be, barring a vicious boil over) right?

I WANT TO DO THIS TONIGHT SO I CAN BREW TOMORROW!

Thanks!

It is much harder to screw this up than most people lead you to believe, I say get to sanding, and use that thing.

The people who sand with only the right equipment and only weld a certain way are making their keggles the right way and should be emulated if possible. They are making excelent quality equipment that could be sold at stores, and will last the user a lifetime. I myself have done 2 kegs, one a quick and dirty job and one with more care.

The first one I cut the top off of with a grinding wheel (did not make a very round opening) used a belt sander and then and mig welded a spout on, not my best work but it serves it purpose and I still use it today.

My second keg had the top cut off on a professional CNC plasma table, my friend then back gassed and tig welded the spout and the thermometer on so it wouldn't carmelize and I properly sanded and polished the keg inside and out.

All in all the keg that was done properly will last a lifetime, the other one is going on 2 years of use and hasn't crapped out yet, but I do expect to have to replace it at some point during my lifetime.

sweet. I am going to do it right now.

BTW. I managed to get a pretty round hole on my first attempt using a 4 -1/2 inch angle grinder, once sanded it should be nice.

I will be more careful when I decide to polish it up though.

You'll be fine. It probably looks better than this.

I did two with a 3" cutoff wheel and then cleaned the holes up with a small grinding stone.. I've got one to do now and think I'm going to have a buddy cut it with his plasma cutter 'cause it'll be much quicker. I would think sandpaper would be a hadr way to smooth those edges though.... have you done it yet? If so, how'd it work out?

If it does begin rusting or giving you problems you can always go back and grind out the affected areas later.

good brewing!

On my next brewing build I will not care what the kegs outside finish looks like except the top lifting ring band as i'll insulate the rest of the keg with closed cell foam plus add a hard liner material of some type. No worries on burning the liners as this will be 100% electrically heated, closed cell to not absorb any liquids be it water or sticky dry wort later.
On stainless I've used the 1/4 sheet palm sander starting with 220 or 320 grit ending with 1,000 grit. You'll go thru many sheets and it starts to hit the wallet.

Word of caution here on sandpaper without getting someone bent out of shape again calling me out as a political reply mixed in a beer forum here. Norton a major quality brand of sandpaper which is available at your local Ace hardware or other stores, NOTE, read the papers country of manufacture. Made in U.S.A. is ok to use, made in India is not. The India made Norton paper is about 3/4" shorter the long way so if cut into 1/4 sheets it is too short to fit under the hold down locks on the 1/4 sheet palm sander. It will only work if you cut out and use two sheets per full sheet but wasteful. This is not a political attack just a warning as I have had replies in the past just a couple days ago on a pipe fitting leak problem. This above topic is now closed!

For the old car of the 50's stainless trim that looks like chrome a big buffer with the PROPER STAINLESS COMPOUND must be used. I'm talking an industrial buffer with 3-5 hp not a little drill motor here. Yeah sure hold up a keg against a industrial buffer your arms will fall off after 5 minutes.

If you work on the top of the keg while rolling it on a blanket with a palm sander the job will be easy on the back still ending up with 1,000 grit for that mirror finish can be had but takes time. I once used a regular cloth buffing wheel in the drill press with automotive car cleaners and polishes. This made for a tearing of the stainless material finish look but was corrected with the 1/4 sheet sander with 1,000 grit.
File and dress down all sharp burs first then with sand paper by hand as they will be there after the polish if not.

McKBrew said:

You'll be fine. It probably looks better than this.

Click to expand...

hahaha . love it.