Compact and easy to use.
Not exactly, it's simply a safety issue. The only time copper was routinely used is for flex connections (rigid pipe was and is run with "black" pipe for added strength and cost savings). The new flex lines that are used are simply less likely to develop leaks after movement than soft copper with a field installed compression fitting.
On a brew stand you have the safety advantage (hopefully) of using it in a well ventilated area (gas should not build up in a living space if leak occurs), open installation (no place to trap excess gas if a leak occurs), and the gas source is typically turned off after use. This being said, copper should be fine for this application if so desired.
Brew52 said:This is my purpose built for: Low Gravity Session Beers - RIMS Brewery (batch sparge). Not done yet, but a little closer each month.
wilconrad said:As a long time consumer, here's my own contribution to the world of brew porn: (more pics at the link in my signature, if you're interested)
bd2xu said:Finished phase two of my strut built brutus rig. Added a second pump, wired pumps in switch box, lids with sparge arm and return loc line. Double brew day of house IPA and Irish red. Went pretty well, still have some adjustments to make. As usual my MLT gave me fits not wanting to drain but was able to tighten it up and got it going. Next major phase is automation but that will be awhile.
Sorry, not following youShootersBrewCrew said:Does the head on your beer say sweet? If so thats awesome!
Sorry, not following you
ShootersBrewCrew said:Does the head on your beer say sweet? If so thats awesome!
doh! Sorry forgot about that. Thought it was a cool picture the way the sun made that shadow.reynolds5520 said:Look at your beer picture back in post 2863 https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/show-us-your-sculpture-brew-rig-46578/index287.html#post5694521
Thank you. It's been about 3 years in the making.That is awesome, looks like a laboratory grade setup!
doh! Sorry forgot about that. Thought it was a cool picture the way the sun made that shadow.
One hose barb away from having it where I want it. The 3 way valves eliminate hose changes.
Ha, yeah the plumbing got a little busy. I wanted to stay away from hard plumbing for ease of cleaning, but still not need to make hose changes. I wish the photos had turned out better. The lighting in my garage is awful. Thanks for the kind words, guys.mattd2 said:I think an octopus might be attacking your brewery NIce setup with not having to change over hoses... one day I will get there!
Ha, yeah the plumbing got a little busy. I wanted to stay away from hard plumbing for ease of cleaning, but still not need to make hose changes. I wish the photos had turned out better. The lighting in my garage is awful. Thanks for the kind words, guys.
I think I've got my setup to the point where I can share some pics. It's a single tier stand made out of two Edsel bin shelving units from Menards and a 2x8 piece of butcher block countertop.
The bins are great for additional storage of grains, hardware, chemicals, etc.
The only thing that I have left to do is convert to 3-way ball valves so that I'm not having to manually switch lines in the middle of the brew day.
ChefRex said:I'm in the beginning stages of designing a single,possible duel level convertible brew stand. What I need is the outside diameter of an average keg and/or the overall length of your stand minus extras just the area for the 3 vessels.
I have a good ghetto setup now but would like to weld up a stand that I can expand to keggels if iI decide to.
Thanks in advance, cheers
Approximatly 16 inch diameter for the keggles. Probably closer to 15.5" if I remember correctly.
Edit to add:
Mine are exactly 15.5 inches from the outside edge of the keg, across to the opposite outside edge (what you called the "outside diameter").
That would make a single tier about 54" in length with about 3" of space between kegs.
One hose barb away from having it where I want it. The 3 way valves eliminate hose changes.
Ha, thanks no beers until I start the boil (usually). It really is pretty intuitive, the valve handle points in the direction of flow.GoodDogShelby said:That is one system you wouldn't want to brew on while drinking!! Keeping track of one 3-way valve is tough. I can't imagine using a BAZILLION. Nice looking setup.
GoodDogShelby said:Keeping track of one 3-way valve is tough.
Wow that is pro. You must have close to 10k in that awesome rig. Do you usually brew two barrels at a time?jcaudill said:Can't remember if I posted this up here or not! So just in case: 30 gallon direct-fired RIMS with Brewtroller. All kettles interconnected via hard pipe and 3 way valves control the direction of flow. All soft tubing is 3/4" ID chlorobutyl brewery hose. Ceramic coated 1" steel tube stand, combination high and low pressure propane, 30-plate chiller, inline aeration. Last mod will be hard plumbing the water into the end of the main rail instead of direct to the HLT. This also gives me a CIP entry/exit point.
jcaudill said:Can't remember if I posted this up here or not! So just in case: 30 gallon direct-fired RIMS with Brewtroller. All kettles interconnected via hard pipe and 3 way valves control the direction of flow. All soft tubing is 3/4" ID chlorobutyl brewery hose. Ceramic coated 1" steel tube stand, combination high and low pressure propane, 30-plate chiller, inline aeration. Last mod will be hard plumbing the water into the end of the main rail instead of direct to the HLT. This also gives me a CIP entry/exit point.
30 gallon direct-fired RIMS with Brewtroller.
Wow that is pro. You must have close to 10k in that awesome rig. Do you usually brew two barrels at a time?
Very impressive! What is the stainless bowl looking thing at the BK?
Enter your email address to join: