What size shanks do I need?

I'm having trouble figuring out how long I need my shanks. I'm planning on making my collar 2" thick and then I'm putting a facade in front of my keezer to blend in with the cabinets that I'm thinking should add another 2" max. When reading the desciption of the shanks at beveragefactory, they said that "This shank is 5-1/8" long measured from the end of the threading to the end where the faucet attaches". So what I guess I want to know is how much space do I have from the flange on the outside to the compression ring that secures it. I can make guestimates but I don't want to have to return my shanks for being too short or have a lot of extra shank length getting in the way either.

Pushing through a 2x4 I used a 4" long shank. It has more than enough without pushing the limit.

I'm going through a 2x4 and up to 2" more with the facade. Do you think I'd be okay with the 5 1/8" or the 6 1/8"?

I'm going through a 3/4" thick panel and 2" shanks were just a tiny bit too short. I actually may have been able to use them but it didn't look like there was enough exposed thread to get the hex nut fully threaded on. It was VERY close. So it appears you need the shank length to be at least 1-3/8" longer than the thickness of the panel...maybe 1-1/2" just to be safe.

Awesome. That's what I was looking for. About how much "extra" space was needed for compression ring, flange, etc.

I didn't actually measure it once I got 'em in. But the shanks were sold as 3" SS shanks from Midwest Supplies. The 3" shanks leave me plenty of room to fully thread the hex nut on.

SpanishCastleAle said:

I'm going through a 3/4" thick panel and 2" shanks were just a tiny bit too short. I actually may have been able to use them but it didn't look like there was enough exposed thread to get the hex nut fully threaded on. It was VERY close. So it appears you need the shank length to be at least 1-3/8" longer than the thickness of the panel...maybe 1-1/2" just to be safe.

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I tried to put 2" shanks through a 5/8" board backed with 1/8" steel and it wouldn't go. I wound up buying the 4-1/8" shanks to do the trick. Mine simply wouldn't have worked at all. I couldn't screw the nipples on tight enough to prevent leaks.

Yea, that sounds about right...I wasn't sure but knew it was close. Good info. What I'm calling 'hex nut' is what you're calling 'nipple'.

I posted this yesterday in another thread. You can see the 4-1/8" shanks and right next to them are the nipples. They have a barbed connector for the hose to fit on, a rubber washer, and the hex nut. The nut HAS to screw completely on to compress the washer.

One school of thought is that you should have a fair amount of shank inside the kegerator to keep the shank and the beer in it cold while not in use. Don't know if it is true but it cant hurt to have extra long shanks.

Excellent point camiller. It is true...more metal mass inside the keezer the colder the tap.

SpanishCastleAle said:

Excellent point camiller. It is true...more metal mass inside the keezer the colder the tap.

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If that's the case of having a large brass non iron metallic mass I can use inside behind all the shanks this sounds like a good idea. I have a length of brass stock 7/16" thick x 4.125" wide by 10' long that can be cut to one length for all the taps or milled into seperate large square washers butting up one for each tap. This would hold or store a large amount of energy keeping the shanks and taps cold. The best part it fell off a "American Iron and Brass" delivery flat bed 10 ton truck many years ago. Dad picked it up with his USPS parcels delivery truck. A B & I did not want the item back the next day and told hom to keep it. I was thinking about machining end caps with a seal groove then adding a pyrex tube for exposing a O2 stone with NPT in the center w/SS screws holding it together. Cut and mill the stock into large heat sink squares then drill for shanks on the lathe. The price is right, labors free, another must add to build items list thanks HBT forum.

Just don't let the brass contact the beer. It allegedly can impart off-flavors.

SpanishCastleAle said:

Just don't let the brass contact the beer. It allegedly can impart off-flavors.

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With the thick square brass stock around the stainless shank under the lock nut on the shank how can there be any direct brass contact with the bier at all? I do not understand how this is possible with the bier going thru the stainless shanks without any contact with the brass stock at all?

Addition to reply; On the brass flanged pyrey glass tube with stone in the window window to watch for the amount of O2 injectected into the wort yes the wort would be subjected to direct contact with the brass for only a short time period being only enough time drain into the fermentor from the chilled down boil pot. This short of time plus the brass injector flanges pickled before assembly will not cause it to "it allegedly can impart off-flavors" problems.
I have seen ten times more brass in direct contact with not alone wort for a short time but with bier over a long time or until a corny has become empty with the system fully and properly pickled without any "off-flavors". I would not want long term brass contact with finished bier on my system.

camiller said:

One school of thought is that you should have a fair amount of shank inside the kegerator to keep the shank and the beer in it cold while not in use. Don't know if it is true but it cant hurt to have extra long shanks.

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Extra long stainless steel shanks would not hurt unless the space behind them are an issue but you must remember stainless also is a poor conductor of hot or cold as a heat transfer material. What little is gained your splitting hairs.

The benefit is having all that extra thermal mass inside the keezer. It will help keep the entire shank/faucet assembly a little cooler for better pours.