Minimalistic 120v Mash Temperature Controller

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Bartp

Bartp

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Hi Everyone,

Few folks have asked me to put together instructions for my control panel. So, well…. here it is - a very simple and crudely made prototype of my mash temperature controller. I named it MashBrick…’cause well, you get crafty like that after a beer or two.

IMG_1856-225x300.jpg


This controller is minimalistic in nature and works on a 120v outlet. Inspired mostly by stuff I’ve seen here on homebrewtalk and other parts of the interwebs.

The purpose of this panel is to sustain the mash temps in my recirculated 20gal BIAB kettle and subsidize boiling on stove-top. I'm sure it will work for other applications as well.

The design is quite simple. One PID, three switches and an outlet. Wiring below.

electric_biab_control_panel_image104.jpg


I've put Instructions/Overview on my website. The state of the site isn't all that great yet, but I only have time to work on it on my spare time. Which is hard to come by lately.

Check it out here: www.AleDrinkers.com

Thanks!
 
Could you run 2 pumps of this? I am seriously wanting to stick with 110V (maybe even a crude heat stick since I have propane to supplement if needed.
 
30Bones said:
Could you run 2 pumps of this? I am seriously wanting to stick with 110V (maybe even a crude heat stick since I have propane to supplement if needed.
Click to expand...

Sure you could. Add a second switch to the second outlet if you want it to be switch controlled as well. What kind of pump are you running? My only concern is that the heating element at full duty cycle is already taking up about 11.5 amps. There’s room for more on the 15amp breaker however, recommended load should be under 80% of rating for extended period of time. Do you know power requirements of your pumps?
 
Following along , this looks like something I might attempt, simple for a dummy like me to get my toes wet.

Are you using this as a HERMS system?
Thanks.
 
Awesome Thanks! I'm using this in my recirculating BIAB setup, however there's no reason why it wouldn't work in a HERMS system. The panel can keep constant temperature in whatever vessel you want.
 
Bartp said:
Sure you could. Add a second switch to the second outlet if you want it to be switch controlled as well. What kind of pump are you running? My only concern is that the heating element at full duty cycle is already taking up about 11.5 amps. There’s room for more on the 15amp breaker however, recommended load should be under 80% of rating for extended period of time. Do you know power requirements of your pumps?
Click to expand...

This has been beaten to death, but AFAIK the 80% rule applies to continuous loads of a minimum of three hours, and an SSR switching on and off does not constitute a continuous load. :)
 
jeffmeh said:
This has been beaten to death, but AFAIK the 80% rule applies to continuous loads of a minimum of three hours, and an SSR switching on and off does not constitute a continuous load. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. Makes sense. :mug:
 
I finished up building this today. I went with a 50. Cal ammo box (11x7x5.5") instead of the 7.62mm I think you used.

Gave me a bit more space to work with and I found it a cramped space to work in anyway so I would recommend the larger box.

ImageUploadedByHome Brew1412537979.518966.jpg

Here it is running with my new rims tube from Brewhardware.com.

ImageUploadedByHome Brew1412537997.769452.jpg

I didn't need the thermo-coupler you came up with since I just went ahead a bought one with a detachable cord with the PID controller that would thread right into the 1/2" NPT of the RIMs tube. So I have a port on the side above the heating element connector for connecting my temperature sensor. I used a 20amp wall outlet instead of the connector you had trouble mounting so mine is screwed right into the side of the ammo box without a problem attaching it, much cleaner setup (don't have a picture just yet but I'll get one). Wiring wise mine follows your layout pretty identically, except I didn't bother breaking off the tab and having 1 non-switched outlet where the pump plugs in.

I'm also using a re-purposed PC heatsink for cooling.
 
Siberian said:
I finished up building this today. I went with a 50. Cal ammo box (11x7x5.5") instead of the 7.62mm I think you used.

Gave me a bit more space to work with and I found it a cramped space to work in anyway so I would recommend the larger box.

View attachment 227721

Here it is running with my new rims tube from Brewhardware.com.

View attachment 227722

I didn't need the thermo-coupler you came up with since I just went ahead a bought one with a detachable cord with the PID controller that would thread right into the 1/2" NPT of the RIMs tube. So I have a port on the side above the heating element connector for connecting my temperature sensor. I used a 20amp wall outlet instead of the connector you had trouble mounting so mine is screwed right into the side of the ammo box without a problem attaching it, much cleaner setup (don't have a picture just yet but I'll get one). Wiring wise mine follows your layout pretty identically, except I didn't bother breaking off the tab and having 1 non-switched outlet where the pump plugs in.

I'm also using a re-purposed PC heatsink for cooling.
Click to expand...


Sorry I've missed your Post!

This is way cool! fantastic work!
 

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