Keggle Valve Install

I wanted to put a ball valve on the keggle that got me through college. I plan on Mig or Tig welding it on there, but I wanted to see if anyone had a suggested parts list for a welded install. I searched through threads but I really couldnt get a sure idea.

Thanks

Interested in this question as well, currently I have two pots I am thinking of just putting in a SS threaded port in for.

Just an FYI for a weld-less install, I ordered from these guys on a Friday evening, I got the stuff on Monday. Only $5.00 shipping.
I know I could do it a little cheaper myself but these guys have taken all the guess work out of it. I emailed a question about my aluminum pot and got a response in about an hour or so.
I just added the ball valve to my kettle this weekend, very easy using a step drill. I recommend them but of course, these are weld-less connections!

www.greatbargain.net

+1 on the weldless at Bargain Fittings.

Unless your already setup to weld, I don't see the point in going through the trouble and cost for a couple of valves.

Also the owner frequents and supports HBT.

1/2" Stainless full coupling, 1/2" stainless close nipple, 1/2" stainless ball valve.

On the inside I do a 1/2" NPT to 1/2" brass flare connector, bend some 1/2" OD soft copper in to a dip tube, flare the end, and attach with flare nut.

This is my HLT, but my BK has a similar one, but instead of going to the center, it only goes about 1/2" the distance.

Is the dip tube necessary, I was wondering what purpose it served.

Will319 said:

Is the dip tube necessary, I was wondering what purpose it served.

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Since the hole in the side of the keg (or pot) is above the bottom, you'll leave liquid in there. It's even worse with a keg since the bottom of it is sloped. Without the dip tube, you'd have at least a gallon of dead space.

I may sound like an idiot but I wouldnt think the liquid would travel up the j shaped tube

Once you start draining the liquid out, a siphon is created sucking the remaining liquid up and out.

It allows you to get the remaining wort that is left in the kettle since the valve is higher than the bottom (creates a siphon).

Is there a problem with hop pellets getting lodged in the tube in this design

Well, you wouldn't want to run a dip tube to the center like that in a boil kettle, or you would definitely plug it with hops, hot break, cold break (if you use an IC). Most people run the dip tube in a boil kettle only a few inches in, then down, and account for some volume lost to dead space.

diatonic said:

Well, you wouldn't want to run a dip tube to the center like that in a boil kettle, or you would definitely plug it with hops, hot break, cold break (if you use an IC). Most people run the dip tube in a boil kettle only a few inches in, then down, and account for some volume lost to dead space.

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Or use a filter or screen of some kind. I use a hop bag for my hops and don't worry about any other break material clogging the port. my dip tube is in the center of my boil kettle.

MrShake said:

Or use a filter or screen of some kind. I use a hop bag for my hops and don't worry about any other break material clogging the port. my dip tube is in the center of my boil kettle.

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My dip tube runs to the center of my BK also. It runs through a false bottom and it's a 1/2" ID tube and I have no problems with it clogging with anything. Most of the trub/hop debris is retained on the FB. Not all of it, but most is.

MrShake said:

Or use a filter or screen of some kind. I use a hop bag for my hops and don't worry about any other break material clogging the port. my dip tube is in the center of my boil kettle.

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Are we supposed to filter out the break materials, or just let them into the fermenter? I am confused on this point. Thanks!

Mirage said:

Are we supposed to filter out the break materials, or just let them into the fermenter? I am confused on this point. Thanks!

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I like to keep as much non-wort stuff out of the fermenter as I can, but it doesn't really matter. I prefer to have as little 'foreign' matter as possible in my carboys. I've read that Jamil waits 24 hours to pitch yeast, and dumps trub from the bottom of his conical right before pitching. Here's some pictures from BierMuncher's gallery which illustrate what I don't like to see in mine.

Yea, that is what we usually whirlpool and then rack from the edge. I was going to buy a bulkhead and a dip tube for the keggle, but maybe not worth it. Maybe just get a big racking cane. Thanks for the reply.