My new, sexy bottle drain keggles

Preview of what's to come

Oh...bottom drain! I was so confused. Very sexy.

Hello said:

Oh...bottom drain! I was so confused. Very sexy.

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I know... I was wondering "What the heck is a 'bottle drain keggle?'"

yea, i usually drain bottles through my liver via a glass... but to each his own lol.

Oh god. That's what I get for posting before my morning coffee.

Very nice, the bottom drain keggles, not the bottle drain keggles.

Why so tiny? I see a stuck sparge in your future.

Bobby_M said:

Why so tiny? I see a stuck sparge in your future.

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bottle neck?

They're 1/2" pipe or rather the fitting is 1/2". Not full bore though so it's more like 3/8". I"ll be throwing in a Blichmann false bottom so theoretically I shouldn't run into a stuck sparge. *Crossing fingers*

That being said...got any advice for avoiding the stuck sparge?

GilaMinumBeer said:

bottle neck?

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Oh, my... I sense a pun war coming. :rockin:

Please post updates after you use as few time. Cool idea.

Came looking for an education on what a bottle drain is

aangel said:

They're 1/2" pipe or rather the fitting is 1/2". Not full bore though so it's more like 3/8". I"ll be throwing in a Blichmann false bottom so theoretically I shouldn't run into a stuck sparge. *Crossing fingers*

That being said...got any advice for avoiding the stuck sparge?

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Rice hulls. With that small of opening, I'd almost just use rice hulls most of the time. It's hard to say. My FB does a great job, but if you're pumping as opposed to gravity, I would be very careful.

aangel said:

They're 1/2" pipe or rather the fitting is 1/2". Not full bore though so it's more like 3/8". I"ll be throwing in a Blichmann false bottom so theoretically I shouldn't run into a stuck sparge. *Crossing fingers*

That being said...got any advice for avoiding the stuck sparge?

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I'd avoid the Blichmann false bottom. I assume the largest you'll be able to fit is a 12" version (no hinge on those Blichmann models). In my opinion, you need to get a full 15" hinged false bottom. There are several good versions available from BrewHardware (Bobby), Stainless Brewing, and NorCal Brewing (JayBird). You'll need the most surface area possible to avoid stuck sparges and recirculate efficiently.

aangel said:

They're 1/2" pipe or rather the fitting is 1/2". Not full bore though so it's more like 3/8". I"ll be throwing in a Blichmann false bottom so theoretically I shouldn't run into a stuck sparge. *Crossing fingers*

That being said...got any advice for avoiding the stuck sparge?

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Widen the drain hole there. You will get particles under the false bottom at first, and with that small of a hole IDK... looks like two hulls stuck together would clam that thing right up.

Maybe it'll be fine.

To be used as a boil kettle as well?

How to you keep from scorching / caramelizing what's in the small drain tube?

Or is that where "recirculating" comes into play?

Watching!

This is not argumentative, but to all of you predicting a stuck spare, how does this differ from the tippy dump or other inverted mash tuns? I only ask because I too wanted to turn a half barrel into an inverted mash tun.

Edit: on further note, are you guys suggesting stuck sparge due to the stainless line instead of using a tri-clamp on the sanke fitting?

My comment is more related to the fact that when you custom weld in some hardware, go big. 5/8" OD tubing is significantly more forgiving than 1/2" and it still works with 1/2" npt fittings. Flipping the keg and using a TC adapter is an alternative but not better in any way. It's just a weld vs. Weld less solution. Welding a threaded spud in allows a little more flexibility.

With the narrow opening you may get a clog due to particles getting through the FB. Maybe not.

I've had some issues even with a larger opening and bottom draining plumbing. I have a very nice Jaybird false bottom, but I had some vacuum issues (probably related to the bend and to the pump). I ended up buying a bag like the BIAB brewers use, and lined the MLT with that. It helped so much, and I'd recommend that for such a small plumbed bottom draining MLT.

I would also suggest a way to dismantle the set up, as that looks like some clogging could happen and it would be very difficult to clean. An air compressor could blow into it, I suppose, but I do remove my triclover every so often to clean it thoroughly after a few clean-in-place sessions, and you'd be surprised how stuff can be in there even after cleaning.

Well, this is depressing to hear. I'll put the setup together and test it out this weekend, with pics. I might wrap the false bottom in a BIAB bag, or figure out some kind of 2nd false bottom layer. I think I might be able to get a slot cut into the lid to fit a wider false bottom in. From my understanding, the Blichmann false bottoms probably won't allow any grain through?

This is going to be a 3-vessel setup (3rd keg incoming). . We'll see if scorching is a concern during the boil. I'm hoping it won't bee since the pipe IS contiguous with the rest of the vessel. Recirculation of boiling wort wouldn't really work well due to bubbles causing cavitation.

You may need to shield the tube a bit if you are direct firing the boil kettle but you will figure that out after the first batch. The blichmann fb won't let much through but I'd look for some way to hold it down and centered.

I'm wondering if welding a little notch or two in the bottom of the keg will help hold a FB in place.

Hmmm.........
On holding it in place: You could install it, mark the perimeter of it in 3 places, and have a small weld "bead" placed in those places.

That's if, your false bottom is flexible enough for you to "flex" it past the bead...........And ya' still gotta' take it out too!

I would sit the FB in place, then silver solder 3 small bolts hex head down to the bottom. Now you can throw a washer on those and put some wingnuts. Silver solder is preferable to welding in this case because it can be easily removed if plans change.

Bobby_M said:

I would sit the FB in place, then silver solder 3 small bolts hex head down to the bottom. Now you can throw a washer on those and put some wingnuts. Silver solder is preferable to welding in this case because it can be easily removed if plans change.

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Would the silver bearing solder melt due to direct fire heat?

aangel said:

Would the silver bearing solder melt due to direct fire heat?

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Nope, it won't get that hot on the count of:

1. There is liquid in the there keeping the temp to low for solder to flow
2. The flame is not direct on the solder, the stainless acts like a big heatsink.

Hey look, it worked. Good suggestion! The false bottom is so flush against the keg bottom that I don't need a silicon gasket either.

Little bit of follow up:

Even with the Blichmann FB and the bottom drain, efficiency is highly variable. Anything from 75% for a two-step batch sparge to 94% for a very slow (1.5H for 11.5gal) fly sparge (1.050-1.060 OG)

My last beer had a post-mash gravity that was equal to what I wanted post-boil. Had to add water to bring the gravity back down