I decided to build my first kegerator! Well keezer really. I'm going to need some help as I hardly have any experience with operating a kegerator let alone constructing one. I just bought a small chest freezer on cl and found the kegs I think I'll get online. After that, I don't really know where to start. I've been doing my research on here and other places, but with all the different setups have found it kind of hard to get generalized answers. First of all, this will probably be pretty bare bones, I don't care if it's beautiful. Second I've always been a DIY'er and have no problems going to town on this freezer. It's small it will hold two, hopefully three cornies and the CO2. I need to decide if it should be a collar or tower, I'm leaning towards a tower cause I like the way they look and even with the collar i think the taps would be low. I guess my next question would be, if it does hold three kegs, are there towers that hold three taps? If I'd have to go with two towers would that make you lean toward a collar? I'll have to purchase one maybe two items per paycheck, what should be first? I've found several retailers but does anyone have any recomendations? What should I ask or start thinking about next. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I have all the time and energy I need, but limited funds and less experience.
First Kegerator(Keezer) Help
- Thread starter lee_smn
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Congrats on the decision to build a keezer! Most people will create collars for chest freezers because of space issues. Since a chest freezer opens from the top you will need to set the keezer far enough off the wall so you can open and lock the top, some will build wheels on their units so they can place the unit against the wall and slide it out with ease when they need to open it, which you will do more then you think.
There many places that sell tripple tap towers. As you can see they are a little on the expensive side which is another reason why the collars are on the popular side. Additionally, giving you the extra space the keg requires with the disconnects on and a mounting place for the shanks so you don't destroy the freezer.
You will need to look at getting a temp controller since all freezers even at the warmest setting.
I know perlicks seem so expensive but they are worth it, save an extra week and get them.
For the most part I pieced my keezer's together from http://northernbrewer.com/ and my local brew shop.
There many places that sell tripple tap towers. As you can see they are a little on the expensive side which is another reason why the collars are on the popular side. Additionally, giving you the extra space the keg requires with the disconnects on and a mounting place for the shanks so you don't destroy the freezer.
You will need to look at getting a temp controller since all freezers even at the warmest setting.
I know perlicks seem so expensive but they are worth it, save an extra week and get them.
For the most part I pieced my keezer's together from http://northernbrewer.com/ and my local brew shop.
lee_smn
Well-Known Member
wow i didn't expect them to be that much, thanks for the advice, i'll check out northern brewer soon. I love my lhbs but as far as equip i'm pretty sure they buy from more beer and mark up 300% and that's further then my support will get them. as for the temp controller i think i'm going to get one the freezer plugs into then goes into the wall, this one doesn't even have a thermometer at all so i don't know if the other kinds will still work. I think I will go with the collar, that will kind of let me start building that now while i'm waiting for funds for other parts. Do you know if there is some limit on how tall the collar should be, i mean functionally.
That will be a good choice for the temp controller. I would spend the extra 10 to 20 bucks and go with the digital version. Example. Personally, I like having tall collars. I used a 2x10 when I built mine. My brewing partner and I have found only one issue with this, don't ever drop anything inside the keezer. I have to take the collar off if I want to pull the drain plug in the freezer. But, a pro to my setup is that my collar is so tall that I can have a case of bottles on top the kegs and my tap handles don't extend past the lid so I don't accidentally pull a pint all over the floor when changing kegs.
I_B_Mongo
Well-Known Member
A perlick is a type of faucet. They are the forward seal kind. They're a bit more expensive, but everybody who has them swears by them. I built my kegorator a few years ago (before I discovered HBT), and went with the cheap kind. They work okay, but really wish I would have gone with the perlicks. I know I can change them out to perlicks, but at this point I'm thinking about just selling the kegerator whole, and putting that money towards a keezer w/ perlicks.
With that said, since you're building this thing paycheck to paycheck, I would suggest spending on a dual regulator so you could have beers served at different pressures (i.e. a belgian and a scottish ale).
Good luck on the build, and keep us posted.
With that said, since you're building this thing paycheck to paycheck, I would suggest spending on a dual regulator so you could have beers served at different pressures (i.e. a belgian and a scottish ale).
Good luck on the build, and keep us posted.
Perlick Forward Seal Faucet. The Perlick Forward Seal Faucet also represents a huge design improvement over the old-fashioned traditional chrome beer faucet. The shut-off seal has been moved from the rear of the faucet to the front. This prevents the familiar 'sticky faucet' syndrome, as the lever mechanism is never allowed to dry out. Fantastic, smooth action from first pint to last!
if money is an issue and you want to start slowly... first, measure the inside dimensions of the keezer against the diameter of a keg... know how many it will fit as that will impact your design..
so first off, get your liquid and gas lines, disconnects, a co2 tank, and picnic taps if you like. with that you can keg and serve, albeit simply.
then, you can decide on collar or tower, spend some time reading the "show us your kegerator" thread and the "sizing your freezer for corney kegs" thread, both are loaded with ideas, approaches, techniques, pros and cons to any execution...
perlick is a brand of forward-sealing faucet, they are slightly more expensive than standard faucets but their design is less prone to problem issues, especially in home kegging, mainly because the faucet design minimizes sticking, something standard faucets are infamous for.
regardless of your choice of collar or tower, there are many little things to think about.
temp stabilization within the freezer by use of fans of some sort. i use old computer fans spliced into a 12V DC adapter.
how to keep the taps cold if you go with a tower.
temp controller, johnson or other brand.
wheels or casters for portability
use MLF connectors on your lines instead of basic barbs - when you get to line cleaning, swapping, etc you will appreciate it.
so first off, get your liquid and gas lines, disconnects, a co2 tank, and picnic taps if you like. with that you can keg and serve, albeit simply.
then, you can decide on collar or tower, spend some time reading the "show us your kegerator" thread and the "sizing your freezer for corney kegs" thread, both are loaded with ideas, approaches, techniques, pros and cons to any execution...
perlick is a brand of forward-sealing faucet, they are slightly more expensive than standard faucets but their design is less prone to problem issues, especially in home kegging, mainly because the faucet design minimizes sticking, something standard faucets are infamous for.
regardless of your choice of collar or tower, there are many little things to think about.
temp stabilization within the freezer by use of fans of some sort. i use old computer fans spliced into a 12V DC adapter.
how to keep the taps cold if you go with a tower.
temp controller, johnson or other brand.
wheels or casters for portability
use MLF connectors on your lines instead of basic barbs - when you get to line cleaning, swapping, etc you will appreciate it.
and they are so much easier to clean over the traditional chrome ones
lee_smn
Well-Known Member
Ok, so I will definitely go with the digital temp controller, the perlick faucets, the MLF (i assume that a quick disconnect type?) connectors, and I already decided I was going to make a base with casters. I'll look into the dual regulator. I'm buying four kegs regardless so i was just going to wait til they get here and see what actually fits, and then take it from there. I think I spent four hours on those two posts alone last night, very informative but broad i'll definitely be going there regularly. What about the CO2 tank is 5lbs enough or would I need ten for three kegs. The picnic taps looked real cheap so that seems like a good idea to get me going, what would come after that just the regulator, shanks and taps? seems like i can't go wrong getting the kegs, then the temp controller as i'll need that before i could do anything with it. Thanks guys keep 'em coming! I'm so excited.
Shameless plug...
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ge-7-cf-fcm7suww-keezer-conversion-192208/
If you are doing it on a budget/over time then keep one thing in mind. You can use a temp controlled chest freezer without any customization right out of the gate. Get a keg kit, a temp controller and a chest freezer. With that you can start kegging (if you aren't already) and keep it in the chest freezer while you work on the collar and tower. Just open the lid and use the picnic taps to pour your beer until you have finished everything. Another thing is putting your taps in the collar is cheaper than buying a tower.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ge-7-cf-fcm7suww-keezer-conversion-192208/
If you are doing it on a budget/over time then keep one thing in mind. You can use a temp controlled chest freezer without any customization right out of the gate. Get a keg kit, a temp controller and a chest freezer. With that you can start kegging (if you aren't already) and keep it in the chest freezer while you work on the collar and tower. Just open the lid and use the picnic taps to pour your beer until you have finished everything. Another thing is putting your taps in the collar is cheaper than buying a tower.
5 lbs is plenty, I carb and serve 6 kegs on 5 pounds. In addition to the shanks and tap (faucet) you will need a tail piece, shank nut, and a shank washer.
MFL are a type of quick disconnect the other type is barb. Like Rawlus I too just installed some computer fans for circulation and it will do a lot.
You will want to look at a beverage hose length calculator to make sure you have enough hose to equalize the pressure. Most of the time it is between 5 and 7 feet from keg to tail piece.
You can look at the Sizing your chest freezer forum so you can do a little pre-planning and not just buy kegs and see what happens. You want to make sure your CO2 bottle is always in the upright position so the liquid CO2 doesn't end up in your regulator.
If you need more detail on anything ask some specific questions and we will do our best to point you in the right direction.
MFL are a type of quick disconnect the other type is barb. Like Rawlus I too just installed some computer fans for circulation and it will do a lot.
You will want to look at a beverage hose length calculator to make sure you have enough hose to equalize the pressure. Most of the time it is between 5 and 7 feet from keg to tail piece.
You can look at the Sizing your chest freezer forum so you can do a little pre-planning and not just buy kegs and see what happens. You want to make sure your CO2 bottle is always in the upright position so the liquid CO2 doesn't end up in your regulator.
If you need more detail on anything ask some specific questions and we will do our best to point you in the right direction.
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building over time I'd recommend the first things to get to be temperature controller of your choice (I use a LOVE and "love"[] the small digital display. It makes the whole think look "factory") 2 kegs, a 5# tank with single regulator, gas line, beerline and 2 picnic faucets. This will at least get your serving beer. Then you can worry about building nice presentation all while have beer on tap in the mean time.
] the small digital display. It makes the whole think look "factory") 2 kegs, a 5# tank with single regulator, gas line, beerline and 2 picnic faucets. This will at least get your serving beer. Then you can worry about building nice presentation all while have beer on tap in the mean time.lee_smn
Well-Known Member
I looked at that post I found one that's close but not quite the same, mine is old i can't even find a manufacturer on it.
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| | (compressor hump?) 7 x 18 3/4
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| | bottom 10 1/8 x 18 3/4
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So I think I shouldn't have a problem getting two cornies in the actual bottom and then i'm hoping maybe I could get one in the middle of the shelf (hanging over a bit with strapping holding it in.) I know the third one is a long shot. My thinking is I'll need at least four kegs eventually anyhow so I'll get them, see if i can get three in there and if so great, if not I'll do the picnic tap thing until i can find/afford a better freezer. I need to look up the measurements for the CO2 tank to see if it would fit when there is a keg on that shelf also.
_________________
| | (compressor hump?) 7 x 18 3/4
|_________________|
| | bottom 10 1/8 x 18 3/4
|_________________|
So I think I shouldn't have a problem getting two cornies in the actual bottom and then i'm hoping maybe I could get one in the middle of the shelf (hanging over a bit with strapping holding it in.) I know the third one is a long shot. My thinking is I'll need at least four kegs eventually anyhow so I'll get them, see if i can get three in there and if so great, if not I'll do the picnic tap thing until i can find/afford a better freezer. I need to look up the measurements for the CO2 tank to see if it would fit when there is a keg on that shelf also.
lee_smn
Well-Known Member
man that "drawing" was terrible to begin with then they reformatted it and made it even worse. Height is not an issue, especially since i'll make the collar accordingly. So those connectors, are they on the tank, the kegs, and the regulator? Would I have to make sure they have those types of connectors when I buy them or is that something I can change after?
For the most part home brewers use two types of kegs connections on their kegs. Ball lock and pin lock.
Cornelious Ball lock
Cornelious Pin Lock
Personally, I have seen many more ball lock then pin lock. You would need to get the disconnect for the type of keg that you have. If you go with the MFL disconnects then it will be much easier to change disconnect if the keg is pin or ball. I would try to stick with one type of keg so all the connections are the same.
Cornelious Ball lock
Cornelious Pin Lock
Personally, I have seen many more ball lock then pin lock. You would need to get the disconnect for the type of keg that you have. If you go with the MFL disconnects then it will be much easier to change disconnect if the keg is pin or ball. I would try to stick with one type of keg so all the connections are the same.
