Heady Topper- Can you clone it?

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Anyone know of a place to get T&F Pearl with reasonable or free shipping. None of my LHBS's have it. BrewBrothers and Midwest have pretty pricey shipping for enough for a 10gal batch.
 
Anyone know of a place to get T&F Pearl with reasonable or free shipping. None of my LHBS's have it. BrewBrothers and Midwest have pretty pricey shipping for enough for a 10gal batch.

Contact country malt group for distributor list. Or call your lhbs and request they buy it
 
Right, I get that, but according to this chart, you could use another companies pale ale malt. If I did that, do you think it make that much of a difference?

My biggest reason is cost savings. I get a 10% discount at my LHBS and add in no shipping and I can save about 40% over online prices, so it just doesn't make sense unless it's going to be substantially different for me to buy online.
 
Right, I get that, but according to this chart, you could use another companies pale ale malt. If I did that, do you think it make that much of a difference?

My biggest reason is cost savings. I get a 10% discount at my LHBS and add in no shipping and I can save about 40% over online prices, so it just doesn't make sense unless it's going to be substantially different for me to buy online.

I used Munton's Pearl b/c I couldn't easily get the TF stuff either...came out great. Made correctly, malt flavors are really buried under the hop avalanche in this beer, so IMO a good quality UK pale malt will suffice.

Others may disagree, but it is really a personal choice. Chances are the exact hop varieties/additions are close but not spot on either. Until we get the recipe from Kimmich himself, this is really just a reductive series of approximations.
 
Thanks. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something that made one of these exact malt brands necessary.

I'm all for buying brand name stuff when there is a quality difference. Like I'll buy Heinz over Hunts or a generic brand, but I'm not sure I'd spend 40% more :)
 
Heady Topper Clone Recipe Attempt 4 from http://www.signpostbrewing.com/heady-topper-clone-brew-4-0/

Batch Size: 5.00 gal

Boil Size: 6.47

11lb 4oz Pearl Malt (84.9%)- SRM 2.4
12 oz Caramalt (5.7%)- SRM 17
12 oz White Wheat (5.7%)- SRM 1.7
8 oz Turbinado Sugar (3.8%)- Added at flameout.
Mash at 150 degrees for 60 minutes.

Boil Time: 90 min

10.00 ml** *Hopshot- Boil 90.0 min- 117.8 IBUs
1.00 oz*** Simcoe[13.00 %] Boil 5.0 min-8.3 IBUs
0.50 oz** *Apollo- Boil 5.0 min -4.0 IBUs
1.00 oz** *Columbus [14.00 %] Boil 0.0 min – 0.0 IBUs
2.00 oz** *Simcoe [13.00 %] Boil 0.0 min -0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz** *Columbus [14.00 %] Aroma Steep 30.0 min-0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz** *Simcoe [13.00 %] Aroma Steep 30.0 min-0.0 IBUs
1.00oz** *Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] Aroma Steep 30.0 min-0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz** *Centennial [10.50 %] Aroma Steep 30.0 min- 0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz** *Apollo [12.50 %] Aroma Steep 30.0 min- 0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz** *Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] Dry Hop 8.0 Days-0.0 IBUs
2.00 oz** *Simcoe [13.00 %] Dry Hop 8.0 Days -0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz** *Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] Dry Hop 8.0 Days-0.0 IBUs
1.00 oz** *Centennial [10.50 %] Dry Hop 8.0 Days-0.0 IBUs
0.50 oz** *Apollo [17.00 %] Dry Hop 8.0 Days-0.0 IBUs

Split dry hop in half and add half on day 14 and day 21. Carb on day 25.


Beer Profile
Est Original Gravity: 1.073 SG** *Measured Original Gravity: 1.073 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.014 SG** *Measured Final Gravity: 1.010 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7.8 %** *Actual Alcohol by Vol: 8.5 %
Bitterness: 130.7 IBUs** *Calories: 249.4 kcal/12oz
Est Color: 6.4 SRM

http://www.signpostbrewing.com/heady-topper-clone-brew-4-0/

I know I decided on dry hop day to cut down the Columbus from 1.50 ounce to 1 ounce. I think I also replaced that half ounce with something else, but I can't remember. I remember going up to 0.75 ounces of something in dryhop 1, it was either Amarillo or Centennial. The 2nd stage was 1 oz Simcoe, 0.5 Columbus, 0.5 Amarillo, 0.5 Centennial, and 0.25 Apollo though.

I thought it would take A LOT more than 13oz but by god vegan YOUVE DONE IT!!!.
This is a great day for mankind, please people brew, BREW your batches and report back!!
I know what im doing this weekend =] and to think my last 6-7 batches were all IPAs, i got a question....

Are hops addictive?!:rockin::mug::tank::fro::cross::ban::ban:
 
Everyone here had a hand in this recipe as did folks from other sites, John, friends of his, and random photographers that visited the cannery. A true community effort.
 
It's anyone willing to do a test with the different brands of pearl, making small amount of wort and sampling for differences?

The malt flavor of HT is very specific (when you walk in the cannery that's one of the major aromas) and key to a correct clone.
 
My post was meant to determine whether it's okay to use other brands of pearl in the recipe, we already know T&F is correct.
 
This may sound dumb, but so be it. Iam not a fan of using hop shots, just the part of me that Luke's organic things and doing things myself.

I have plenty of hops I can throw in FWH, as long as I put in equivalent IBUs it is okay right?
 
Not a dumb question because I'm thinking the same thing.

Is Northern Brewer the only one that sells it? If so, it's $8 to ship a $2 product to me. I guess I'm going to come off as a cheap ass in this thread, but 4x the price of the product for shipping is a bit crazy.
 
hoptech.com and yakimavalleyhops.com both sell hop concentrate. I don't think it's exactly the same as Hopshot, but they'll do the same thing. The shipping prices look more reasonable when you order a bunch of other stuff. Since I'm a little hop-heavy at the moment, I'll probably just use whatever I have that's high-alpha and not slated for another use.
 
Man, I just wish I could bring myself to buy a product called Hop Jizz. I think a 15 year old stoner kid would have probably come up with a more tasteful and mature product name :drunk:
 
bottlebomber said:
Man, I just wish I could bring myself to buy a product called Hop Jizz. I think a 15 year old stoner kid would have probably come up with a more tasteful and mature product name :drunk:

Haha I feel the same. I'm going to give in and get it, but it's cheesy.
 
For you guys looking to sub, a few years ago John tried three batches with Pearl, MO, and two row. He said the 2-row was bad (sweet), the MO was OK but lacked crispness, and Pearl was best. Funny he doesn't like 2-row because of sweetness yet Heady has a noticeable sweetness to it from the malt.

The Heady Topper has kicked and I don’t know if it will be back before it is out in cans. Its next appearance might coincide with its debut. I played around with the malt bill a lot over the last three batches. For the most part, the drinkers knew nothing of these changes, but it was very interesting. I started these experiments because of the 2010/2011 barley crop coming out of England .

Last summers weather created problems with these barleys, mostly with haze forming properties. You may have noticed the increased haze in most of my beers. This problem becomes magnified when you brew a strong and highly hopped beer. There were three test batches. One of the batches was made with Maris Otter malt. I liked it well enough, but it lacked the crispness of the Pearl malt I usually use. The next batch was made with Great Western Pale Malt. This one I hated. It had hints of the “sweet” malt flavor that I find so prominent in a lot of interpretations of this style. The third batch was brewed with my usual base malt, Pearl , but I added an enzyme to the mash which breaks up beta-glucan. This beer had the best flavor, but the enzyme had no effect on the level of haze in the finished beer.
 
I find Pearl to be more sweet than MO, and 2 row to be the sweetest honestly.

Obviously it's interesting that he noted that most drinkers didn't notice any changes when he made them in the base malt.. The only person that made notice was the guy who changed the grain sacks.
 
FATC1TY said:
I find Pearl to be more sweet than MO, and 2 row to be the sweetest honestly.

Obviously it's interesting that he noted that most drinkers didn't notice any changes when he made them in the base malt.. The only person that made notice was the guy who changed the grain sacks.

I find the same. When I first started AG brewing, I was using only MO for the first 5 or 6 brews. Then I made a Pliny clone with Rahr 2-row. Tasting the wort, I thought I had gotten really great efficiency or something because the flavor of the wort was so sweet. After doing the calculations I found that wasn't the case, it was just that much sweeter tasting. Weird how that works.
 
Whatever dryness he's getting from Pearl is just covered up by the Caramalt. I wonder if Caramalt+Pale would be too sweet.
 
I wonder if MO and adjunct pale would be similar to pearl and caramalt grain bill in flavor...
Could be a great substitute.
 
Just got all my stuff for this brew coming. I'm just going to go with C15 for my first attempt instead of Caramalt, I needed a lot of other brew supplies so I just went with a HBS that had the things I needed at a good price and Pearl as well. I'll post my progress to the thread.
 
Caramalt may be the most important ingredient in the beer. I've only ever gotten something close with caravienne or caramalt.
 
Finally getting on the train here. I cultured conan and stepped it three times. Ready to brew tomorrow. My question is this. How can I be sure my yeast is good? Check for off smell? Something else that would make it look "bad". I was sanitary as possible with everything. Just a want to be sure before i pitch. Don't want a 10 gallon batch of prohibition beer in my fermenters. Any input is appreciated. And Vegan, you rock! Thanks for all your effort!
 
theveganbrewer said:
Caramalt may be the most important ingredient in the beer. I've only ever gotten something close with caravienne or caramalt.

All have to go back and find that link for it..
 
This may sound dumb, but so be it. Iam not a fan of using hop shots, just the part of me that Luke's organic things and doing things myself.

I have plenty of hops I can throw in FWH, as long as I put in equivalent IBUs it is okay right?

I've heard bittering hops do not matter as much, but I know they impart some flavors to the beer. I would think using a sub for the 90 minute hop extract would not be a huge deal. I would not change it to a FWH.

I'm thinking of using the equivalent amount of IBUs in apollo to substitute for the hops shot/hop jizz. It should give me the same bitterness but will it change the taste/aroma?
 
I've been following this thread since the first one. I did vegans 4.0 clone about 3 weeks ago. I'm doing the 2nd dry hop tonight. It smells delicious . My og came out around 1.078 and my fg was 1.012. Cold crashing this weekend and carbing next week. Thank you for all your work vegan.
 
Whoa, this turned really cat pissy over the last couple days. Not sure if it's just where I drew off the keg, or if the Simcoe is too much in the dry hop. Consider yourselves warned! I like it, but it might be wise to go with 1.5 ounces Simcoe if you're going to drink it super fresh.
 
My Simconan pale ale gets dry hopped with 2 oz and at first is like that, but quickly turns into something beautiful after a week cold conditioning/carbing.
 
What numbers are you using for your Hopshot? I'm trying to input it into Beersmith, and to generate your IBU of 117.8, I need to use an alpha acid % of 6.62%, and 1 mL = 1 oz. Does that sound right?

Heady Topper Clone Recipe Attempt 4 from http://www.signpostbrewing.com/heady-topper-clone-brew-4-0/

[snip]

I know I decided on dry hop day to cut down the Columbus from 1.50 ounce to 1 ounce. I think I also replaced that half ounce with something else, but I can't remember. I remember going up to 0.75 ounces of something in dryhop 1, it was either Amarillo or Centennial. The 2nd stage was 1 oz Simcoe, 0.5 Columbus, 0.5 Amarillo, 0.5 Centennial, and 0.25 Apollo though.
 
What numbers are you using for your Hopshot? I'm trying to input it into Beersmith, and to generate your IBU of 117.8, I need to use an alpha acid % of 6.62%, and 1 mL = 1 oz. Does that sound right?

Not sure, http://brewbrothers.biz/Hop-Jizz-Extract-Calculator is what I use, and make sure you put in preboil gravity and post boil size. Should be 5 gallons and 1.068 or something like that.
 
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