First 2 batches have both finished too high

I now have 2 batches under my belt, and they both taste great, but finished way too high.

I read a ton before attempting my first batch, and followed every direction to a T. I monitered all my temperatures during the process, pitched when I should have, and kept the fermentation temperature between 62 and 64 (well within the ranges for my yeast) for both batches. I aerated the wort, and rehydrated the yeast before pitching. My OGs were almost dead on both times.

Both times the fermentation took off... I pitched the yeast around 11pm, and the airlock was bubbling away when I was up for work around 7am the next morning.

For the amber ale (OG 1.051) I let it ferment for 9 days before bottling. I may have jumped the gun on this one, as I bottled without taking 3 hydo readings in a row. FG was 1.020.

The IPA (OG 1.060) has been in my fermenter for 11 days now. I've taken hydro readings 4 days in a row, and it is definitely done at a FG of 1.020. It should have been 1.014, is there any way I can squeeze those last few abv% points out of this batch? It was pretty expensive for the amount of LME that went into it and I would really like to get my moneys worth.

Is there anything else I can do to keep this from happening in the future? Like I said the beers tasted amazing and I'm still pretty happy with the results but I would really like to get my FGs up to where they should be. I'm going to be starting 2 new batches this week and I'd like to avoid it this time around.

Let me know if you need recipes, or any other info. FWIW both of these beers used Amber LME from the same LHBS.

The fermentability of extracts varies, but in many cases bringing the temperature up to the high-end of the yeast's range at the end of the ferment will reduce the gravity a few more points.

Ok ill give that a shot for my next batch. How far into fermentation should I try it? My house stays around 60 degrees so the fermentations have been running long.

What type of yeast was used?

Raise the temp gradually to around 70 and swirl it several times to rouse the yeast. If that doesn't do it your LME may have had a lot of unfermentable sugars, but I think you can add some enzymes to break down more of those and get a few more points fermentation. IIRC Beano is a recommended product for this purpose but I've never tried it so do some research.

Beano will take forever and will most likely finish incredibly dry. You can probably throw out the results (scientifically, not the product!) of the first batch given that you really have no way of knowing if it was done fermenting.

As for the second one, you missed a little bit. It happens. I'd bring the temp up for a week then go ahead and bottle as is.

Louielizard said:

What type of yeast was used?

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Key question! If by any chance it was Munton's (but not their premium gold), that's your answer right there. That's what came standard with the first two Midwest kits I brewed, and it turns out that the Munton's website says it's not for use in all-malt batches (ie. without sugar or something easily fermentable).

Safeale 05 I believe.

I wrapped a heat blank around the fermenter which is slowly bringing the temp up. Going to invest in a space heater tomorrow.

You're not as off as you might be led to believe. Not like you're up at 1030. You may have some sweet lingering tastes after two weeks in bottle, but after 4 or 5...you're gonna be real happy I'm guessing.

Good work on your first few brews.

atromic said:

Going to invest in a space heater tomorrow.

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A much better solution, IMO, is an aquarium heater in a water bath. Excellent temp control and lots of thermal mass so things change nice and slow.

Thats an awesome idea. Any reason I cant put the heater directly into the wort instead of a water bath?

atromic said:

Thats an awesome idea. Any reason I cant put the heater directly into the wort instead of a water bath?

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I would worry about sanitation and the temperature of the wort that's directly in contact with the heater. Go get a big plastic tub and an aquarium heater (I recommend Marineland Stealth model), put the bucket/carboy in it with a fermometer attached and you're good to go.