BIAB Brewing (with pics)

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Here's a BIAB process problem I would love assistance on:

I have a 15 gal kettle paired with 1 burner.
I plan on making 5.25 gal BIAB batches.
I understand the basics about calculating grain absorption and boil-off, but I'm unclear one thing.

My question is - with one burner - what's the best way to prep my hot sparge water to rinse the grain/get to my pre-boil volume?

Is it advisable to get an Igloo cooler and heat a few gallons of sparge water - ahead of the BIAB mash?

I really want to avoid moving my brew kettle off the burner once I have 7-8 gallons of wort in there.
 
15 gal is more than enough for 5 gal full (no sparge per se) BIAB batches :) I'd recommend to try it, that way first:)
But if you'd like to sparge, do it with max 2-3 gal water. So you can heat it up with some kitchen electric kettle. Prepare it just before mashout & pour it to the other bucket/pot etc. --->bag with grains=dunk sparge. But yeah, some running with hot water is involved = caution!
 
I do BIAB in a 15 gal pot. I don't sparge. I take the bag out after the mash is done and place it (quickly) in a strainer that's suspended over my plastic bucket primary. Let it drip dry, then take a binder clip or something similar and twist the bag and clip it to pull more liquid out. You can be gentle and only do it once or twice, and it's mostly waiting so you can prep your boil while you're doing it.
 
czarsketch said:
I do BIAB in a 15 gal pot. I don't sparge. I take the bag out after the mash is done and place it (quickly) in a strainer that's suspended over my plastic bucket primary. Let it drip dry, then take a binder clip or something similar and twist the bag and clip it to pull more liquid out. You can be gentle and only do it once or twice, and it's mostly waiting so you can prep your boil while you're doing it.
Click to expand...

And then you use that to add back into your kettle to hit your pre-boil volume?
 
Keep it simple for your first batch...since you have plenty of room in the keggle, add your grains to 7-8 gallons of strike water at 160 degrees and wrap in a few blankets for an hour, pull the bag and boil to get a 5 gallon batch...simple and done....cheers!

Mashout IMHO is optional.
 
Pointyskull said:
And then you use that to add back into your kettle to hit your pre-boil volume?
Click to expand...

exactly..

with the 15 gallon kettle you should rally be doing full volume BIAB.. you have the room for it. I started with a 10 gallon doing full volume, now I use a keggle and can do 10 gallon normal gravity or low gravity beers. Or HUGE 5 gallon beers with no problem. You can either stick the grain bag in a second pot to drain as mentioned before or if you have a pulley setup just hang the bag over the kettle and let it drain. If you are doing a beer that calls for FWH (first wort hopping) this would be a perfect time to add those while waiting for the bag to drain (its how I do it, works great).
 
It is all about the crush!

MY 1st 2 batches were from Austin Homebrew and i requested a "double crush" on my grains. I am not sure that was every done or if they just didn't have the mill set fine enough. Either way the grains just did not look like the were milled finely enough but what did I know? This was my first All-Grain order after all. I got around 55% efficiency both times and was becoming rather disappointed about making the switch from extract.

I finally decided to get my grain from the local homebrew store. After they milled the grains once I asked to take a look at them and they were NOTICEABLE better crushed then my previous orders. Well on this brew day I got 83% efficiency and am confident moving forward.
 
MikeyLXT said:
It is all about the crush!

MY 1st 2 batches were from Austin Homebrew and i requested a "double crush" on my grains. I am not sure that was every done or if they just didn't have the mill set fine enough. Either way the grains just did not look like the were milled finely enough but what did I know? This was my first All-Grain order after all. I got around 55% efficiency both times and was becoming rather disappointed about making the switch from extract.

I finally decided to get my grain from the local homebrew store. After they milled the grains once I asked to take a look at them and they were NOTICEABLE better crushed then my previous orders. Well on this brew day I got 83% efficiency and am confident moving forward.
Click to expand...

I've found crush is a major factor. I used to double crush but at a fairly wide gap and got efficiencies in the low 60's. Finally got a feeler gauge and dropped my gap to .030". I only single crush because its so fine I'm afraid I'd make a huge mess trying to pass it through again. With the single pass though I'm always in the high 70's.
 
Pointyskull said:
Here's a BIAB process problem I would love assistance on:

I have a 15 gal kettle paired with 1 burner.
I plan on making 5.25 gal BIAB batches.
I understand the basics about calculating grain absorption and boil-off, but I'm unclear one thing.

My question is - with one burner - what's the best way to prep my hot sparge water to rinse the grain/get to my pre-boil volume?

Is it advisable to get an Igloo cooler and heat a few gallons of sparge water - ahead of the BIAB mash?

I really want to avoid moving my brew kettle off the burner once I have 7-8 gallons of wort in there.
Click to expand...

You are way, way overthinking the process! You have enough kettle to not need a sparge at all...simply add all the water and grain to your kettle and BIAB and mash and pull the bag...done.
 
Yes! Your main concerns should be: fine crush, water calculations, right pH and temp range after mash-in. That's really it!
 
czarsketch said:
I do BIAB in a 15 gal pot. I don't sparge. I take the bag out after the mash is done and place it (quickly) in a strainer that's suspended over my plastic bucket primary.
Click to expand...

Be careful with this method...the unboiled wort straight from the mash is loaded with lactobacillus. Any that doesn't get vanquished by boiling or cleaning (i.e. any left in your primary) could infect the whole batch.

I have a separate bucket for collecting drip runoff from my BIAB. In general, except for my kettle and spoon, no equipment from pre-boil is allowed anywhere near my post-boil equipment.

One batch of sour porter was enough to convince me :smack:
 
Franc103 said:
Be careful with this method...the unboiled wort straight from the mash is loaded with lactobacillus. Any that doesn't get vanquished by boiling or cleaning (i.e. any left in your primary) could infect the whole batch.

I have a separate bucket for collecting drip runoff from my BIAB. In general, except for my kettle and spoon, no equipment from pre-boil is allowed anywhere near my post-boil equipment.

One batch of sour porter was enough to convince me :smack:
Click to expand...

I don't BIAB anymore, but when I did I always strained in to primary buckets. I now do traditional AG. I always lauter in to my primary buckets so I can measure volume collected. I've never had an infection. The key is to just make sure you clean and sanitize very well.
 
MikeyLXT said:
It is all about the crush!

MY 1st 2 batches were from Austin Homebrew and i requested a "double crush" on my grains. I am not sure that was every done or if they just didn't have the mill set fine enough.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I was just going to place an order with Austin because they indicated they would doublecrush on request (whereas Northern Brewer said "maybe").

That begs the next question:
I've looked at mills for home use. I don't want to spend a fortune, but I'm looking for suggestions to assist in my accurate crushes....
 
Lowest cost option is a corona mill for about 25 bucks...next would be a roller mill starting around a hundred and upwards. Many many opinions on mills around here so do a little reading would be my suggestion.
 
Pointyskull said:
Interesting. I was just going to place an order with Austin because they indicated they would doublecrush on request (whereas Northern Brewer said "maybe").

That begs the next question:
I've looked at mills for home use. I don't want to spend a fortune, but I'm looking for suggestions to assist in my accurate crushes....
Click to expand...

buy a mill... either a corona mill or a barley crusher of monster mill or what ever else you run across. the important thing is one you have a mill and set it up like you want, you will always get the crush you desire. this leads to being able to accurately reproduce a recipe and to accurately predict your efficiency when designing a recipe.

Also join a home brew club. get in on group grain buys. this will save you a LOT of money. I just picked up a 55lb sack of 2row for $33 and a 55lb sack of Munich for $37.
 
Finally getting ready to order what I need for my BIAB set up. I did see a thread on an eBIAB system where a pump was added to circulate the wort during the mash and mash out. Of course, I believe anyway... that this is to help increase efficiency and to help maintain even temps throughout the mash process. If it does, is it worth it? Or does the grain crush have more to do with that? Or am I just being to anal about all of this. I am aiming to have the most consistent setup that I can have, and have already come up with a temperature controlled fermentation chamber so I can have those temps dialed in as best as I can. But then again... maybe I am getting carried away.

Any and all comments are appreciated. Thanks!
 
Sure you can build a recirculating BIAB system, but you will likely need to ad a heat source to maintain temperature with the complicated recirculating going on. I would advise taking some baby steps and completing a few batches at least with just insulting the kettle. Sometimes a complicated system can fail miserably while a simple one produces excellent beer. In the example you saw with recirculation, they likely also had contolled electric temperature....this will not really add efficiency but precise temperature control and repeatability making consistent beers. I would say not to focus on a blingin system but rather to understand the process. I like the old saying, "a good brewer could make beer in his hat" cheers!
 
wilserbrewer said:
Sure you can build a recirculating BIAB system, but you will likely need to ad a heat source to maintain temperature with the complicated recirculating going on. I would advise taking some baby steps and completing a few batches at least with just insulting the kettle. Sometimes a complicated system can fail miserably while a simple one produces excellent beer. In the example you saw with recirculation, they likely also had contolled electric temperature....this will not really add efficiency but precise temperature control and repeatability making consistent beers. I would say not to focus on a blingin system but rather to understand the process. I like the old saying, "a good brewer could make beer in his hat" cheers!
Click to expand...

Yes, those were kind of my thoughts as well, I have read a lot of posts for BIAB systems and experiences, and the only one that comes to mind that recirculated was that e-system, and yes... it was temperature controlled. So if it doesn't really add to efficiency, then I don't see the point since it is my understanding that a well insulated pot will only lose a degree or two. Wish I had a local mentor, but what the heck... I'll just be forging on.

Thanks for the reply.
 
I built my pot to be able to recirculate. I've had everything ready to go now for the last two batches, but it's just to easy to do without reciculating so I haven't tried it yet. The insulation I wrap around my pot when it gets up to temp can't handle the heat when I fire up the burner so I've just not recirculated. I might try it next time without the insulation in case I have to add some heat.
 
I was looking to create a mock false-bottom of sorts to keep my brew bag from hitting the bottom of the kettle.
I picked up two circular bbq grill grates (new), but now I'm wondering it that is going elevate the bag enough. I had no luck locating a colander that was either solid and/or wide enough.

Or am I just overthinking this?
 
Pointyskull said:
Or am I just overthinking this?
Click to expand...

Yes, IMO you are overthinking it....way :)

1. A mashout or applying heat while the bag is in the kettle is OPTIONAL IMHO.

2. Applying gentle heat and stirring will very likely not damage the bag.

3. If you want to use a grill grate have at it, but just don't think that gives you the right to blast the pot w/ 180,000 btu's with the bag in it. You only need the bag to be ever so slightly off the bottom of the kettle so that there is wort b/w the bag and pot bottom.

I would suggest gentle heating and stirring regardless of what you have in the bottom of the kettle. When people report a burnt bag, I would guess they cranked the heat up and left the bag smashed on the bottom of the kettle under a large grain bill with nowhere for the heat to, gentle heat and stir!

One guy simply set a dinner plate in the bottom of his pot and fished it out before the boil...maybe not the best but creative.
 
Pointyskull said:
I was looking to create a mock false-bottom of sorts to keep my brew bag from hitting the bottom of the kettle.
I picked up two circular bbq grill grates (new), but now I'm wondering it that is going elevate the bag enough. I had no luck locating a colander that was either solid and/or wide enough.

Or am I just overthinking this?
Click to expand...

I have direct fired my kettle many times with the bag in and nothing under it. as long as you stir constantly you should have no problem. However if you feel the need for something under it. as long as the grates give a small amount of room they'll work. or get a stainless vegetable steamer... invert it and stick it in the bottom of the kettle
 
Pointyskull said:
I was looking to create a mock false-bottom of sorts to keep my brew bag from hitting the bottom of the kettle.
I picked up two circular bbq grill grates (new), but now I'm wondering it that is going elevate the bag enough. I had no luck locating a colander that was either solid and/or wide enough.

Or am I just overthinking this?
Click to expand...

I always direct fire during the mash but like everyone said - just low heat.

I don't usually stir while heating, I "bob" the bag up and down. Works like a charm and I've never burned/scorched the bag.
 
After a few days I've made it through the entire thread....tons of good info - thanks to all!

I'm looking to upgrade from my 5 gal pot and based on reading it seems a 15 gal pot makes the most sense so I can do big 5 gal batches or a 10 gal session.

Based on some future stand thoughts I plan to get a pot that has the steamer basket.

Because they sit 2"-3" above the bottom of the kettle, is there any concern during the mash that potentially a rather significant portion of your water is not in contact with the grain bag?
 
anderson0196 said:
Because they sit 2"-3" above the bottom of the kettle, is there any concern during the mash that potentially a rather significant portion of your water is not in contact with the grain bag?
Click to expand...

One of the reasons I don't like baskets. Say for example 15g pot w/ a basket being used for a 5g batch. W/ 2-3 inches under the basket that is a large portion not in the mash.

"Just say no" to baskets...:confused:
 
I have been using a bag I got for X-mas and the thing works great. I brew on a concrete patio underneath my 2nd floor deck so it gives me an easy way to hoist the grains.

7DD2T7y.jpg


BTW i got the bag from here. For the construction quality $35 is a great deal. Once you factor in time and materials this quality bag is well worth the cost imo.

http://www.bagbrewer.com/order-a-bag.html
 
wilserbrewer said:
"Just say no" to baskets...:confused:
Click to expand...

That's what I was wondering about. At the same time I see benefits to the basket...

- no worries about bag breaking....cheaper bag construction ok
- solid handle for hoist/pulley setup
- clearance for thermometer, dip tube, etc or electric element down the road
- no worries about scorching

Any others to weigh in on your thoughts?

How big of a deal is that "dead space"? My major concern would be with big 5 gal batches. Are we talking a little loss of efficiency or something more significant?
 
anderson0196 said:
That's what I was wondering about. At the same time I see benefits to the basket...

- no worries about bag breaking....cheaper bag construction ok
- solid handle for hoist/pulley setup
- clearance for thermometer, dip tube, etc or electric element down the road
- no worries about scorching

Any others to weigh in on your thoughts?

How big of a deal is that "dead space"? My major concern would be with big 5 gal batches. Are we talking a little loss of efficiency or something more significant?
Click to expand...

I use an 11 gallon Bayou Classic aluminum pot with the steamer basket that came with it. The basket sits about an inch from the bottom. I have been hitting in the 70-75% range consistently. I stick a ladder over the pot and use a tiedown strap with hook to hoist the basket out and let it hover over the pot. Pretty much the same setup as the OP in this thread.

Oh and I got some voile fabric and basically line the basket and use clips to fasten it to the basket edge. One day I will get it sewn into a bag to fit.

Works great for me so far.
 
Admittedly I haven't used my setup yet, but I've got a 15 gal Bayou classic with the basket. Most of my BIAB batches start with 8-9 gallons of water. After displacement of the grain, the pot is going to be at least 2/3 full. With as thin as BIAB mashes are, I don't see how a couple of inches of dead space at the bottom would really affect anything negatively. That's 9 inches of liquid volume for the grain to fit into. Unless you're trying to cram 25 lbs of grain in there it should all be submerged.
Maybe I'll change my mind after brewing, but the benefit of being able to lift all that grain and the bag out of there with the basket sure looks like a big positive to me.
 
anderson0196 said:
I'm looking to upgrade from my 5 gal pot and based on reading it seems a 15 gal pot makes the most sense so I can do big 5 gal batches or a 10 gal session.

Based on some future stand thoughts I plan to get a pot that has the steamer basket.

Because they sit 2"-3" above the bottom of the kettle, is there any concern during the mash that potentially a rather significant portion of your water is not in contact with the grain bag?
Click to expand...

OK, 2-3 inches in a 15 gal pot is likely 2-3 gallons of strike water that is not in the bag, for a 5 gallon batch that is too much IMO. Just my opinion again, but a well constructed bag with a drawstring or simply wrapping a rope or cord aroung the top of the bag is plenty strong for hoisting a bag. The voile is very strong without the basket and can easily suppor any grain bill...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/biab-polyester-voile-strength-test-384445/

Sure the basket provides an easy handle, but the bag can be very simply rigged for lifting out of the kettle...I guess I am a "less is more" type brewer. I just don't see the advantage of a basket when it can impede the mash and free access to the grain for all the water.

Also, a bag should be tapered or teardrop shaped to direct runoff back into the kettle. A well fitting bag does not need the basket to keep shape to direct the runoff back into th kettle. As for clearance to an element or thermometer, a bag will conform around such things, with a little care, of course. As for heating, I see no valid reason to heat with the bag in the pot, but if you do, a pizza screen in the bottom is more than you need. Heating with a bag alone is fine if the heat is gentle, and you stir a little bit. The disadvantages outweigh the advantages IMHO.

For me, a basket is like training wheels...cheers and to each their own.
 
I am new to BIAB but I would say that a basket is a nice option to have if you’re going electric because it keeps the grain and the bag off the element. It’s not that important, but only for peace of mind. I would worry that a leak would form during a heavy mash or a vigorous stir. Still for a really heavy mash gas fired BIAB might be better, simply because you have more grain in contact with the wort.

The reality is that it’s all subjective. Either method will work; one just has to understand the limitations of each method. Peace of mind. Scorching, leaking, or a heavy mash for those big beers.
 
First BIAB batch completed - whew! :rockin:

Did a 5 gal cream ale (from Austin Homebrew) to which I added some sweet orange peel, as well as their Brewvint Alcohol Boost - which boosted my OG a bit.

Base kit OG called for 1.052, but with the Brewvint I figured that would bump up a bit. My pre-boil OG was 1.042, while the post-boil came in at 1.061. Mash temps at 150 (per the kit instructions).

Not 100% sure how to figure efficiency, but I'm hoping it is within range since the OG is about where I was expecting.

This was also my first batch out of the kitchen and in the garage with the Blichmann, so I really felt a bit more frantic this first time. No major tragedies, and we'll see how things go....
 

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