Any advise for a single kettle system?

After 2 weeks I finally got my power quote done, it is scheduled to be installed next Saturday. I will have a 50 amp (GFCI) sub panel in my brewing area that will house a 240 volt 30 amp circuit, and a 120 volt 20 amp circuit. Thanks to a lot of helpful advise I got in here I was able to get this first step accomplished.

My next step is to electrify my stainless steel 9 gallon Bayou Classic kettle. I am going to use it to heat the strike water for my 10 gallon Igloo cooler MLT. And I am also going to use it for my boil kettle as well.

Basically I am going to use a 5500 watt element controlled by an Auber 2352 PID. I am going to use a modified (one element, and no pumps) version of the attached wiring diagram from P-J.

I believe that this should be a simple first step into the world of electric brewing. If I can successfully take this first step and be able to brew beer without propane and all the associated carbon monoxide dangers I'll be pretty happy. That way I can brew beer as I take my time and work on building a nice dual element/dual pump control box system.

So if anyone has any advise or any tips on this next step I would appreciate hearing it. Thanks!

I have a keggle and do the same thing in the winter. I heat the mash water, dump it into the cooler and mash in. About 20 minutes left in the mash, I will heat the sparge water and have it at 170 when I start sparging.
You can then do a couple things, transfer your hot liquor to another container and fly sparge or batch sparge. I then have the cooler draining into 5 gal pails and dump them into the kettle.

I'm in the same boat. This is my plan:

1. Heat strike water in kettle
2. Pump strike water to MLT while mixing in grains
3. Cover MLT and top-off BK with water. Heat BK to mash temp.
4. Recirculate mash through HX in kettle (25-50' 1/2" ss tubing - setup like immersion chiller) for temp control if needed
5. Raise temp in BK to mash out
6. Move HX to HLT and pump water in kettle to HLT
7. Pump through HX to sparge arm in MLT. Drain to BK (2-tier setup)
8. Boil

First step for me is to install a weldless valve and element setup like Kal's in the kettle. The only reason I haven't started yet is because I don't want to make a temporary control panel and have to redo it once I move up to the full system. I guess I could get the full size panel and just not paint it so I can cut additional holes out later. Undecided.

I just re-read and see that you don't want to use the pump yet, but I still think you have a good plan there. I think the wiring diagram would work just fine excluding the parts you don't want. You probably already know about this, but the Auber project box is fairly cheap and would fit all the stuff you want.