Need RIMS build help!

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

erikrocks

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2009
Messages
564
Reaction score
19
Location
Ithaca, NY
I'm about to celebrate my 1 year brewing anniversary by building a RIMS tube/controller. I've read the RIMS For Dummies, Electrical Primer, and a variety of other RIMS-flavored threads.

Here's what I have:
photo65.JPG


110v/1500w LD element
RTD 2" probe
25A SSR w/heatsink
PID is Auber SYL-2362

I'm pretty well versed in normal household electrical wiring, but I've never done this stuff. Here are some questions:

1. I have a decent amount of 12g wire around. I understand it's overkill, but can I just use normal 12g throughout the enclosure (element to SSR, SSR to PID) and bypass the need for fuses, or do I need to get some sort of special wire and use fuses between gauges? Is the 12g just to thick to use with the smaller PID/SSR screws?

2. I'm plugging this into a 20a GFI and use a 20a plug. I use 12g wire when running into 20a. Why am I reading that people are using 10g cord to plug into 20a outlets?

3. What are people using to protect the electrical connection on the element screws? I've only seen a couple of pictures of this covered with a PVC cap+silicone/JB Weld. Any other ideas?

I know I have more questions, and I plan on documenting my build for other newbies after I gather enough info to actually put this thing together. Thanks for all the great info I've already accumulated!
 
i'm about to celebrate my 1 year brewing anniversary by building a rims tube/controller. I've read the rims for dummies, electrical primer, and a variety of other rims-flavored threads.

Here's what i have:
photo65.jpg


110v/1500w ld element
rtd 2" probe
25a ssr w/heatsink
pid is auber syl-2362

i'm pretty well versed in normal household electrical wiring, but i've never done this stuff. Here are some questions:

1. I have a decent amount of 12g wire around. I understand it's overkill, but can i just use normal 12g throughout the enclosure (element to ssr, ssr to pid) and bypass the need for fuses, or do i need to get some sort of special wire and use fuses between gauges? Is the 12g just to thick to use with the smaller pid/ssr screws?

is it stranded wire or romex? It was recommended to me to use stranded wire. You'll probably want to use about 16 gauge machine wire (stranded) for the low voltage stuff like the pid to ssr. It's just a lot easier to work with.. i would recommend a fuse to protect the pid. See below for ssr to element.

2. I'm plugging this into a 20a gfi and use a 20a plug. I use 12g wire when running into 20a. Why am i reading that people are using 10g cord to plug into 20a outlets?

i use a 12 gauge power cord to my control box and from the ssr to the element and it works fine.

3. What are people using to protect the electrical connection on the element screws? I've only seen a couple of pictures of this covered with a pvc cap+silicone/jb weld. Any other ideas?

i think sawdust guy used liquid electrical tape with good results. I used the spray on rubber insulation. Others pot the connections in low dielectric epoxy.

i know i have more questions, and i plan on documenting my build for other newbies after i gather enough info to actually put this thing together. Thanks for all the great info i've already accumulated!

123
 
Yeah, it's 12g romex. Heavy stuff to work with.

So I should go 12g cord to element and ssr. From ssr to .25a fuse to 16g stranded to pid?

I do remember reading sawdust guy used liquid electrical tape. I'll try that on the end of the element.

Thanks for the help.
 
I'm about to celebrate my 1 year brewing anniversary by building a RIMS tube/controller. I've read the RIMS For Dummies, Electrical Primer, and a variety of other RIMS-flavored threads.

Here's what I have:
photo65.JPG


110v/1500w LD element
RTD 2" probe
25A SSR w/heatsink
PID is Auber SYL-2362

I'm pretty well versed in normal household electrical wiring, but I've never done this stuff. Here are some questions:

1. I have a decent amount of 12g wire around. I understand it's overkill, but can I just use normal 12g throughout the enclosure (element to SSR, SSR to PID) and bypass the need for fuses, or do I need to get some sort of special wire and use fuses between gauges? Is the 12g just to thick to use with the smaller PID/SSR screws?

2. I'm plugging this into a 20a GFI and use a 20a plug. I use 12g wire when running into 20a. Why am I reading that people are using 10g cord to plug into 20a outlets?

3. What are people using to protect the electrical connection on the element screws? I've only seen a couple of pictures of this covered with a PVC cap+silicone/JB Weld. Any other ideas?

I know I have more questions, and I plan on documenting my build for other newbies after I gather enough info to actually put this thing together. Thanks for all the great info I've already accumulated!

Here is a few pictures of the RIMS Heater I built. This is based on the one by Sawdustguy. I did the electrical connection based on what I saw from Kal.

RIMS.jpg


RIMS-2.jpg


RIMS-3.jpg


There is a silicon o-ring and a SS washer between the box cover and the bushing on the heater. What I like about this is that the o-ring is thicker than the washer but fits inside the id of the washer. With the 2" bushing, there is enough flat area that I can tighten it down until the cover/washer/bushing make secure contact and the o-ring makes a nice seal. I'm thinking of drilling and tapping a couple small holes through the cover into the bushing to keep the box from twisting at all.

As for your questions;
Fuses will protect the wire from overheating, if you use 12awg throughout, that is not a problem. Fuses also protect your the devices, so 12awg and no fuses mean very little protection for your PID.

You definately want to use stranded wire, not romex.

The larger wire is gonna be much harder to work with as far as bending and routing and connections.

As for 10awg; voltage drops over long runs of wire. One way to combat this is to increase the size of the wire used. So a good, long, extension cord is often heaver gauge than the plug.

Good luck,
Ed
 
Yeah, it's 12g romex. Heavy stuff to work with.

So I should go 12g cord to element and ssr. From ssr to .25a fuse to 16g stranded to pid?

I would use a terminal block and run your power cord to there. Then from there you could use 16 gauge with a fuse for sure. The PID draws essentially no amps. My box is a little different, I have 12vdc power supply for the switches, lights, and pump relay input. I don't know if you can see it well enough, but here is a picture of the terminal blocks I was describing. I think Walker on here had a source for the blocks that was really cheap.


I do remember reading sawdust guy used liquid electrical tape. I'll try that on the end of the element.

Thanks for the help.

SANY0216.JPG
 
To protect the connection at the end of the element I went to home depot and purchased a PVC endcap and epoxied it to the end of the element. I had drilled a hole in the end for the wires and filled the cavity with silicone. My original thought was to use paint on electrical tape but I decided it was not stout enough.

For 20 amps 12 gauge is great. Use the 12 gauge for any wiring that will carry significant current. All other can be 18 or 20 gauge hookup wire. I doubt that the terminals on the PID will take 12 gauge wire.
 
Back
Top