Finishing hops

G'day. From what I've read about finishing hops is that you throw them in at the end of the boil, so they just give aroma to the beer. I also read that you strain them out when transferring from your brew pot to the fermenter, so only the hopped liquid gets through.

My LHBS sells small bags of finishing hops which are already in mesh bags, kind of like large tea bags. The instructions on the pack say to put it in a mug of boiled water for 10 minutes (I assume this has the same affect of throwing it in at the end of the boil), then pour the contents of the mug in to the fermenter, including the hop bag.

So this means the hop bag is in the fermenter for the primary fermentation stage, but when reading the All Grain brewing methods the finishing hops are strained out when transfering to the fermenter.

Which one do you suggest and what do you think the affects are of each way?

They are thrown in at the end and left to steep for a few minutes (up to 20).

When adding to the fermenter, you are employing a technique know as dry-hopping. (Search this site for more information).

The whole point of adding them to the cup of water is most likely to sanitize the bag prior to dumping it into the fermenter. Using a mesh bag is the way to go, I was in a rush on my most recent brew, just dumped the pellet hops in and then had to strain the hell out of my brew when I was bottling.

Thanks.

So does dry hopping give the same results as steeping the hops in at the end of the boil? Which is used for what reason?

Muss, great question because I am conditioning an IPA with 6 oz of hops that were steep during different times of the boil. If anyone could help us both out because I wonder if all the hops will cloud my beer? Any suggestions on dry hopping vs steeping?

Let me see if I can help. Aroma hops can be thrown in the boil for the last 10 minutes all the way to at flame out. This is a matter of taste and personal preference (like all beer making). If you use the bag--called a muslin bag--it is really easy tp pick out when you are ready to transfer to the primary fermenter. Some hops particles will seep through the bag...no big deal. Make a good whirlpool when you transfer to secondary and leave that junk behind with your yeast cake. I would throw them in the boil, not make a hop tea like your HBS guy said to do. Putting them in the boil will let the oils (good) get into the wort better. This makes a nice, round hop nose to the beer. Not too strong (obviously depending on amount and type)

Dry hopping--putting hops in the fermenter without ever boiling them. Put the hops in the fermenter along with your yeast. Again, using a muslin bag will help keep the nasties out of the beer (my opinion--some will disagree). If you use the bag, some people even put a sanitized marble or two in the bag with the hops to keep them sunk in the wort, but I never have. This is a great option for a pale ale or IPA because it gives really big hop nose to the beer, but does not contribut to the bitterness or flavor at all. It will seem like it does--because our nose tells us what stuff tastes like--but it actually does not. Again, a small amount of hop stuff will be in your fermenter, but whirlpool when you rack and it will easily be gone. Also, when you cold condition after priming, it will all settle with your sediment, too.

Basically, when all is said and done, you have to decide for yourself what you like the best in this art form. Clear as mud?

Oh, speaking of clear....hops won't cloud beer. If you are worried about how much hops is too much, guys around here use HUGE amounts and still get crystal clear beer. It is more of the carmelizing of the *ME that clouds. Cloudy beer? How does it taste? Good? Who cares then.

Kayos,
I know this is a whole new thread, but what can I then do to make my beers more clear. Of course, my brews taste great but I'm looking to make 'em look a little better. I know of using gelatin, but what is the best way to create clarity during the boil or transfer to primary? I've read John Palmer's site and read other things, but what is helps? Thanks and have a pint (or two) this weekend.

PS - Put your $$$$ on Hard Spun tomorrow

brewawan said:

PS - Put your $$$$ on Hard Spun tomorrow

Click to expand...

I have no idea what that means.

As far as clarity what kinds of beer are you making that you want clear and what kind of "unclear" do you mean? I do ALL my D/LME at about 5 mins or less to go in the boil. That helps A LOT. I also add a whirclock tab in the last 10 mins of the boil. If you want clear, use only DME, no LME because if carmelizes. Or even better...go AG, but then I can't talk, I haven't and don't plan on it with my kids running around keeping me from a true "brew day". More like a brew 2 hours max. Lemme know if that helps. K os

While at a not so local HBS, I overheard one of the owners tell a customer that he should always throw loose & pellet hops directly into the wort and strain when going to the fermenter, because using mesh bags would inhibit hop extraction.

I just assumed that if the hops were loose and not compacted within the muslin bag, that extraction would not be an issue. It seems like if enough hop surface area were exposed to the hot wort, it should work... bag or not. If I bag my hops, should I be adding more?

TIA

I have heard that, too. The ease of keeping the hops out makes it worth it to me to use the bags. After the hops are boiled, they are completely mush anyways, so the oils are definitely in the wort. It may effect the hop extraction, but tastes great to me. Try both ways, see what you like.