eBay Heatstick Score

Saw this on eBay last night, bid before I went to bed and woke up the proud owner. Looked like it might be good for temperature corrections in the mash or even step mashing. Adjustable temperature control from 75 degrees to boiling, but at 1000W boiling is out. Scorching is my only worry, but for $30 shipped, it's worth playing with. Anyone ever seen/used one of these before?

looks like a bucket heater. I think someone tried one very much like it from tractor supply guess it would be ok to pre heat sparge water

With mashing you would want a ultra low density element to not scorch the wort

springer said:

With mashing you would want a ultra low density element to not scorch the wort

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Yeah, I'm wondering if the temperature control changes the heat intensity or is just an on/off thing. One of the labels says 750-1000W, so the heat may be variable. Still, I don't know if 750W is low enough to not scorch?

No luck with google searching the company or model. Might end up being trial and error when it gets here, but it would be good to hear someone elses experience before taking a chance of messing up a batch.

My 2000w heatstick will hold a boil, but won't get the boil going alone. I use the banjo burner along with the heatstick to establish the boil.

1000w is a little small.

Cpt_Kirks said:

. . . 1000w is a little small.

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Not looking to boil, just step mash from say 130 to 150 degrees without scorching grain by stirring with this thing?

Could you use it in your lauter tun?

That stick would work great in an HLT, slow of course, but on a timer would be perfect. It will also heat the mash, i doubt any scorching will occur as long as you are stirring.

wilserbrewer said:

That stick would work great in an HLT, slow of course, but on a timer would be perfect. It will also heat the mash, i doubt any scorching will occur as long as you are stirring.

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I picked up a 3000W immersion heater a while ago (eBay again) that will end up on my HLT when I find time to wire a 220V outlet. Springer mentioned needing an "ultra low density element" for use in the mash, but I'd like to know what the spec for that is? Or if the scorching he mentions would only be a problem if you don't stir?

I use my heatstick in the boil.

Tried it in the mash once. Once.

I managed to get some grain stuck to the heating element and melt some dimples in the bottom of my cooler MLT. I just stuck it in there. If you are going to use a heatstick in a MLT, you HAVE to keep it moving.

That Amber Ale had a funny, slightly scorched taste, but with a drop or two of lime juice was pretty good.

I have used my heatstick in the boil of very light colored Pilsner's without any carmelization.

AnOldUR said:

I picked up a 3000W immersion heater a while ago (eBay again) that will end up on my HLT when I find time to wire a 220V outlet. Springer mentioned needing an "ultra low density element" for use in the mash, but I'd like to know what the spec for that is? Or if the scorching he mentions would only be a problem if you don't stir?

Click to expand...

As for 240v elements, regular water heater elements are good. I'm going to probably use 5500w elements in my system. One in the HLT, and one in the keggle. Using solid state relays enable you to "throttle down" the heat as needed.

Cpt_Kirks said:

As for 240v elements, regular water heater elements are good. I'm going to probably use 5500w elements in my system. One in the HLT, and one in the keggle. Using solid state relays enable you to "throttle down" the heat as needed.

Click to expand...

This is the 3000W heater that I picked up. It's got a temperature control built in so all the hard work is done. Just have to find the time to mount it in the pot and wire the outlet.

AnOldUR said:

I picked up a 3000W immersion heater a while ago (eBay again) that will end up on my HLT when I find time to wire a 220V outlet. Springer mentioned needing an "ultra low density element" for use in the mash, but I'd like to know what the spec for that is? Or if the scorching he mentions would only be a problem if you don't stir?

Click to expand...

for mash you want an element like this .low density

#02853

springer said:

for mash you want an element like this .low density

#02853

Click to expand...

Something I have been wondering: What makes a low density element, low density? Is it the fact that the element is longer, so it spreads the hot part out more?

Cpt_Kirks said:

Something I have been wondering: What makes a low density element, low density? Is it the fact that the element is longer, so it spreads the hot part out more?

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Interesting. This is what I found looking at the pictures of high and low for any given wattage at springer's link.

Edit:
Is there a watts per inch rating that defines the density?

Cpt_Kirks said:

Something I have been wondering: What makes a low density element, low density? Is it the fact that the element is longer, so it spreads the hot part out more?

Click to expand...

from what I have been told the element doesn't get as hot therefore it wont scorch the wort. It has to be longer to add surface area so it can heat the water/wort

Cpt_Kirks said:

Something I have been wondering: What makes a low density element, low density?

Click to expand...

Found this:

"What does high, low, and extra low density refer to?"

The density refers to the amount of watts per square inch. For example, high density is rated at 150+ watts per square inch, low density is rated at 75+ watts per square inch, and extra low density is rated at 50+ watts per square inch.

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The eBay listing says that my heater has an 8 inch immersion length. It loops back, so that makes the total surface length about 16". The element looks to be 3/8" diameter.

1000W / 16" X 3/8" X 3.14 = 53 watts/sq in

So, if all these estimates and assumptions are correct I have a low density element that should be ok in the mash. Still, keeping it moving is probably a good idea.

springer, your link led me to the answer. Thanks!