A little help from one beginner to another

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Tuggy

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Ok so I have just got into the process of beer brewing. I'm currently on my second batch. I am in no means in the position to offer advise or even my opinion on one method compared to another. But, what I can do is say that I have spent a MASSIVE amount of time in the forums reading on topics from A-Z. I'm trying to learn as much as I can as fast as I can.

One thing that made it difficult was while reading these forums I would come across certain words or phrases that involved certain procedures that I didn't know what they meant. So I just made a list of things that I didn't know and then defined for myself. It is very possible that I have some of these incorrect, so feel free to comment below with any other corrections or additions.



Top Fermenting Yeast - One of the two types of yeast used in brewing. Top-fermenting yeast works better at warmer temperatures and are able to tolerate higher alcohol concentrations than bottom-fermenting yeast. It is unable to ferment some sugars, and results in a fruitier, sweeter beer. Also known as "ale yeast".

Bottom Fermenting Yeast - One of the two types of yeast used in brewing. Bottom-fermenting yeast works well at low temperatures and ferments more sugars leaving a crisp, clean taste and then settles to the bottom of the tank. Also referred to as "lager yeast".

Krausen – This is the foamy substance that forms at the beginning stages of fermentation. It usually raises and then will recess back into the wort after 5 days or so (it all depends on the amount of sugars to consume, temperate of wort, and type of yeast). Another definition to this word, but not as commonly used is the addition of a wort to a fully fermented beer for carbonation purposes.

Attenuation – This is the extent to which yeast consumes sugars and processes them into alcohol and Co2. Some yeasts will consume more and some less. Something to look at when purchasing yeasts.

Dry Hopping – This is when you add dry hops to fermenting or aging beer to increase bitterness or aroma. Much like adding fruit, but with hops.

ESB – Extra Special Bitter. I style of beer you can brew.

Oxidation – Basically refers to the taste of the beer due to exposure to oxygen or high temperatures. The beer will have a cardboard / stale taste. From what I gather you can accomplish this brewing failure by splashing your wort or shaking your wort vigorously like a bottle of champagne after winning the Stanley cup. People say that it increases the chances of oxidation if moving to a secondary. Others say that it very difficult to oxidize your beer from transfers.

Mashing – This is the process of taking grains and heating them to release their malt sugars. Most people heat the grains at a specific temperature based on the type of grain they are trying to extract malts from. This technique is used for all grain brews.

Ester - Volatile flavor compound naturally created in fermentation. Often fruity, flowery or spicy. Basically the flavors derived from the reaction between the yeast and the different types of sugars in your wort.

Trub – This refers to the layer of sediment that appears at the bottom of the fermenter after yeast has completed the bulk of the fermentation, it is composed mainly of heavy fats, proteins and inactive yeast. People also sometimes use this term to describe the sediment left behind after the boiling process or after the first transfer.

Yeast Cake – This is the sediment at the bottom of the fermenter. Also known as the trub. Practically there really is no difference between the two. People use “yeast cake” when referring to reusing the yeast in another batch. Technically the yeast cake is all yeast, whereas the turb is the combination of proteins, fats, etc.

Yeast Washing – The process of taking your yeast cake or turb and preparing it so you can reuse the yeast in another batch. See an illustration below.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-washing-illustrated-41768/

Force Carb – This process is when you use Co2 to carbonate your beer instead of using priming sugars that will reactivate the yeast. Forced Carb is usually done with kegged beer. Some people prefer this method because they believe adding priming sugars ruins the integrity of the esters in their brew.

Crash Cooling – I’ve heard this term used in two different references. One is to take your boiled wort and cool it to pinching temperatures as quickly as possible. The other time I’ve heard this used is when people are lagering their brews. You can either slowly lower the temperatures by a few degrees a day or you can take it from 65 to 35 immediately. A typical lager it seems you would like to slowly cool while the yeast is still working hard. A crash cool would be more for a hybrid (Kolsch) which is primarily done fermenting like an ale, but introducing the lagering process quickly.

Yeast Rousing (Swirling) – This is the process of putting your yeast back into suspension. During the fermenting process, nearing the end, the yeast will settle at the bottom; Sometimes leaving sugars uneaten. You can either rock the wort or swirl the wort to get the yeast to dissipate. It is recommended not to shake. This will give your yeast another chance to clean things up.

Top Cropping – I’ve seen people talking about this a lot. Everyone talks about top cropping but nobody has explained its purpose. From what I can gather from reading tons of forums and goggling the subject on top cropping, it is basically taking layers off the top of your (over 50%) fermented krausen so you can reuse the yeast in other batches. If you’re anything like me you’re a beginner so I’m not really ready to be doing these advanced skills. I’m simple, I’ll just run to my home brew and buy a new packet of yeast. If anyone would like to comment below and explain the benefits of harvesting and reusing yeast as opposed to buying new yeast I’m trying to learn as much as I can. Listed below is a link I came across on another thread, it shows an experienced brewer top cropping from a glass carboy something that may interest beginners and advanced brewers alike.
http://www.aleiens.com/video/top-cropping-yeast-from-a


Another good site for beer terms 101 is:
http://beeradvocate.com/beer/101/terms.php


Thanks everyone and happy brewing. :rockin:
 
The only real benefit to harvesting yeast for most of us is just a matter of cost savings. For a $4 packet of dry yeast, it's not a huge deal, but some of the more exotic liquid yeasts start costing upwards of $10, and if you can reuse it a few times, it brings the cost down.
 
The only real benefit to harvesting yeast for most of us is just a matter of cost savings. For a $4 packet of dry yeast, it's not a huge deal, but some of the more exotic liquid yeasts start costing upwards of $10, and if you can reuse it a few times, it brings the cost down.

Especially when your pitching more than one pack of yeast on bigger batches or bigger beers.
 
That makes perfect sense. People talk about the integrity of the beer being compromised by using plastic buckets, because plastic can carry over one brew to the next. Wouldn't using yeast cakes or top cropping do the same?

Also, I'm trying a English Brown Ale tomorrow. The kit came with a notty yeast (seems to be brewers best "go-to" yeast), which did fine on my last brew.. But is there something more suitable that I can try?
 
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