Help! Question about Extract

unionrdr said:

All Cooper's OS cans have a little bit of bittering only with Pride of Ringwood hops. So adding 3lbs of plain dme will reduce the bittering quality a bit. & since it has NO flavor/aroma hop additions,you're doing such additions re-balances the brew. They're made that way on purpose so you can experiment with what you like. I wish they'd actually come out & say that. And light DME is ok,but will lighten the color a bit,not to mention,water down the flavor,ime. That's why I used 3lbs of plain amber DME in my dark ale recipe. It preserves some of that wee bit of toastiness it should have. And gives it a nice ruby glint.

Click to expand...

Well as of last Thursday, my first batch has been in the primary fermenter. A few hiccups during the process, but I suppose it's a learning process as it's my first batch. I didnt realize how long it takes to cool the wort w/o a chiller, and I had to boil my additional water which took forever to cool (even though I'm in Minnesota!)

Hopefully my stuff didn't get contaminated. I went to Wisconsin over the weekend and checked it on Monday and it fermented so much there was wort in the airlock and bubbling over, so I quickly cleaned it and put it back, another mistake?

She's still bubbling away. Figure I will ferment for 2 weeks and then bottle and let sit another 2.

unionrdr said:

It'll likely take more than 2 weeks to get down to a stable FG. then 3-5 days more to clean up & settle out more. And 2 weeks in the bottle isn't usually enough. 3 weeks is minimum average for it to carbonate. But 4 or 5 weeks to condition to where it tastes really good. Trust me.

Click to expand...

So I just finished bottling my first batch. The hydrometer reading was in the right "green zone" on the reader, but how do I know what the APV is? The reading was like 1.8?

(sg - fg) * 131