Transitioning to kegging

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bosster01

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Hey everyone,

I would like to start kegging and then utilizing a beer gun for when I would like to bring some bottles over to friends etc.

I was wondering if anyone had any tips about the transition into kegging in terms of the most cost effective way to transition?

I've considered looking into building a keezer - if I did I would only want a 5 CU foot one and 2 taps. I've also considered buying a kegerator (I think that would suffice for my needs). Unsure which avenue would be best in the long run and hoping for advice.

I've also considered just buying a minifridge, and opening up the door to pour my beer. I don't see that as being too much of a hassle, but I wonder if in the long run I would regret it.

Also curious on the best place to get kegs and what type of kegs should I get? I don't fully understand the benefits of ball vs pin lock etc.

Anyways anyone with any tips for a new homebrewer looking to save time bottling, please let me know.
 
I always just purchased the cheapest used fridge I could find for my last two kegerators and accessed the beer by opening the door. That said, I'm in the gradual process of building it out since hardware is so expensive and will eventually have taps on the front. The biggest joy so far is when I installed a manifold and quit nursing the kegs with gas individually. so much more convenient.

There's no functional difference between ball vs pin except they are slightly different sizes. Pins are cheaper because most people choose ball for some reason, and I did too. What's more important is that you choose one and stick with it because swapping out connectors can become a PITA eventually if you have a bunch of both types. I've had both however and it's not such a big thing.

For gas, head on down to the local industrial gas store and lease no smaller than a 20lb tank of food grade co2. I keep a 5lb on hand too for smaller tasks and portability.

Oh, and KEG LUBE. It was 16 years before I tried it because I just thought it was superfluous. Then I tried it and it was like an epiphany. Makes things so much smoother and more pleasurable, kind of like KY jelly for kegs.

Here's my kegerator. Other people on here have some much nicer ones, but mine works and is a work in progress.

View attachment 1454855691189.jpg

View attachment 1454855711707.jpg
 
Thanks for the advice!

I had heard that if I buy a crappy looking CO2 tank off CL I can go to the homebrew store to get it filled and they just swap it out for a full one. Is that true based on your experience? Because then I can just buy the cheapest tank on CL and not worry about it.

Can you explain more what you mean by the manifold? Is that the gas distributor thing in the back of the photo?

Do you think I should go with an old upright fridge as opposed to getting a keezer?

ALSO I'm jelly of your grainfather.
 
Thanks for the advice!

I had heard that if I buy a crappy looking CO2 tank off CL I can go to the homebrew store to get it filled and they just swap it out for a full one. Is that true based on your experience? Because then I can just buy the cheapest tank on CL and not worry about it.

Can you explain more what you mean by the manifold? Is that the gas distributor thing in the back of the photo?

Do you think I should go with an old upright fridge as opposed to getting a keezer?

ALSO I'm jelly of your grainfather.

It was either that or quit brewing in the winter. I'm getting old, fat, and lazy, and no longer willing to suffer for my beer. The GF has been so enjoyable to use, however, I don't think I'm going back to my propane, pumps, and pots.

That's what I did re: the co2 tank too , but since I don't have a lhbs, I exchange them for full ones at the gas supply store. Yes, the manifold is the brass four-way splitter attached to the back wall of the fridge. Before I had this, I was force carbing each keg individually and adding co2 after every couple of pours to each keg to keep the pressure at around 12 psi. I did it this way for 16 years, but truth be told, it became a PITA too. With the manifold, you just hook each keg up to it, and never have to touch it again. The gas stays on all the time and keeps the kegs perfectly carbed and at perfect serving pressure. Just have to make sure you have everything tightened up real good so you don't leak Co2. I'm all about making things easier now as I said, and the manifold really helped in that regard. Now if I could just save up $200 for four Perlick faucets, I'd be finished with it.

Keezer vs kegerator is personal preference. I've always used fridges just because. You'll need a temp controller with a freezer to keep your beer from freezing. My fridge stays at 38-40 degrees and I'm happy with that. I enjoy nursing my beer as it warms up slightly in the glass and noticing the different flavors gradually come to the forefront.
 
Buy the cheaper used tank from cl. Most shops just swap them out anyways. Find a local welding or gas shop. They're cheaper than you lhbs and most of the time don't care about tank dates.

Food grade co2 is a scam. Don't get caught up in it. It's bureaucratic nonsense...


Check the For Sale section here regularly for great deals on kegging equipment. www.ritebrew.com for cheap faucets and such. www.homebrewing.org for used kegs, especially look at their "loose handle" kegs. Great deal, cheap shipping, and a drop of Gorilla Glue makes them perfect!

Always check www.bargainfittings.com for everything else!



For new people, I always recommend a kegerator over a keezer. Just replace the beer lines with 3/16" lines so there's no foaming issues. 1 foot for every pound of co2, that you carbonate your beer with, is a good start. Trim away line until you get your desired pour. Put a small computer fan inside the kegerator if it doesn't have one built in.

:mug:
 
Buy the cheaper used tank from cl. Most shops just swap them out anyways. Find a local welding or gas shop. They're cheaper than you lhbs and most of the time don't care about tank dates.

Food grade co2 is a scam. Don't get caught up in it. It's bureaucratic nonsense...


Check the For Sale section here regularly for great deals on kegging equipment. www.ritebrew.com for cheap faucets and such. www.homebrewing.org for used kegs, especially look at their "loose handle" kegs. Great deal, cheap shipping, and a drop of Gorilla Glue makes them perfect!

Always check www.bargainfittings.com for everything else!



For new people, I always recommend a kegerator over a keezer. Just replace the beer lines with 3/16" lines so there's no foaming issues. 1 foot for every pound of co2, that you carbonate your beer with, is a good start. Trim away line until you get your desired pour. Put a small computer fan inside the kegerator if it doesn't have one built in.

:mug:

thanks for the tips! I could look this up, but what is the optimal length (pound of CO2) for the best pour?

With the computer fan do you power it with a cell phone charger that is spliced? Or do you hook it up somehow to the kegerator?
 
Depends on the pressure and line resistance. Google balancing keg system. But to give you the short of it, you need enough resistance to reduce the pressure at the faucet to 0-1 psi to keep from getting foamy pours. In the various online calculators this works out to about 10 feet of line. Like everything, though, there's some leeway, and I only use 5 ft of 3/16" line and am very happy with my pours. My pressure is on 10 psi, and I'm happy with the carb level. If I wanted it a little more carbonated, I could increase the pressure to 12psi, but I'd have to have slightly longer lines to compensate.
 
thanks for the tips! I could look this up, but what is the optimal length (pound of CO2) for the best pour?

With the computer fan do you power it with a cell phone charger that is spliced? Or do you hook it up somehow to the kegerator?


Optimal pour will depend on lenght of line, pressure, and temp. Most of my kegs are carbed at about 12#'s at 38°-40°. Those lines are about 10.5 ft. They're zip tied into nice coils and sit on top of the kegs.


Some people use 5ft lines and have no issue. I don't know how. Magic I guess. Lol!


And these examples are just with the standard 3/16" bevflex lines. There's other types, and the lenght keeps getting longer with those.


You could also avoid all this nonsense and just buy flow control faucets, but they're more expensive...




For the fan, I'd find a good spot to either drill or use an existing hole to push the cord through. Then use an old cell charger to run it. You want the fan to run all the time, preferrably positioned to blow up the tower.

There's a million threads on this site to help. :mug:
 
It would be best for you to give us an idea of your budget first, that way we can give you the best advice possible. Also, remember that we all have different priorities, so what I consider 'best', could be a very low priority for someone else, etc.

With that said, I am not a fan of half measures if you have the money. I started brewing in college, and had very little money, so I waited and found good deals before I started kegging. I quickly went from a chest freezer (not even a real keezer, just temp controlled, still had to open the lid) to an upright fridge that I bought off craigslist.

Again, it all depends on your budget and what you are willing to spend.

I have used chest freezers and upright freezers, they both have their advantages and limitations. For your back, an upright fridge is best, but for potential capacity, a large chest freezer can't be beat at the starter level.

I started with chrome plated brass hardware, but once I had the money, I upgraded to all stainless and forward sealing faucets. If you have the cash, start with stainless.

I also wouldn't worry about the beergun. I have one, and I rarely use it. For bringing bottles around, I would actually recommend getting a growler filler fit for the forward sealing faucet (if you get forward sealing faucets), and fill growlers. This is a much easier method than trying to use the beergun and bottles.

Also, what are your space constraints? How often do you brew? How much do you drink? How many kegs are you going to start with, and how many do you see yourself getting in the next 5 years or so?

I personally bought the cheapest kegs I could whenever I needed them. I now have about 90 total kegs, and over 70 filled in the walk-in. Because I bought the cheapest kegs available, I have a mix of ball lock and pin lock, though mostly pin lock at this point since they are typically cheaper. This has taken me years to get to this point, and a good amount of money over that time. I also have a very different philosophy on kegging equipment than most here, but it doesn't really apply to most others.

If you don't expect to have that many kegs, getting all the same style of keg is the easiest route, and simplifies your equipment.

Once you answer some questions, we can all give you a better idea of what could potentially be good options for you!
 
It would be best for you to give us an idea of your budget first, that way we can give you the best advice possible. Also, remember that we all have different priorities, so what I consider 'best', could be a very low priority for someone else, etc.

With that said, I am not a fan of half measures if you have the money. I started brewing in college, and had very little money, so I waited and found good deals before I started kegging. I quickly went from a chest freezer (not even a real keezer, just temp controlled, still had to open the lid) to an upright fridge that I bought off craigslist.

Again, it all depends on your budget and what you are willing to spend.

I have used chest freezers and upright freezers, they both have their advantages and limitations. For your back, an upright fridge is best, but for potential capacity, a large chest freezer can't be beat at the starter level.

I started with chrome plated brass hardware, but once I had the money, I upgraded to all stainless and forward sealing faucets. If you have the cash, start with stainless.

I also wouldn't worry about the beergun. I have one, and I rarely use it. For bringing bottles around, I would actually recommend getting a growler filler fit for the forward sealing faucet (if you get forward sealing faucets), and fill growlers. This is a much easier method than trying to use the beergun and bottles.

Also, what are your space constraints? How often do you brew? How much do you drink? How many kegs are you going to start with, and how many do you see yourself getting in the next 5 years or so?

I personally bought the cheapest kegs I could whenever I needed them. I now have about 90 total kegs, and over 70 filled in the walk-in. Because I bought the cheapest kegs available, I have a mix of ball lock and pin lock, though mostly pin lock at this point since they are typically cheaper. This has taken me years to get to this point, and a good amount of money over that time. I also have a very different philosophy on kegging equipment than most here, but it doesn't really apply to most others.

If you don't expect to have that many kegs, getting all the same style of keg is the easiest route, and simplifies your equipment.

Once you answer some questions, we can all give you a better idea of what could potentially be good options for you!

Thank you for all the tips, especially about the stainless steel & beer gun.

What I would ideally like is to have a 2 tap system with 2 corny kegs. I would ideally like to get my 2 keg system with all the equipment including the kegs for ~600$ if at all possible. I've been looking into chest freezers and been trying to decide whether or not I could get one off CL or should buy new. I've heard the new chest freezers go bad in ~ 10 years... so I'm hesitant to buy used.

I would like to put this in my basement and my doors are narrow so I think the biggest chest freezer I can get in is 5-6 cu. ft. ALSO I'm in the military and will have frequent moves... so I think a chest freezer/kegerator would be more readily able to be moved. From what I've read most chest freezers that are 5 CU ft can fit 2 kegs with a collar - do you agree?

Problem is I'm not the most handy guy, but from what I've read keezers are pretty easy to build in terms of the collar etc.

I would rather spend more money and have something that would last then spend less and have to buy new stuff in 2 years. I have been bottling my beer so far and with kegging I would probably brew even more since I would save time from bottling. I would anticipate brewing 2x per month 5-6.5 gallon batches for my use.
 
My first keezer was a 5 cu ft. With a 10" collar, I could put 3 ball locks in it.

I recommend you buy a used freezer for your first keezer. You learn a ton about keezers, and what youd do differently next time, in the first few months. Plus, all your hardware can be reused in the next keezer! So buy the cheap ass one for your guinea pig.

Go stainless now. You'll never be happier. Forward sealing faucets too.

I use my beer gun all the time. It's one of the best things I've bought. I fill growlers more though with a growler filler, so I guess the choice is yours. Why not both? Lol!


To be quite honest, I love keezers... but bottom freezer refrigerators are possibly the best setup for MacGyver brewers. The ease of use is second to none, and so much less stress on the back. Plus, you can pack away your hops in the bottom freezer!
 
It doesn't get much cheaper than just putting a couple cornys, co2, and picnic taps in an unused fridge.

Craigslist is your friend for co2 tanks, regulators, corny kegs, etc.

In one deal I got 4 decent ball lock cornys for $150. Not exceptional, but not bad.

Another was a 5lb co2 bottle, single regulator, Sanke keg tap, and tap faucet for $50.

Last was a 20lb co2 cylinder for $20.

I usually have just two kegs going. But I have a few different line sets to use depending on the carb level of the beer. The same general rule of thumb other people mentioned works for me, ~1 ft of 3/16 per PSI of keg pressure.

When I first started I just had a 6ft (?) line and had to turn down the pressure for serving, then turn it back up for maintaining carb level - PITA.

20151014_075819.jpg
 
Thank you for all the tips, especially about the stainless steel & beer gun.

What I would ideally like is to have a 2 tap system with 2 corny kegs. I would ideally like to get my 2 keg system with all the equipment including the kegs for ~600$ if at all possible. I've been looking into chest freezers and been trying to decide whether or not I could get one off CL or should buy new. I've heard the new chest freezers go bad in ~ 10 years... so I'm hesitant to buy used.

I would like to put this in my basement and my doors are narrow so I think the biggest chest freezer I can get in is 5-6 cu. ft. ALSO I'm in the military and will have frequent moves... so I think a chest freezer/kegerator would be more readily able to be moved. From what I've read most chest freezers that are 5 CU ft can fit 2 kegs with a collar - do you agree?

Problem is I'm not the most handy guy, but from what I've read keezers are pretty easy to build in terms of the collar etc.

I would rather spend more money and have something that would last then spend less and have to buy new stuff in 2 years. I have been bottling my beer so far and with kegging I would probably brew even more since I would save time from bottling. I would anticipate brewing 2x per month 5-6.5 gallon batches for my use.

With that budget, I would say to get a used chest freezer. I am trying to work out some numbers, and with the new chest freezer being around $200, that limits the other areas.

Depending on how quickly you drink, you may need more than just two kegs. The general recommendation is to have twice as many kegs as you have faucets. This typically allows you to keep your faucets flowing, have kegs on deck aging and ready to be tapped, and possibly an available keg, or keg to clean (depends on total number of kegs).

So for your setup, I would typically recommend getting 4 kegs, and trying to find a chest freezer that can hold 4 kegs, this way, when one keg goes empty, you have another immediately available that is chilled and carbed and you can just swap the disconnect over to it and be good to go without interruptions. The only thing is, kegs are an expensive part of kegging now, and for four kegs, you are looking at around $200 typically. Though there have been some good sales that happened recently, so you may try to see if you can find good deals on kegs.

If you can gradually acquire some parts used, you can save a good amount of money, and put it towards the items that will be best to buy new.

Here would be my personal list of things to buy new:
stainless faucets
stainless shanks
tubing and other disposables (clamps, barbed fittings, etc.)
keg lube

my list of things to buy used:
chest freezer
regulator
co2 tank
kegs

Now, you also have some other options with things that you may want to consider. If you are sensitive to plastic taint, you may want to consider going with bev seal ultra 235 tubing and John Guest fittings, at least for the liquid side (this will add some to your costs, as well as increase the complexity a bit, but if you have questions, I can help, or others who have made the switch). If you want to keep things simple, regular PVC line will do just fine, and I used it for many years before switching to the bev seal ultra.

With a chest freezer, if you don't want to build a collar, you can just use a tower mounted on top of the chest freezer, but you may put a hole through your wall if you have the chest freezer mounted too close to a wall, and open the lid a bit too forcefully. Also, it may not be possible to use the bev seal ultra tubing with the short shanks and 90 degree fitting, and most towers don't come with stainless short shanks. A collar is fairly simple to build and use, the only thing to be careful of is your back, as you have to be able to lift full kegs over the height of the collar regularly (I built a winch system on casters to save my back when I was using chest freezers). Chest freezers will also be easier to find used compared to workable freezer options, though a regular upright fridge may be even easier and cheaper to source, if it can fit through your narrow doors, plus you won't need a temperature controller then.

For CO2, I would recommend getting a decent branded regulator, used or new, I've seen too many problems with cheap regulators (I bought all my regulators used, and have a mix of tapright, norgren, and perlick, which are all decent, though I am now thinking of replacing the gauges with new ones that will have higher accuracy and can be rezeroed). Try to get a large used CO2 tank off craigslist, if it will fit with your space. 20# tanks should be pretty easy to come by if you are patient, or you can go to your local airgas or CO2 distributor to see what they can offer you (it will definitely be more expensive going this route).

If you balance your lines properly (this means to get the correct amount of tubing to reduce the flow to reasonable speeds at the faucets), Perlick 630SS faucets are good, vent-matics would be great if they are in stock; if you don't balance your lines, look in to perlick 650ss faucets, as they will allow you to restrict the flow at the faucet. If you decide to balance your lines, add a foot or two of line to whatever the calculators tell you, and then cut back if the flow is too slow (I started with lines that were too short when I first started kegging...). Any of these forward sealing faucets have growler filling adapters - get one.

When you get your shanks, check the bore through the center and make sure it is smooth. I have received shanks that were bored from each end at different angles, and there was a ledge in the center, and had I used them, it would've caused a lot of foaming issues.

Please use check valves and check your gas system for leaks when you get things set up. You can search for options with this, there are a lot of threads, we can also help you here in this thread when you get to that point.

Keg lube is great for o-rings.

If you ever need to replace post poppets, look into universal poppets, they are a great recent invention (I used to keep dozens of brand specific poppets on hand).

That is about all I can think of right now, I hope it helps!

It sounds like a lot, and there is a good amount to consider up front, but like another response said, you will learn as you go what fits with your preferences, budget, space limitations, etc. As you become more familiar with your own setup, things will seem much more natural, and the things that are foreign to you now, will make a lot more sense.

Best of luck!
 
With that budget, I would say to get a used chest freezer. I am trying to work out some numbers, and with the new chest freezer being around $200, that limits the other areas.

Depending on how quickly you drink, you may need more than just two kegs. The general recommendation is to have twice as many kegs as you have faucets. This typically allows you to keep your faucets flowing, have kegs on deck aging and ready to be tapped, and possibly an available keg, or keg to clean (depends on total number of kegs).

So for your setup, I would typically recommend getting 4 kegs, and trying to find a chest freezer that can hold 4 kegs, this way, when one keg goes empty, you have another immediately available that is chilled and carbed and you can just swap the disconnect over to it and be good to go without interruptions. The only thing is, kegs are an expensive part of kegging now, and for four kegs, you are looking at around $200 typically. Though there have been some good sales that happened recently, so you may try to see if you can find good deals on kegs.

If you can gradually acquire some parts used, you can save a good amount of money, and put it towards the items that will be best to buy new.

Here would be my personal list of things to buy new:
stainless faucets
stainless shanks
tubing and other disposables (clamps, barbed fittings, etc.)
keg lube

my list of things to buy used:
chest freezer
regulator
co2 tank
kegs

Now, you also have some other options with things that you may want to consider. If you are sensitive to plastic taint, you may want to consider going with bev seal ultra 235 tubing and John Guest fittings, at least for the liquid side (this will add some to your costs, as well as increase the complexity a bit, but if you have questions, I can help, or others who have made the switch). If you want to keep things simple, regular PVC line will do just fine, and I used it for many years before switching to the bev seal ultra.

With a chest freezer, if you don't want to build a collar, you can just use a tower mounted on top of the chest freezer, but you may put a hole through your wall if you have the chest freezer mounted too close to a wall, and open the lid a bit too forcefully. Also, it may not be possible to use the bev seal ultra tubing with the short shanks and 90 degree fitting, and most towers don't come with stainless short shanks. A collar is fairly simple to build and use, the only thing to be careful of is your back, as you have to be able to lift full kegs over the height of the collar regularly (I built a winch system on casters to save my back when I was using chest freezers). Chest freezers will also be easier to find used compared to workable freezer options, though a regular upright fridge may be even easier and cheaper to source, if it can fit through your narrow doors, plus you won't need a temperature controller then.

For CO2, I would recommend getting a decent branded regulator, used or new, I've seen too many problems with cheap regulators (I bought all my regulators used, and have a mix of tapright, norgren, and perlick, which are all decent, though I am now thinking of replacing the gauges with new ones that will have higher accuracy and can be rezeroed). Try to get a large used CO2 tank off craigslist, if it will fit with your space. 20# tanks should be pretty easy to come by if you are patient, or you can go to your local airgas or CO2 distributor to see what they can offer you (it will definitely be more expensive going this route).

If you balance your lines properly (this means to get the correct amount of tubing to reduce the flow to reasonable speeds at the faucets), Perlick 630SS faucets are good, vent-matics would be great if they are in stock; if you don't balance your lines, look in to perlick 650ss faucets, as they will allow you to restrict the flow at the faucet. If you decide to balance your lines, add a foot or two of line to whatever the calculators tell you, and then cut back if the flow is too slow (I started with lines that were too short when I first started kegging...). Any of these forward sealing faucets have growler filling adapters - get one.

When you get your shanks, check the bore through the center and make sure it is smooth. I have received shanks that were bored from each end at different angles, and there was a ledge in the center, and had I used them, it would've caused a lot of foaming issues.

Please use check valves and check your gas system for leaks when you get things set up. You can search for options with this, there are a lot of threads, we can also help you here in this thread when you get to that point.

Keg lube is great for o-rings.

If you ever need to replace post poppets, look into universal poppets, they are a great recent invention (I used to keep dozens of brand specific poppets on hand).

That is about all I can think of right now, I hope it helps!

It sounds like a lot, and there is a good amount to consider up front, but like another response said, you will learn as you go what fits with your preferences, budget, space limitations, etc. As you become more familiar with your own setup, things will seem much more natural, and the things that are foreign to you now, will make a lot more sense.

Best of luck!

Wow I really appreciate you taking the time for all of this great advice! I had never considered how easy it would be to just put a tower on top of a chest freezer. The simplicity involved with that really appeals to me. I also like the idea of not having to balance the lines by using the perlick 650ss faucets. I quickly googled it and it seems I can get a beer tower with 2 perlick 650ss faucets for about 200. So does having the 650ss mean I don't need to worry about line length at all?

Based on your advice I'm going to start acquiring the chest freezer off of CL right now, in addition to the gas tank. I'll buy a new quality regulator, is there a specific one you think is best? After I get the freezer, beer tower, tank, regulator' and lines I will buy kegs and shoot for 4 pin locks. As I acquire my stuff I'll update this thread. Thanks again everyone.

Looks like at Home Depot I can get the igloo frf452 5 cu ft chest freezer for 200$ brand new. This will fit in my basement. Only downside is based on the homebrew chest freezer spec link it will only fit 2 corny kegs. I get 10 percent off at Home Depot. And I'm comfortable with the 2 keg capacity. Would be nice it have a brand new freezer.... Thinking about going after this.
 
Buy a Taprite regulator with the large red knob. They're great, and easy to use.


Seriously, buy a used freezer to start. I'm sure if you check cl frequently, you'll find them for $50- $75. Just buy one that's in great shape. Upgrade later after you've figured out all the kinks. You won't regret it.
 
Buy a Taprite regulator with the large red knob. They're great, and easy to use.


Seriously, buy a used freezer to start. I'm sure if you check cl frequently, you'll find them for $50- $75. Just buy one that's in great shape. Upgrade later after you've figured out all the kinks. You won't regret it.

Thanks for the tip. Do you have strong opinions about building a collar vs just installing a tap tower to the lid?

I figure if I can fit my two kegs.... I don't see a reason to build a collar. Would you consider that a mistake?
 
Thanks for the tip. Do you have strong opinions about building a collar vs just installing a tap tower to the lid?

I figure if I can fit my two kegs.... I don't see a reason to build a collar. Would you consider that a mistake?


It's all preference. If you are going the tower route, put the keezer on casters. You'll need to be able to roll it away from the wall to open it.

Unscrew one of the feet, and bring it to a hardware store to find a caster that that will screw right in to where you removed the foot. I know Harbor Freight has them cheap, and different weight categories. Way easier than building a base.

A tower takes less effort to perfect than building and insulating the proper collar. Minimal tool use too. Plus, besides the hole and the temp controller added, everything stays original on the freezer... which is good in regards to moisture and insulation. Just remember to mount a fan blowing up the tower, and maybe do the copper pipe trick.

:mug:
 
It's all preference. If you are going the tower route, put the keezer on casters. You'll need to be able to roll it away from the wall to open it.

Unscrew one of the feet, and bring it to a hardware store to find a caster that that will screw right in to where you removed the foot. I know Harbor Freight has them cheap, and different weight categories. Way easier than building a base.

A tower takes less effort to perfect than building and insulating the proper collar. Minimal tool use too. Plus, besides the hole and the temp controller added, everything stays original on the freezer... which is good in regards to moisture and insulation. Just remember to mount a fan blowing up the tower, and maybe do the copper pipe trick.

:mug:

Great idea with the casters. I wouldn't have thought of that, also thanks for the idea of removing one of the feet. I'll look up the copper pipe trick!
 
The other advantage to just a tower is that it makes it much easier to swap to a new freezer.

Like you said, chest freezers have a finite life, so buying used you will deal with a dead chest freezer at some point (I think I've had 4-5 chest freezers die on me, all bought used). Even with that, I think it is the best route right now. Once you familiarize yourself with kegging, and are comfortable with the process, even if the chest freezer dies, it will be easy enough to either buy new at that point, or buy another used one. This also gives you time to save up more money if you decide that you do want a new chest freezer, or if you want to change directions to a fridge, or something else even.

I definitely feel that the money is better spent towards other items to help you get started, especially towards spare kegs. Not having enough kegs can drive you mad, and will bottleneck your pipeline.

Once you get things set up, you may find that you even want another small chest freezer as an 'on deck' place for kegs that are ready, or to use as a fermentation chamber, etc.

But, start simple, figure out what works for you, what doesn't work for you, and what your new goals are, then work from there. Let yourself try new things (within reason, and within your budget), and be willing to risk to make mistakes, so that if/when something doesn't go as planned, you will take it in stride. You may find that you figure out something that works for you that could help others some day!

Definitely keep us updated on your progress, and take pictures. Search through old threads, reading up as much as you can, but don't hesitate to ask questions here too, even if you think it is small - we may be able to help you avoid the mistakes that we've made!
 
The other advantage to just a tower is that it makes it much easier to swap to a new freezer.

Like you said, chest freezers have a finite life, so buying used you will deal with a dead chest freezer at some point (I think I've had 4-5 chest freezers die on me, all bought used). Even with that, I think it is the best route right now. Once you familiarize yourself with kegging, and are comfortable with the process, even if the chest freezer dies, it will be easy enough to either buy new at that point, or buy another used one. This also gives you time to save up more money if you decide that you do want a new chest freezer, or if you want to change directions to a fridge, or something else even.

I definitely feel that the money is better spent towards other items to help you get started, especially towards spare kegs. Not having enough kegs can drive you mad, and will bottleneck your pipeline.

Once you get things set up, you may find that you even want another small chest freezer as an 'on deck' place for kegs that are ready, or to use as a fermentation chamber, etc.

But, start simple, figure out what works for you, what doesn't work for you, and what your new goals are, then work from there. Let yourself try new things (within reason, and within your budget), and be willing to risk to make mistakes, so that if/when something doesn't go as planned, you will take it in stride. You may find that you figure out something that works for you that could help others some day!

Definitely keep us updated on your progress, and take pictures. Search through old threads, reading up as much as you can, but don't hesitate to ask questions here too, even if you think it is small - we may be able to help you avoid the mistakes that we've made!

Northern brewer is running a deal right now 20% off. What is your opinion on the draft brewer kegs? Looks like they are ball lock kegs. For 20% off of 299 I can get 2 kegs, distributor, CO2 regulator, gas lines, and a way to pour the beer seems like a decent deal to me.

I was thinking about this: http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/kegging/draft-brewer-dual-keg-system-new-ball-lock-w-manifold

Deal ends tonight at midnight.
 
I bought a Kenmore 19502 5.1 cu ft chest freezer for 80 bucks off CL.

Looked really small but the guy had 2 kegs and they fit in. It's in like new condition unsure of age.
It's odd I was conflicted thinking it was so small had to be only 3.5 Cu Ft but the model number starting with 19502 seems to be a 5.1 Cu Ft and it fits 2 kegs... so I'm assuming it has to be the 5.1 cu ft model. I don't think 3.5 cu ft would fit 2 kegs. Does anyone think I'm wrong and got swindled lol?

Looks like I could just buy two kegs and add a tap tower! Any other input for the build process is appreciated? I'll have to go back and read the rest of the advice I've received. I'm still undecided about building a collar vs adding a tower. I'm a little concerned about the gas lines fitting with the kegs in there. Looks like it'll fit, but I'm not sure how much clearance it needs above the black handles. Any tips?

I think the 2 kegs we put in it were ball lock.
Things are getting serious now haha.

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Northern brewer is running a deal right now 20% off. What is your opinion on the draft brewer kegs? Looks like they are ball lock kegs. For 20% off of 299 I can get 2 kegs, distributor, CO2 regulator, gas lines, and a way to pour the beer seems like a decent deal to me.

I was thinking about this: http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/kegging/draft-brewer-dual-keg-system-new-ball-lock-w-manifold

Deal ends tonight at midnight.

I was debating this same deal, I know it ended by now but I went through http://www.homebrewing.org/ and was able to price out a similar system (2 kegs, better reg and line) for the same if not less and with better parts (the regulator seemed to be getting panned in reviews on northern brewer). Just my .2 cents. Still haven't pulled the trigger but I probably will today
 
I was debating this same deal, I know it ended by now but I went through http://www.homebrewing.org/ and was able to price out a similar system (2 kegs, better reg and line) for the same if not less and with better parts (the regulator seemed to be getting panned in reviews on northern brewer). Just my .2 cents. Still haven't pulled the trigger but I probably will today

They just extended the deal!

I haven't looked up the regulator yet. I like how it comes with everything that I could start kegging even before I get the build finished.

When I hook my kegs up to gas will I still be able to close my lid? IE does the tubes etc take up extra space?
 
They just extended the deal!

I haven't looked up the regulator yet. I like how it comes with everything that I could start kegging even before I get the build finished.

When I hook my kegs up to gas will I still be able to close my lid? IE does the tubes etc take up extra space?

I saw that as well, if you read the reviews for the regulator on its own about half of them complained that it wouldnt display correct pressure. As you say though for the price its a good deal. On the link I mentioned though i was able to price 2 new kegs ($75 each) a Taprite regulator (which people seem to like, $50 and you need to add a manifold or they offer a $80 one with two valves) then the various ball locks ($5 each) and line (couple bucks at home depot or lowes) and cheaper shipping nets you a bit less or about the same

to your other questions, I am building myself in a kegerator but if you are looking at a keezer I know people often extend the tops for some extra room. in general it may involve some manuvering of all the lines to get it all to fit.
 
So! I decided to go with it.

I got 2 new ball lock kegs, the regulator, the distributor, 2 picnic taps, with all the connections already set up for ~250$ with tax. I live right by NB so no shipping costs. The owner was there and assured me if the regulator is crappy I could exchange it and pay the difference.

I had one dilemma - these 2 ball lock kegs BARELY fit, they rub against eachother a little bit but I was able to fit it without forcing it. I'm hoping a 5 lb CO2 tank with fit on the hump so that I can just use the picnic taps for the beginning of my kegging experience and build the keezer later on if I decide I want to. It looks like I have enough clearance to attach my tubing without obstructing the lid. I guess we'll see once I get everything hooked up.

I have a few questions - I don't know anything about cleaning the beer lines or about where to get new CO2. NB near me will exchange 5 lb CO2 tanks. They charge 100$ to get the first tank full, then like 15$ per exchange. Seems kinda pricey to me! I was told I could buy one off CL - but they will only do exchanges with 5 lb tanks.

I've heard keg lube is essential for kegging. Anyone have a specific brand I should buy? Also what exactly am I lubing? Is the the big seal where I fill the keg? Any other information, insight, and tips regarding kegging is greatly appreciate.

Since I now have 2 5 gallon kegs, I figured I'd need another fermenter so I could make 10 gallons at once for big parties. So I also got the 6.5 gallon big mouth bubbler with a spigot for easy transfers for 50$ (20% off today).

Now all I need is the CO2 tank! One question I had is - if I bought a 10 lb tank, and kept it outside the keezer, could I run the O2 lines under the lid without building my collar yet? Or would that lose too much cold? I'm pretty sure I can fit a 5 lb CO2 in the keezer, but just about certain a 10 lb wouldn't fit.

I appreciate all the input I've received on this thread.

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Those are some good-lookin kegs--much nicer than my motley collection. I think you'll enjoy that package.

Re: keg lube: I picked up a little pillbox container of "waterproof grease" in the o-ring section of Home Depot. It looks just like the containers that keg lube comes in, and I'm pretty sure it's the exact same thing: silicone grease. Any of it is just as good as the other and will last you an eternity. A little goes a VERY long way.
 
very nice, let us know how it works out. I ultimately went with the other package but that's nice that you live so close to them and can easily exchange that reg if there are issues, seems likes you got a great deal.
 
Nice deal! You can get keg lube at NB. I remember it being pretty cheap, and the one tube will last forever. I tend to use it on any rubber o-ring anytime I'm changing kegs. You will also want to get some BLC for cleaning your beer lines. Do a search for some of the beer line cleaner/pump ideas here. I made one from the design that uses a little hand pump sprayer that you can pickup at home depot. Most of the parts you can get at home depot, other than ball post which you can pickup at NB.

I don't think you can get away with just running the CO2 lines under the lid. I would think that would be a pretty large air gap.

One other thing you might want to pickup is a little thing of damp rid that you can throw in there. Moisture gets in every time you open the lid. Probably not an issue now, but I used to get it in the summer - especially when I had the picnic taps. It's hard on the regulators.

Better get busy on filling them up!
 
Nice deal! You can get keg lube at NB. I remember it being pretty cheap, and the one tube will last forever. I tend to use it on any rubber o-ring anytime I'm changing kegs. You will also want to get some BLC for cleaning your beer lines. Do a search for some of the beer line cleaner/pump ideas here. I made one from the design that uses a little hand pump sprayer that you can pickup at home depot. Most of the parts you can get at home depot, other than ball post which you can pickup at NB.

I don't think you can get away with just running the CO2 lines under the lid. I would think that would be a pretty large air gap.

One other thing you might want to pickup is a little thing of damp rid that you can throw in there. Moisture gets in every time you open the lid. Probably not an issue now, but I used to get it in the summer - especially when I had the picnic taps. It's hard on the regulators.

Better get busy on filling them up!

Thank you for the tips. I will look into the BLC and pump hadn't thought of that. So I see the giant o ring and the little o rings on the keg posts. Is that all for the lube?

Also any tips on purging kegs? I was going to watch a YouTube video. Do you purge before you fill or just after and any technique tips?

I'll get the damp rid. Still waiting to find a deal on co2. A guy I know can get me a deal on a 20lb tank but would probably have to then build a collar for it to fit. Or drill a hole in the top of the chest freezer for the gas line.

Anyone think I'll be able to make a 20 lb tank? is the good deal worth building a collar? or drilling a hole in the top/side?
 
Is building a collar really as simple as just buying a couple 2x6's, using a silicone adhesive, and attaching the lid on top of the new collar?

I have this opportunity to get a 20 lb CO2 tank, and it appeals to me because its cheap and will be less refills required. But it will necessitate that I add a collar. I don't really want to spend the money on the taps RIGHT AWAY, I'd rather just build the collar so I can use the CO2 tank to run the gas line. And then add taps later.

Does anyone think this is a bad idea- should I just wait and keep my eye out for a 5 lb tank?

(I can get a 20 lb tank for 50$)
 
I use lube on the big o-ring, the smaller ones on the poppets, and if I'm doing a full cleaning (I don't do this every fill, just when I feel it hasn't been done in a while), I'll use it on the little ring inside the poppet and the valve in the lid.

I only purge kegs before I fill if it's a hoppy beer like an IPA and I don't want any O2 contact. Otherwise, I just purge the air out after I fill it. I let it fill until I don't here any more going in, pull the valve, and repeat 3-4 times.

For the CO2 tank, I have a 5 lb. I don't go through as many kegs now that I've got 3 little guys running around, so it lasts long enough for me that I haven't felt a need to find a bigger tank. I only exchange it a few times a year. I initially got my kegging setup from midwest, and they gave me a used 5 lb with the setup. I just exchange those either at midwest or northern. Refills are under $20.

Yes, the collar really can be that simple. That's exactly what a lot of people do. You can use angle brackets to add some strength. Here's a video NB posted that shows a simple setup you can use for ideas: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHWy_Vlw3J4[/ame]
 
Thanks for the link!

I'm getting ready to fill my keg for the first time.

Any tips for the best way to sanitize lines/clean lines? I was looking online and it looks like they make hand pumps to pump the cleaner through - is that what you'd suggest I buy?

Any input appreciated.
Thanks!
 
The easiest way is when you sanitize your keg, just hook up the CO2, hook up the beer line, and push it through. The hand pump is good for when you are filling the keg and tapping the keg on different days.
 
Thanks for the link!



I'm getting ready to fill my keg for the first time.



Any tips for the best way to sanitize lines/clean lines? I was looking online and it looks like they make hand pumps to pump the cleaner through - is that what you'd suggest I buy?



Any input appreciated.

Thanks!


I can give $0.02 on this. I got a mark II keg washer and it is the best thing since sliced bread! Friggin love it! Will clean your legs and your fermenters and if you get the right fittings it'll clean your beer lines. A MUST HAVE IMO.
 
When you eventually discover a foaming issue you'll need to install a PC fan and extend your beer lines too...FYI.
 
I'd go with the 20lb tank. My 5lb cost $20 to refill and my 20lb costs $30. It would be $80 to get 20lbs form my 5lb. It kind of seamed silly to me not to get the 20lb tank.
 
You can go Super Hipster and use a tower, but add a 2x2 collar for your gas line. Then you can use the 20# tank without hindering your keg space.

A 5# tank costs $18 to swap by me. A 20# tank is $22.

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For cleaning my lines, I use a pond pump. I hook up a vinyl hose to the pump and I have a MFL flare on the other end. I use MFL ball locks so the beer lines already have the female MFL swivel nut. I put a silicone tube coming off the faucet back into the bucket with the pump and cleaning solution. Works like a champ and it's cheap, too. The pump is like $20 at Harbor Freight. Other big box stores probably sell them too. I did have to order the fitting that is a hose barb to male flare (from buyfittings I think).
 
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