Need an idea of what I need to keg

I have a mini fridge..it holds a 2.5 corny and a 5g corny (both which I have already) and enough room for my 5# CO2 tank. I have the faucets already (Perlick) and I have the regulator as well. I need to figure out whats left that I need to order...here is what I have so far

Wye gas splitter with valves
2 pairs of disconnects (gas and liquid)
2 2" shanks (fridge door is 1.5" thick)

I need to figure out what sort of size tubing I should be using for gas and liquid. I know there is 1/4" and 3/16". Any preferences? Also, the 2" shanks I am looking at dont have a nipple at the end to connect to the keg side. What parts do I need for that? Im also going to buy some replacement parts so I have them on hand. I know I want a couple sets of o-rings for my cornies. What else should I get? I suppose I need lube as well and some cleaner. Anybody have a suggestion or a link to a good complete article on what I need?

TIA
billpa

as far as your beer line goes. I would run the 1/4 on the input and 3/16 on the output. You will want your output line to be around 6' long to balance out the system.

anthrobe said:

as far as your beer line goes. I would run the 1/4 on the input and 3/16 on the output. You will want your output line to be around 6' long to balance out the system.

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Thanks. As far as disconnects go, is there one style better than the other? I mean, is the swivel nut style easier to work with then the straight barb? And if I go with a swivel nut style, I would then need a barb with a swivel nut, right?

Cheers,
billpa

billpa said:

Thanks. As far as disconnects go, is there one style better than the other? I mean, is the swivel nut style easier to work with then the straight barb? And if I go with a swivel nut style, I would then need a barb with a swivel nut, right?

Cheers,
billpa

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All of mine are barbed fitting. You can use the swivel nut but you will still need the barb end to connect the hose line. It really just comes down to preference. The less fittings, the easier it is for me to keep my system sealed tight. I am not sure about different styles of disconnects. Just make sure that if you are using ball lock kegs that you have ball lock discos. There is two types. One for the in (Co2) and one for the out (beer) that fit the keg posts.

I understand the differences with ball/pin and gas/liquid. Its the other stuff that I am not sure about. Good point with less fittings = less opportunities for leaks. I was just curious if its easier from the standpoint of disconnecting kegs etc.

Thanks
billpa

I'd say the flare fitting disconnects are only benefitial if you have a varied collection of both pin and ball lock kegs and have to swap out between them.

Now, since you're mounding your faucets in the door, you're actually going to want LONGER than 6 foot beerline runs. You can get away with 6 when you're running your faucets up higher in a tower, but not when they're almost inline with the kegs.

Get yourself 20 feet of 3/16" beverage line, 10 feet per faucet. I know it sounds like overkill, but you'll thank me later when you have perfect pours without messing with your pressures. Just coil the extra hose up and put some tie wraps on them.

On the gas side, you can use 3/16" or 1/4" ID tubing... 1/4" usually goes on the barbs easier. Hose length does not matter, make it neat. You might want to make them a little longer so you can attach the gas while the keg is outside the fridge.

I'm afraid your shanks might be too short for that door. The shank length usually includes the flange ring and faucet nut so the penetrating threads are more like 1.25" on a 2" shank. If you have shanks that have the nipple on the back, it might also include that in the measurement. I believe 2" shanks are only meant for towers (thin penetration). I could be wrong.

Don't forget clamps for all your hose and a cheap faucet wrench.

billpa said:

I understand the differences with ball/pin and gas/liquid. Its the other stuff that I am not sure about. Good point with less fittings = less opportunities for leaks. I was just curious if its easier from the standpoint of disconnecting kegs etc.

Thanks
billpa

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Once you get your lines cleaned, sanitized, and leak free you will really not have to mess with it for quite sometime. Every now and then you can fill a keg with beer line cleaner and run that through. Before I connect a new keg, I just lay the ball lock connector in a small bucket of sanitizer just to be safe. Never had a problem. I believe that I have some pics in my gallery of my lines and stuff.

I gonna give you a different prospective since all current comments are in agreement. I have both types barbed and compression fitting (swivel nut). I much prefer the compression fitting to the barb. I've got a beer gun so it comes in handy for that. And I'm the type of person that's always messing around with stuff and changing things. You may not be. Just wanted to give you another point of view.

Thanks for the info. Im curious about the gas line. You say 1/4" but I think the gas barbs are 5/16"? They sell 5/16" hose (red in color) specifically for gas. I suppose I can use either. Seems like the clear 1/4" line is thinner and more pliable but the 5/16" line is thicker.

I personally like using hose diameters that are slightly smaller than the barb they're going on. It almost makes it snug enough that you don't need a clamp. In any case, you'll have a better seal with 1/4". I like clear gas hose too because you can see if you have a beer backup about to hit the regulator.

Thanks for the info Bobby! Well this is what I have as an order list. Anything that I am missing?

(6) Stainless Steel Tubing Clamp
(2) Regulator Gasket
(2) Long Faucet Knob
(2) 3 5/8" Faucet Shank with welded nipple
(3) Ball Lock Gas Fitting Barbed
(2) O-Ring Set
6 ft Beer Line (1/4" ID)
20 ft Beer Line (3/16" ID)
(1) Wye Splitter Assembly w/ 5/16" Barb
BLC Beer Line Cleaner
Keg Lube
Shank Securing Wrench

Looks good but why 3 ball lock gas connectors and no beer line ball lock?

I think you want 2 gas and 2 beer.

Ah...I accidentally deleted a line. That should be 3 beer and 3 gas so I have a spare set.

I can think of another reason why I like compression fittings better than barbs.

The beer lines are a lot easier to disco for cleaning.

If you do go with the tubing, here's a tip to make putting it on easier. Boil some water and dip the end of the tube into it; it should soften up the end and make it a ton easier to slide on. When it cools back down, it'll regain it's stiffness and form a nice, tight seal with the barb.

hocus-pocus-by-focus said:

I can think of another reason why I like compression fittings better than barbs.

The beer lines are a lot easier to disco for cleaning.

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I don't disconnect my lines to clean. When I kick a keg, I rinse it out, fill it with hot sanitizer and dispense it through the disconnect, beer line, and faucet. Now everything is ready for the next batch including the keg.