Single Vessle EBIAB Plan

I am in the process of planning out my electric brewery and would like to get some input from everyone here. I am planning this in phases, Phase One being a single vessle PWM controlled system (no pumps). But my ultimate vision is to have 3 vessel HERMS system with a BCS to automate things.

So here is what I have planned out so far. For the BK I will use a Sanke keg and will put a bottom drain in place of the ball valve. Here is my parts list:

SS 3 piece ball valve
2" Tri Clover to 1/2" Male NPT
2" Tri Clover Clamp
2" EPDM Sanitary Gasket
1/2" x 8" stainless nipple <- Need a source for this in SS
1/2" SS 90° FPT x FPT Elbow
1/2" Full Bore hose barb
1/2" Silcone Tubing - 15 ft
6" Thermowell
Weldless Thermometer Install Kit
Miljoco Thermometer w/ 6" stem


As for the Heating Element, I used Kal's site as a guide:

5500 watt ULWD Heat Element

Metal Box
Metal Cover
10/3 Wiring
3 Wire Plug


Lastly, for the control panel...I am using a box that is large enough for some expansion later but not super huge to make this phase 1 look silly. I would like to have a key control the power and also have a green light when the main power is on. The heating element would be controlled by the red illuminated switch and the PWM would turn the power up and down. A yellow push button would be used as an emergency shut off.

Weigmann SC121204GNK Enclosure
40a SSR
PWM - Bakatronics
22mm Illuminated Switch - Red
22mm Switch with Key
22mm Light - Green
22mm Emergency Stop
Receptacle

I feel that this system will let me get my "feet wet" in the electric brewing game, but also let me expand later without sacrificing too much. The only item here that I see would be replaced is the Thermometer, which I could probably sell.

OK, so here are some of my questions that might get the conversation started here...

- Is the 6" thermowell OK for the BK? Should I go shorter with it?
- Will the Switches I listed work in the control panel?
- Should I add some breakers or fuses to my control panel?

Also, I forgot to mention that this is going to be 220v 30a from a spa panel (which I already have)

What are you going to use the galvanized steel nipple for? I would not use that for any component that is going to come in contact with the wort and stick with copper or stainless steel.

BTW: You are not getting many replies as your inital post is very complex and requires a lot of investigation just to sort it out. 28 links that are really long and hard to cypher just to see 'stuff'.

Just saying...

For instance: Your first item:
SS 3 piece ball valve



And so on...

(I'm sorry, I'm not being critical, I'm just trying to make it easier for everyone to see and respond.)

borny said:

What are you going to use the galvanized steel nipple for? I would not use that for any component that is going to come in contact with the wort and stick with copper or stainless steel.

Click to expand...

Excellent observation. Also Brass is A-Ok as long as it is treated per John Palmer.

borny said:

What are you going to use the galvanized steel nipple for? I would not use that for any component that is going to come in contact with the wort and stick with copper or stainless steel.

Click to expand...

I was planning on using that to connect the ball valve to the Tri Clover. I would definitely rather use stainless, but did not see any one the normal sites and at HD or lowes...any suggestions?

P-J said:

BTW: You are not getting many replies as your inital post is very complex and requires a lot of investigation just to sort it out. 28 links that are really long and hard to cypher just to see 'stuff'.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I know - sorry I rushed it last night and the nice clean links from my excel sheet did not translate well to this forum. I will clean them up. Thanks.

For the 8" stainless nipple (pipe?), I imagine you could find it at McMaster Carr or possibly Murray Equipment.

jpalarchio said:

For the 8" stainless nipple (pipe?), I imagine you could find it at McMaster Carr or possibly Murray Equipment.

Click to expand...

ebay!

thats where i got mine at

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PIPE-NIPPLE...ltDomain_0&hash=item2eacc57d1b#ht_1701wt_1110

bagpiperjosh said:

ebay!

thats where i got mine at

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PIPE-NIPPLE...ltDomain_0&hash=item2eacc57d1b#ht_1701wt_1110

Click to expand...

This one would work right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PIPE-NIPPLE...ltDomain_0&hash=item2c5690b6f2#ht_1701wt_1163

Can anyone tell if the switches I listed will work with this set up? Has anyone else done something similar to this?

Just an observation, for the cost of your thermometer, thermowell and the PWM control board you can have a PID controller, they are readily available for $40 or less on Ebay. It will give you set & forget for the temperature instead of trying to dial it in. Up to you if you want to install the thermocouple in the pot or just stick it in the mash.

CS223 said:

Just an observation, for the cost of your thermometer, thermowell and the PWM control board you can have a PID controller, they are readily available for $40 or less on Ebay. It will give you set & forget for the temperature instead of trying to dial it in. Up to you if you want to install the thermocouple in the pot or just stick it in the mash.

Click to expand...

Yeah I have wrestled with this. I could get the pid, but no therm sensor. And since I plan on going with a bcs control later on, I figured the pwm and thermo couple would be usable in the bcs system. I could just sell the analog thermometer.

The other thought I had was to go with a smaller box that I could then sell as a compete control unit with pwm when I go bcs. Still thinking about this one.

Thanks for your input though, this exactly what I am looking for.

Sorry duplicate post....Android app

CS223 said:

Just an observation, for the cost of your thermometer, thermowell and the PWM control board you can have a PID controller, they are readily available for $40 or less on Ebay. It will give you set & forget for the temperature instead of trying to dial it in. Up to you if you want to install the thermocouple in the pot or just stick it in the mash.

Click to expand...

I haven't had good luck at all controlling mash temps with the PID since the grain/bad will settle in a form an insulating layer between the heater and the sensor. The PID is nice for establishing mash-in temp though and works really nice for doing infusion-step mashes in a second container. I ended up with both in the end, PID for setting mash-in temperatures and PWM for controlling boil strength. The Auber PID would be ideal in my situation, but would become obsolete when the BCS is employed.

Can anyone confirm this parts list will work? Interested mostly in the control panel parts, switches and lights, etc....

bringing this one back from the dead. haven't brewed in a couple of years and starting to get the itch again

does anyone have experience using this kit? http://www.ebrewsupply.com/ebrew-kits/bcs-controlled/bcs-2-element-2-pumps-30a-kit.html