Sabco Sanke Fermentor - anyone use these?

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schristian619

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Does anyone have one of these? How do they compare to say a Blichmann conical? I like the conical style more asthetically, but the sanke seem easier in terms of fermentation chamber space and moving around. I would be interested to hear how the yeast harvesting compares as well. I'm in the planning stages if expanding my brewery and equipment and could use some fermentation suggestions, as I'd like to get away from carboys and I'd rather ferment at least 10 gallons in one fermentor.
 
I don't know about the Sabco product, but I use a regular Sanke all the time. I even use it for pressurized fermentation. Conicals, at least the ones I have seen, won't allow for this much pressure to be used in them. Kegs are king! Yeast is easy enough to harvest as well. If you have a CO2 bottle and keg taps then it is just like serving beer. Add your wash water, shake it up, then push the yeasty-beer-water into your collection vessel for sedimentation and racking of the yeast. Easy-pleezy-lemon squeezy.
 
I have a 7.5gal conical and a 1/2bbl keg and by far the keg gets more use... partially due to larger batch sizes and partly due to being able to pressurize the keg to move beer and carbonate. The conical is really nice for taking samples and harvesting yeast, but I've been lazy lately and been sticking with the kegs. Read WortMonger's thread from start to finish and you will immediately see how easy it is to use kegs... I know I did. I started off with just the orange carboy cap and a SS racking cane, which is all you need to get started really. More advanced fittings can be found here:

http://www.stpats.com/images2007/ModifiedEndCapnew.jpg

or here:

http://www.brewershardware.com/fermenter.htm

Save your money and purchase a used keg to use as a fermenter, if I had seen the benefits before I would likely have never bought the conical.
 
I would like to do this but my main question is how do you rack the fermented beer out without taking a bunch of trub and yeast with it?

Do you just have to start the flow and pull up until you have clear beer?

Also how do you clean it without seeing or being able to get your hand inside?
 
I would like to do this but my main question is how do you rack the fermented beer out without taking a bunch of trub and yeast with it?

Do you just have to start the flow and pull up until you have clear beer?

Also how do you clean it without seeing or being able to get your hand inside?
Do a search for Sanke fermenters in this forum for more information, but basically... Slow and Low that is the Tempo!!! If you are using a Sanke "as is" with the dip tube assembly in place, just go slow. You will pick up a little sediment initially, but not much. I cut my dip tube and wish I hadn't now. The initial yeast that makes it into your serving keg is minimal and will get sucked into the first couple of pints, providing you aren't moving the keg around restirring it after tapping it. If you move it, be prepared for a few more dusty pints until it pours clear again.

It is very easy, and like RiverCityBrewer was saying; an orange carboy cap and a plastic dip tube work just fine as well. It is as hard or easy as you want to make it. It is second nature to me now, and I pressure ferment and everything. Yeast getting stirred up in my technique is still minimal into the serving keg, and my beer is carbonated....:ban: I wish I hadn't cut my dip tube due to yeast harvesting. If I had left it alone, I would get a lot more after adding my wash water after a fermentation.

Cleaning a Sanke is the same as cleaning a carboy, you just can't see it to inspect it. Use Oxy or PBW and don't worry. If you are a worry wort, like me, clean it twice. After you use a Sanke once, I bet you are hooked.:rockin: Seriously though, do a search as there is a ton of info on here and I just summed it up.
 
Also how do you clean it without seeing or being able to get your hand inside?

Tiny hands, sir. Tiny hands. :D

bk_tinyhands.jpg
 
Do a search for Sanke fermenters in this forum for more information, but basically... Slow and Low that is the Tempo!!! If you are using a Sanke "as is" with the dip tube assembly in place, just go slow. You will pick up a little sediment initially, but not much. I cut my dip tube and wish I hadn't now. The initial yeast that makes it into your serving keg is minimal and will get sucked into the first couple of pints, providing you aren't moving the keg around restirring it after tapping it. If you move it, be prepared for a few more dusty pints until it pours clear again.

It is very easy, and like RiverCityBrewer was saying; an orange carboy cap and a plastic dip tube work just fine as well. It is as hard or easy as you want to make it. It is second nature to me now, and I pressure ferment and everything. Yeast getting stirred up in my technique is still minimal into the serving keg, and my beer is carbonated....:ban: I wish I hadn't cut my dip tube due to yeast harvesting. If I had left it alone, I would get a lot more after adding my wash water after a fermentation.

Cleaning a Sanke is the same as cleaning a carboy, you just can't see it to inspect it. Use Oxy or PBW and don't worry. If you are a worry wort, like me, clean it twice. After you use a Sanke once, I bet you are hooked.:rockin: Seriously though, do a search as there is a ton of info on here and I just summed it up.

Ok, sounds good, thanks for the info. I need to see if one will fit in my freezer now. Also how are you sealing it to hold the pressure in? Also, are you just waiting until close to the end to get the last few gravity point drops to help carb?
 
Check out my link in my signature. It will tell you how I roll! LOL, I use a keg as God made it... well mine is cut (like Abraham), lol. Snake with a sweater is fine though, lol.

I pressure ferment, so I'm at 10-12 psi during the entire fermentation. Then, I completely close off the keg a couple of points shy of FG and get my carbonation. It will work with a carboy cap and airlock, and then completely sealing (with dip tube assembly and snap ring) a couple of points shy of FG. As long as you "spund" (close up) at the end, you will get your carbonation (same as a bottle).
 
Hey guys, I’m new to the forum and figured this would be a great thread to open on. I have a Sabco Sanke fermentor and am looking at moving to conicals. My biggest complaint is Sabco’s racking method. The racking cane is horizontal and adjustable (I posted pics in my gallery). It’s tough to see how deep your trub/yeast layer is inside a closed Sanke (vs. carboy for example) – so you’re really shooting in the dark when adjusting the cane prior to racking. You really need to use it to get used to it.

What’s nice about a conical is that you can bottom dump your yeast and trub and get most of it out prior to racking for a cleaner transfer from primary to secondary. It’s much easier to do in a conical than a Sanke fermentor. Today I filter from primary Sanke to secondary Sanke with a coarse plate filter and it takes forever. I’d like to start re-using my yeast and ditch the filter so a conical makes the best sense for me now. I’d just prefer not to fork out the cash for 2 new 14gallon conical’s right now when I have perfectly good Sanke’s.

Anyone want to buy a Sabco Sanke https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/images/smilies/rainfro.gif
 
I would love to start fermenting in sanke kegs but there are two things holding me back.
1.) I don't do large enough batches to justify it. I only do 5.5 gallon batches.
2.) Space

As far as blichmann vs sanke, I'd go with sanke if you can get one "second hand" :) Just the cost alone is enough to justify it. If you are looking for a conversion kit for a sanke check out this website http://www.brewershardware.com/fermenter.htm They offer an attachment that connects on the top of your sanke with a tri-clover clamp.
 
I would love to start fermenting in sanke kegs but there are two things holding me back.
1.) I don't do large enough batches to justify it. I only do 5.5 gallon batches.
2.) Space

As far as blichmann vs sanke, I'd go with sanke if you can get one "second hand" :) Just the cost alone is enough to justify it. If you are looking for a conversion kit for a sanke check out this website http://www.brewershardware.com/fermenter.htm They offer an attachment that connects on the top of your sanke with a tri-clover clamp.

Mine came in the mail today !!! Can't wait to use it. Darrin does some really nice work on them.
 
The conversion kits are interesting - I'm thinking about picking a couple up to convert 2 quarter barrel kegs for smaller 3-4 gallon batches. I'll use conicals for larger batches.

You have to buy a valve removal tool and keg knives to get the valve out - correct? That's what holding me back at this point. It's an added $100 for the tools needed for the first conversion - if you do 2 conversions then it's $50...etc. Add that to the cost of loosing your deposit :>0 and you're at roughly $320 total cost w/ conversion fitting.

Sabco's Fermenter is $369, so their pricing isn't that out of line. They also have a wider lid (which may or may not provide better access), a thermometer port w/ thermo and an adjustable racking cane (which I don't like much...).

Is the thermo, the adjustable racking cane and the wider lid in the Sabco worth the extra $49 to the buyer...? I'm on the fence on this one...
 
You have to buy a valve removal tool and keg knives to get the valve out - correct?

No, they just make the process easier but are completely unnecessary. Most people use a flat head screwdriver and a pair of pliers to remove the spiral rings. After a little bit of practice, you can remove and install a spear in under 5 minutes.

That said, I replaced the spiral rings on my four kegs with snap rings, which requires a $10 tool to insert and remove. Far from expensive. ;)
 
The conversion kits are interesting - I'm thinking about picking a couple up to convert 2 quarter barrel kegs for smaller 3-4 gallon batches. I'll use conicals for larger batches.

You have to buy a valve removal tool and keg knives to get the valve out - correct? That's what holding me back at this point. It's an added $100 for the tools needed for the first conversion - if you do 2 conversions then it's $50...etc. Add that to the cost of loosing your deposit :>0 and you're at roughly $320 total cost w/ conversion fitting.

Sabco's Fermenter is $369, so their pricing isn't that out of line. They also have a wider lid (which may or may not provide better access), a thermometer port w/ thermo and an adjustable racking cane (which I don't like much...).

Is the thermo, the adjustable racking cane and the wider lid in the Sabco worth the extra $49 to the buyer...? I'm on the fence on this one...

A friend of mine has a couple of Sabco sanke fermenters for sale and is letting me try one out. The trouble is that I don't have anything that fits the threads for the racking port or the top. I looked on Sabco's site for these and couldn't find anything useful. Does anyone have a link for parts for these?
 
lamarguy is right, screwdriver and plyers are all you need. Also, you can do this with kegging equipment you already have (no need to buy a fancy kit, even though he really does do great work on his product). If you have kegs and a kegerator, then you obviously have a Sanke tap connection. Now you have everything you need to use a Sanke as a fermenter. Want to do it under pressure? Build a spunding valve! Want to save a lot more money? Buy an orange carboy cap and a long plastic dip tube, and then you have the cheap-o rig that works great. There is no limit to a Sanke's use as a fermenter. They handle more pressure than even the big boys use with their "unitanks, not to mention their being "universal" in use within your brewery as a serving vessel. What fermenter can say that? ;) gotta love the Sanke.
 

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