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MTBrew5058

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My brew has been in the carboy for three weeks ran into problems and was unable to bottle. Is the brew bad now, should I dump it or can it be saved?
 
You'll find that more and more recipes these days do not advocate moving to a secondary at all, but mention primary for a month, which is starting to reflect the shift in brewing culture that has occurred in the last 4 years, MOSTLY because of many of us on here, skipping secondary, opting for longer primaries, and writing about it. Recipes in BYO have begun stating that in their magazine. I remember the "scandal" it caused i the letters to the editor's section a month later, it was just like how it was here when we began discussing it, except a lot more civil than it was here. But after the Byo/Basic brewing experiment, they started reflecting it in their recipes.

This is the latest recommendation, it is the same one many of us have been giving for several years on here.

John Palmer said:
Tom from Michigan asks:
I have a few questions about secondary fermentations. I've read both pros and cons for 2nd fermentations and it is driving me crazy what to do. One, are they necessary for lower Gravity beers?
Two, what is the dividing line between low gravity and high gravity beers? Is it 1.060 and higher?
Three, I have an American Brown Ale in the primary right now, a SG of 1.058, Should I secondary ferment this or not?
Your advice is appreciated, thanks for all you do!

Allen from New York asks:

John, please talk about why or why not you would NOT use a secondary fermenter (bright tank?) and why or why not a primary only fermentation is a good idea. In other words, give some clarification or reason why primary only is fine, versus the old theory of primary then secondary normal gravity ale fermentations.

Palmer answers:

These are good questions – When and why would you need to use a secondary fermenter? First some background – I used to recommend racking a beer to a secondary fermenter. My recommendation was based on the premise that (20 years ago) larger (higher gravity) beers took longer to ferment completely, and that getting the beer off the yeast reduced the risk of yeast autolysis (ie., meaty or rubbery off-flavors) and it allowed more time for flocculation and clarification, reducing the amount of yeast and trub carryover to the bottle. Twenty years ago, a homebrewed beer typically had better flavor, or perhaps less risk of off-flavors, if it was racked off the trub and clarified before bottling. Today that is not the case.

The risk inherent to any beer transfer, whether it is fermenter-to-fermenter or fermenter-to-bottles, is oxidation and staling. Any oxygen exposure after fermentation will lead to staling, and the more exposure, and the warmer the storage temperature, the faster the beer will go stale.

Racking to a secondary fermenter used to be recommended because staling was simply a fact of life – like death and taxes. But the risk of autolysis was real and worth avoiding – like cholera. In other words, you know you are going to die eventually, but death by cholera is worth avoiding.

But then modern medicine appeared, or in our case, better yeast and better yeast-handling information. Suddenly, death by autolysis is rare for a beer because of two factors: the freshness and health of the yeast being pitched has drastically improved, and proper pitching rates are better understood. The yeast no longer drop dead and burst like Mr. Creosote from Monty Python’s The Meaning of Life when fermentation is complete – they are able to hibernate and wait for the next fermentation to come around. The beer has time to clarify in the primary fermenter without generating off-flavors. With autolysis no longer a concern, staling becomes the main problem. The shelf life of a beer can be greatly enhanced by avoiding oxygen exposure and storing the beer cold (after it has had time to carbonate).

Therefore I, and Jamil and White Labs and Wyeast Labs, do not recommend racking to a secondary fermenter for ANY ale, except when conducting an actual second fermentation, such as adding fruit or souring. Racking to prevent autolysis is not necessary, and therefore the risk of oxidation is completely avoidable. Even lagers do not require racking to a second fermenter before lagering. With the right pitching rate, using fresh healthy yeast, and proper aeration of the wort prior to pitching, the fermentation of the beer will be complete within 3-8 days (bigger = longer). This time period includes the secondary or conditioning phase of fermentation when the yeast clean up acetaldehyde and diacetyl. The real purpose of lagering a beer is to use the colder temperatures to encourage the yeast to flocculate and promote the precipitation and sedimentation of microparticles and haze.

So, the new rule of thumb: don’t rack a beer to a secondary, ever, unless you are going to conduct a secondary fermentation.

THIS is where the latest discussion and all your questions answered.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/secondary-not-john-palmer-jamil-zainasheff-weigh-176837/

We basically proved that old theory wrong on here 5 years ago, and now the rest fo the brewing community is catching up. Though a lot of old dogs don't tend to follow the latest news, and perpetuate the old stuff.

My beers stay in primary for a month, then the normal grav beers spend another month carbing and conditioning.

I bottled a beer that was in primary for 5.5 months and it was perfectly fine.
 
My brew has been in the carboy for three weeks ran into problems and was unable to bottle. Is the brew bad now, should I dump it or can it be saved?

well lucky you ran into some problems ;) 3 weeks is a minimum I would leave my beer on primary. your good to go
 
Lucky you. your now probably going to have a better beer. I know i did i just had my first almost 4 week beer and it tastes really good . comparitivly noticable to the one week two week three week batches i have done. despite having broken my hydro for the first time tasting my beer @ almost 4 weeks made me go " holy crap this is going to be awesome- my girlfriend wanted to drink all of my hydro sample up and i still need it to check to get a new hydrometer.
 
I would be excited and not able to sleep being worried how frigging awesome its gonna be. ha
 
So after reading this I was just curious, is there a reason to rack to secondary with fruit? Is oxidization from dropping fruit in top rather than racking on top of it the only concern? What about dry hopping or adding spices after fermentation? Is it better to add them to the primary or to rack on top in a secondary?
 
Racking for additional flavor additions, I think, is more a matter of personal choice. For the first addition, you could do it in the primary (washing the yeast, if you're going to, could be a bit more involved). If you're planning on adding additional flavor elements, then I think it's better to rack onto the next in line. That way, you don't need to worry about the first element continuing to add to the brew, beyond what you wanted.

I think it's easier to rack between the different (post primary) flavor element additions than to try and get the flavors to meld better over a long bulk aging time frame.

I have a vanilla honey porter in process now, that I had racked onto a vanilla bean (so that I could harvest/wash the yeast). I racked it off of the bean after several days (probably could have racked sooner, my bad) and now have it with some oak chips. The oak I placed into a mesh bag, so that I can simply remove them when it's time, and leave the brew in the same carboy.
 
Cool thanks for the quick answer. I just couldn't think of any other reason than oxidization and was curious because it seems like all I've seen is recommendations to rack for flavor additions but in my mind the less I move it or touch it the less risk something could go wrong. Hell I don't even start taking hydrometer readings until 2 weeks. Sliding any flavor additions in without splashing can't be much worse than sticking the thief in a few times right?
 
It all depends on what you're adding and how you do it... If you're careful, you should be kosher. If you don't let the carboy remain open too long, then I don't think you'll have issues.

If you get a good siphon going, you'll not really need to worry (too much) about oxidization.

I would say that waiting 2 weeks before taking your first hydrometer reading/sample is a good thing. I'm giving my brews 2-3 weeks before taking a sample/reading now (since being educated on the benefits of a longer primary)...

In the end, try it out and see how things work. I would just be sure to take notes on what you did and such. That way, if things are not as you expected/hoped, then at least you can look back (clearly) and see where things might have gone different.
 
Another approach when using fruit or other additions would be to add the material towards the end (but not after) primary fermentation is complete, which will allow the flavors that would be imparted in secondary to occur in the primary fermenter and the added benefit of assuring (or restoring) the carbon blanket as the yeast will still be very active.
 
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