American Pale Ale Three Floyds Zombie Dust Clone

YukonLT said:

Bottled my first attempt at this one last night. Already tastes delicious. Can't wait for it to carb up and chill!

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aeskew said:

Brewed my first batch of the recipe last weekend. Was wondering if the cold crashing is a necessary step? I have never done this before and I am not sure if I am up for it.

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BeerPower said:

Skeezer, et al.

I joined this forum today specifically for the purpose of singing this recipe’s praises. I made the 5-gallon PM version but used a 5 # grain bill. So 2.5 lbs 2-Row and 4.5 lbs. DME. Everything else in the recipe remained the same. Used Wyeast 1968 with a 1L starter on a stir plate and dry-hopped for 9 days. 2 weeks bottle conditioning at room temp, 1 more week conditioning in the fridge. The end result? WOW is this sh*t good! I absolutely love it! I’ve had ZD many times, especially the old recipe when it was 100% citra, and I have to say this is damn close. What an amazing recipe. Thanks so much for sharing. I plan on making this again, and again, and again, and again… probably trying different yeasts along the way. Think I'll use S-04 on the next one and see how that turns out. Then probably WLP001 on the third batch.




Cold crashing isn't necessary. I didn't cold crash mine and it turned out fine. It was clearer before the dry hop, but still looks great to me. Here's a pic:

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jimbohlia said:

I am thinking about brewing this up by while looking for ingredients I could only find Melanoiden and not Melanoidin as spelled out in the recipe. Is this the same malt with a different spelling?

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donjonson said:

I just brewed this beer and I am worried.... let me explain:

primary 1 mo
no secondary

After the 1 mo primary I racked to keg and spent 3 weeks simultaneously cold crashing, dry hopping 4 oz, and carbing.

as it was carbing I was taking samples and I had a few concerns.

1) it is WAY cloudy! I believe I have gotten through all the yeast settlement so the cloudiness is unexplained.
2) seems to have a very high surface tension. example: before it was fully carbed I would pour into glass and little droplets of beer would glide around on the surface for a few seconds before absorbing into the beer this is weird. and concerns me a bit.
3) I used those squished marbles to weigh down the hop bag when dry hopping. the problem is some of the marbles had some sort of coating. I am hoping that none of that absorbed into the beer. I am concerned that it is perhaps not safe to drink even though it tastes and smells great.

any ideas?

do you think the clouyness is from the marbles or some natural phenomenon related to yeast or dryhopping?

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scrub0bk said:

So i don't have the capability to mash the munich 10L, can i use a munich DME as a substitute? if so how much? if that won't work should i use another steeping grain?

thanks all

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scrub0bk said:

So i don't have the capability to mash the munich 10L, can i use a munich DME as a substitute? if so how much? if that won't work should i use another steeping grain?

thanks all

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• Instead of filling your brewpot and steeping in that, just use less water (people often recommend 1.25 qts per pound of grain)
• heat to the appropriate temp (you'll want to go a bit higher than your desired mash temp because dropping room-temp grains in will chill it down a bit, this calculator will give you a target temp to start at: http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml)
• put your grain bag in (you'll want a large, loosely packed bag so that most/all grain is under the relatively low water line, many people use a cheap large paint strainer from Home Depot), stir the grain well to ensure it's all exposed to the water, cover the pot with a towel/blanket and let it sit for ~ 45 mins
• "sparge" by pouring some slightly warmer water (lots of theories, I've been using 160 F) over the grain bag to rinse remaining sugars off of the grains.
• fill your brewpot and carry on with your brew day.

fosaisu said:

If you can steep you can do a partial mash -- it's really the same thing just with less water and at slightly lower temps!

• Instead of filling your brewpot and steeping in that, just use less water (people often recommend 1.25 qts per pound of grain)
• heat to the appropriate temp (you'll want to go a bit higher than your desired mash temp because dropping room-temp grains in will chill it down a bit, this calculator will give you a target temp to start at: http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml)
• put your grain bag in (you'll want a large, loosely packed bag so that most/all grain is under the relatively low water line, many people use a cheap large paint strainer from Home Depot), stir the grain well to ensure it's all exposed to the water, cover the pot with a towel/blanket and let it sit for ~ 45 mins
• "sparge" by pouring some slightly warmer water (lots of theories, I've been using 160 F) over the grain bag to rinse remaining sugars off of the grains.
• fill your brewpot and carry on with your brew day.

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scrub0bk said:

Awesome thank you for this. Should I just steep the rest if the grains after that or should I do this for all of the specialty grains in this batch?

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jammin said:

Beerpower - where did you get that glass?

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BeerPower said:

Hi Jammin. My apologies for the huge delay replying. That glass is an antique. It's a hand me down from my dad's basement bar. I think he's had the set since the mid 70's. I'll see if he remembers any details next time I see him, but in the meantime I'd suggest checking some antique malls.

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