So...You Want to Breed Your Own Hops.

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How long should you stratify the seeds for? I have read through a lot of the hop growing forums as well as websites all around the internet. I have seen someone state that germination rates are best at 3 months cold stratification, but I have also seen someone post that 1 week gives the best germination rate. What do you guys think?
 
There are three things that matter primarily when stratifying seed.

Moisture, temperature, and time.

The seeds need to have moisture, the seed coat must weaken, which is accomplished by the seed imbibing water and leaching out chemicals present in the seed coat that will prevent germination.

Temperature will influence the uptake of water as well as how long the seed must be stratified for. Optimal stratification temperatures are NOT below freezing. Stratification is optimal at 42-46 degrees fahrenheit (3-5 degrees celsius). Why? Water is most dense at this temperature point.

Stratification will occur at slightly lower or higher temperatures than the above optimal ones, but it will take much longer and result in uneven germination. If it is freezing or below, guess what? The seed has water in it (albeit, a minute amount) and thus, the seeds will be frozen!!

Time, for MOST temperate plant species, is influenced by other factors. Generally speaking though 6-8 weeks of temperatures near 44 degrees F, in a moist (not saturated or soggy, but not dry!) soil/potting mix will result in the greatest germination.

All of this is dependent on other things that could be inhibiting germination, dormancy-promoting chemicals, hard seed coats (basswood seeds for instance, it generally takes two seasons to germinate because it requires removal of the hard seed coat and it must be stratified. The fluctuating temperatures across seasons breaks the seed coat, allowing the seed to imbibe water and germinate).

But really, what it comes down to is finding what works best for you. If you find a method that guarantees you some success, keep with it!
 
Stratification will occur at slightly lower or higher temperatures than the above optimal ones, but it will take much longer and result in uneven germination. If it is freezing or below, guess what? The seed has water in it (albeit, a minute amount) and thus, the seeds will be frozen!!


Just to say that I had so many seeds on hand that on my last try, I have put a small lot of seeds in the freezer for 1 week (...prior to the freezer, they had a 2 days of water intake). Guess what ? A bunch of them have sprout after putting them at room temperature.

My thinking behind that test was: wild hops strains mostly grow in cold climate where there is a Winter and temperature below the freezing point. During Falls, seeds fall on the ground and they receive cold rain, retain that water and they freeze during the winter. Then they sprout during Spring.

I was afraid that freezing temperature might kill the seeds because of the water intake, but I was able to get seedling out of those seeds.

But the fridge is enough to trick the seeds that they went through Winter. :rockin:
 
Just to say that I had so many seeds on hand that on my last try, I have put a small lot of seeds in the freezer for 1 week (...prior to the freezer, they had a 2 days of water intake). Guess what ? A bunch of them have sprout after putting them at room temperature.



My thinking behind that test was: wild hops strains mostly grow in cold climate where there is a Winter and temperature below the freezing point. During Falls, seeds fall on the ground and they receive cold rain, retain that water and they freeze during the winter. Then they sprout during Spring.



I was afraid that freezing temperature might kill the seeds because of the water intake, but I was able to get seedling out of those seeds.



But the fridge is enough to trick the seeds that they went through Winter. :rockin:


I'm glad this worked for you and that it was successful.

I'll say this, in general, seeds that are formed later in the season, which are generally a result of short day plants mature and fall to the ground in fall. There is generally moisture present and the temperature is falling readily. Then winter comes and winter leaves, followed by spring. Which for some of us can be full of rain and dry for others, but the temperature is rising. Those periods of temperature above freezing are actually the stratification process.

Plants are amazing, the seeds have "remembered" the length of time for which they've been exposed to these conditions.

Part of it will also depend on the temperature in your freezer, as the amount of starch present in the seeds (think of the starch as the food reserves for that seed to survive until it germinates), will actually decrease the freezing point, (this is a result of solution chemistry, analogous to placing salt on the sidewalk). So stratification will still occur, but again the main factors here being temperature and time.


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Yesterday i found a hop bush(calling it that because it has been there for many many years and no pruning ever). I assume it was planted there on purpose. So i thought to myself i could use another hop or two. So i collected two rhizomes. My question.... is there a way to find out what species it is? I have several different hop varieties currently and do not really have room for something i already have. Well so swmbo says.


Also is graphing an option with hops? I have experimented with graphing mostly on trees and flowers. Never did a vine.....
 
Yesterday i found a hop bush(calling it that because it has been there for many many years and no pruning ever). I assume it was planted there on purpose. So i thought to myself i could use another hop or two. So i collected two rhizomes. My question.... is there a way to find out what species it is? I have several different hop varieties currently and do not really have room for something i already have. Well so swmbo says.


Also is graphing an option with hops? I have experimented with graphing mostly on trees and flowers. Never did a vine.....


BR hit the nose on the grafting portion there, which I also had a conversation in my lab the other day about. Even if you were to successfully graft the plant, and successfully harvest, etc. You would have to make yearly grafts.

Even if you reached a point where you could retain the graft from year to year, what do you do about rhizomes? Two varieties on on plant is only a novelty when you can't turn and sell your hops to a brewer because they're not pure varietals.

To the second piece of that, yes you can identify the species, and a trained taxonomic professional could probably identify the subvariety, but trying to identify the cultivar would take molecular evidence to actually identify, and I say that because so many varieties are so closely related that their phenological characteristics are not conclusive evidence for proper ID.

This is evident in the USDA GRIN database, even several H. lupulus were misidentified as H. japonicus for a number of years before close examination proved otherwise.



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Thanks for the reply! i agreed on the graphing part however i wasnt sure if you could graph the rhizome therefore it would re grow every year??? Everything i ever graphed was above ground. Thought if a little hydroponics was used if you could preserve the graph under a medium.... I am by know means an expert just like to tinker and try different experiments. I love science possibilities are endless!

As far as my hops i can try to use the smell test to compare it to a hop i already have. Also compare the vine and leaves. to make an educated guess so to speak.. But also could be very wrong.
 
I didn't really think of that, but I guess you could graft and perhaps keep a part of the scion portion under a little dirt and get it to become a rhizomes by keeping it covered in dirt. You could potentially end up with a dual variety rhizome.

It wouldn't make commercial sense and maybe not even practical sense, but it would be interesting from a scientific perspective.
 
I didn't really think of that, but I guess you could graft and perhaps keep a part of the scion portion under a little dirt and get it to become a rhizomes by keeping it covered in dirt. You could potentially end up with a dual variety rhizome.

It wouldn't make commercial sense and maybe not even practical sense, but it would be interesting from a scientific perspective.


Indeed it would!


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Yesterday i found a hop bush(calling it that because it has been there for many many years and no pruning ever). I assume it was planted there on purpose. So i thought to myself i could use another hop or two. So i collected two rhizomes. My question.... is there a way to find out what species it is? I have several different hop varieties currently and do not really have room for something i already have. Well so swmbo says.


Also is graphing an option with hops? I have experimented with graphing mostly on trees and flowers. Never did a vine.....

Where was the plant found? On private property, or near a railroad? If you can guess roughly how old it is, that also may provide some clues to what strain it might be.
 
I have found it on Private Property that has been owned for a long time..... down side it is a farm where the hired hand lives at this house. Many people come and go. No one can tell me how old this thing is. Or how long they think this has been there. Well one Manager of the farm said atleat 5 years. From what doesnt get mowed down is about 8feet long and 3 feet wide area. All filled with rhizomes!! This thing has a network of rhizomes. And no not near a railroad.
 
My question.... is there a way to find out what species it is? I have several different hop varieties currently and do not really have room for something i already have. Well so swmbo says.

Hopefully this will be some wild variety. A lot of us here are looking for some wild hops for our hop breeding experiments.
 
Hopefully this will be some wild variety. A lot of us here are looking for some wild hops for our hop breeding experiments.

Here's another call to any "wild" hop finders. You have takers for cuttings, rhizomes, and seeds!
 
Attached are pictures of a 4-month old Sterling cutting. The brown stem was initially a green softwood cutting. Rhizomes began forming on this sooner, than those on a Centennial cutting taken 4 weeks prior to this.

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It seems like there is undocumemted breeding all the time. I order Freshops whole hops and they are full of seeds. I guess that in Idaho and Washington the hop yards are adjacent to breeding yards where there are male plants. Each seed has to be a random hybrid between the cascade or us fuggles you know you bought, and some unknown male. Sheer statistics would produce a winning new variety or two every year if you were willing to germinate every one and see what they become.

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It seems like there is undocumemted breeding all the time. I order Freshops whole hops and they are full of seeds. I guess that in Idaho and Washington the hop yards are adjacent to breeding yards where there are male plants. Each seed has to be a random hybrid between the cascade or us fuggles you know you bought, and some unknown male. Sheer statistics would produce a winning new variety or two every year if you were willing to germinate every one and see what they become.

Sent from my GMXb6277 DumbPhone.

Well, feel free to pass them along if you would...save'em up and ship'em out!
 
Attached are pictures of a 4-month old Sterling cutting. The brown stem was initially a green softwood cutting. Rhizomes began forming on this sooner, than those on a Centennial cutting taken 4 weeks prior to this

Can you explain the process of creating rhizomes from cuttings? How long does it take the cutting to form roots and rhizomes?
 
Can you explain the process of creating rhizomes from cuttings? How long does it take the cutting to form roots and rhizomes?

A mature plant has formed a crown, or a central "brain". This is where new growth will generally occur during the following season. If one is to take a cutting, as pictured above, the plant will expend energy in forming new roots. Eventually, either as a response to an environmental stimulus (daylength, nutrition, temperature, etc.) or simply a temporal response, the plant will begin to form rhizomes, which will provide nutrients for the dormant state and provide a site of active growth if something were to happen to the mature crown (a means of survival).

The plants pictured above are just over 4 months old. I initially began seeing rhizome formation and development at about 2.5 months. I will again emphasize this is varietal dependent, as the Centennial plants I currently have are grown under the exact same conditions and rhizome formation is significantly less.
 
I would like to create some rhizomes from cutting as well. Do you have any tips on how to go about that?

Can you take cuttings from side arms or do they have to come from bines that grow out of the soil?

How long of a cutting should you take? Is there anything special that you do to encourage root formation?
 
I wonder if the plant is a leftover from when the east coast was growing most of the hops? I believe it crashed due to disease in the 30's or so.
 
It seems like there is undocumemted breeding all the time. I order Freshops whole hops and they are full of seeds. I guess that in Idaho and Washington the hop yards are adjacent to breeding yards where there are male plants. Each seed has to be a random hybrid between the cascade or us fuggles you know you bought, and some unknown male. Sheer statistics would produce a winning new variety or two every year if you were willing to germinate every one and see what they become.

Sent from my GMXb6277 DumbPhone.

Freshops has been sourcing their hops from the Yakima & Willamette valleys since the late 80's and I've been using them since the early 90's. Some lots have had quite a few seeds from harvest to harvest and have been the source of the majority of my seedlings over the years. Keeping males out of all those thousands of acres is an ongoing process and you're bound to have some seeds from time to time. Variety is the spice of life!
 
I would like to create some rhizomes from cutting as well. Do you have any tips on how to go about that?

Can you take cuttings from side arms or do they have to come from bines that grow out of the soil?

How long of a cutting should you take? Is there anything special that you do to encourage root formation?

I would recommend initially that you take a cutting from the main bine. This doesn't have to be the case, but I'm not familiar with how well sidearms will root. Part of this has to do with the "maturity" of the growth. This concept will sometimes be difficult for people to comprehend, but the juvenile growth or proximal portion of the stem to the crown will generally root much easier than the distal portion. (The further away from the crown you are, the more likely you will difficulty in rooting.)

Chronologically, the growth that is at the fringe or edges of the plant in question is "young", though physiologically it is mature. This can be exemplified during harvest as you'll notice that the lower growth does not generally flower at all, and that is a result of that section of the plant not being "competent" to flower below that point.

So to answer your question, if you're interested in taking (and producing) cuttings, keep your plants short, this will promote growth closer to the crown which will be easier to root.

Second, treatment with a rooting hormone (should) increase the capacity of rooting, but this is likely variety dependent, as well as the environment you provide for it. Also, I have regenerated plants from a single leaf, though I can't recommend it, but likely as few as 1-2 nodes and as many as 3-4 will provide sufficient rooting.

There are many things in question here, and when taking a cutting you are removing the source of nutrition and life of the plant, and maintaining the environment that will promote all of these things can only help you.
 
I was reading some info on the lineage of hops http://yakimachief.com/index.php/varieties/ and found most of the newer strains I.E. Citra and Simcoe, were crosses from older European varieties. My question is do they use the older varieties because of more stable genetics?

By no means am I a breeder, but every Ag student learns a little bit about breeding/genetics somewhere in their curriculum. From what I recall is that certain plants/animals or whatever you're breeding tend to pass on very desirable traits to the offspring so they are the go-to varieties to start with in your program. This paper explains quite a bit: http://bsgcraftbrewing.com/FileCabinet/TheBreeding_Varieties[1].pdf
 
By no means am I a breeder, but every Ag student learns a little bit about breeding/genetics somewhere in their curriculum. From what I recall is that certain plants/animals or whatever you're breeding tend to pass on very desirable traits to the offspring so they are the go-to varieties to start with in your program. This paper explains quite a bit: http://bsgcraftbrewing.com/FileCabinet/TheBreeding_Varieties[1].pdf

So B-Hoppy hit on one of two main points. Desirable traits. These are tracked from beginning to end during the program. A lot of work during the final years of the breeding program results in making sure you can bring it to market.

Another thing going on here is generally referred to as hybrid vigor (or heterosis). So, this is generally applied to agronomic crops like corn, soybean, barley, and wheat. These species are primarily self-pollinating and will produce seed nearly identical to the parent plant. Genetically, these plant are generally referred to as homozygous. That is to say, at a specific loci (the location where a gene resides), the plant contains the same alleles (or trait, in the simplest sense). A heterozygote, would contain different alleles. Homozygotes are also referred to inbreds quite commonly.

When the plants are then forced to outcross with another inbred plant or population, the resultant progeny will outperform either of the parents. This phenomenon is what we refer to as heterosis.

Now, to bring it full-circle. Hops are not a self-pollinating species like corn or soybean. Their traits are highly heterozygous across the genome. So every time a breeder (public, private, or hobbyist) makes a cross, they produce 10's-1000's of potentially unique individuals (provided they all germinate and grow). Will they potentially share similar characteristics, yes of course. Look at your siblings or other family members, do you share traits? Are you crazy? (Don't feel obligated to answer that.)

But I digress, because hops are so highly heterozygous, one thing they have noticed (and Brewer's Gold and Bullion are prime examples of this, one parent was a male from Europe, and the female was a wild Canadian plant that had been shipped overseas) is that there is greater genetic distance between the European and American plants, so by crossing them together, they generally receive a few number of plants that are worthwhile selections for new varieties. (There are also a number of other varieties that have similar stories, but Brewer's Gold and Bullion are the earliest such examples.)

Brewer's Gold and Bullion, actually outperformed either parent and had greater bittering potential than either, which lead brewers to needing less in the brew kettle.
 
So just some news, I received my new seed lots (again, from different sources) and will be placing them into culture next week. I'm hoping to have better results this go around, but one never knows...

I will also be posting some pictures next week as well of some new plants.

EDIT:
03/24/2014

Just placed them into culture today. I also received some transplants that I will let acclimate in the greenhouse for a few days before I begin playing around.
 
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1395837829.451897.jpgImageUploadedByHome Brew1395837860.989485.jpg

The top picture is a 5 month old Sterling cutting, while the below picture is a 5 month old Centennial.

Both are representative of the treatments they received, and you can see that there are clear differences between varieties.

The greatest differences than can be seen is the number and size of rhizomes that are forming around the crown. Those which are not pictured here, are increased biomass (fresh weight), and there seems to be an initial correlation between size of the cutting and length of the longest root.

You can also see the blanched (whitened) portion of the original cutting that was under the soil line, and eventually differentiated and began forming the new crown structure.
 
Attached are pictures of a 2nd year plant. This is a seedling from a cross with a wild plant. It is already exhibiting some desirable phenotypic traits, greater examination and photos to come later.

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I am a bit surprised because you were asking everywhere for wild plant material and mentioning that this year attempts for seedling were not going as well as expected... just like if it was a first year experiment.

Happy to see that you have a couple of seedling to play with. :)
 
I am a bit surprised because you were asking everywhere for wild plant material and mentioning that this year attempts for seedling were not going as well as expected... just like if it was a first year experiment.



Happy to see that you have a couple of seedling to play with. :)


I don't have the wild material myself...but when I do, expect to be receiving some...


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I don't have the wild material myself...but when I do, expect to be receiving some...

Well....thanks ! Yesterday, while driving on countryside roads, I saw some dried hop plants that climbed (last Summer) on metal wires retaining electric posts. Because of their location, I am not sure if they are wild plants or not. This spot is only 10 minutes away from my house, so I will definitely visit those plants when all the snow will be gone.
 
Well....thanks ! Yesterday, while driving on countryside roads, I saw some dried hop plants that climbed (last Summer) on metal wires retaining electric posts. Because of their location, I am not sure if they are wild plants or not. This spot is only 10 minutes away from my house, so I will definitely visit those plants when all the snow will be gone.


Woot! Also, no this is not a first year experiment, but as time didn't permit my forum presence dwindled. Once I found time to browse the forum, I discovered the wide array of topics that had started and failed while also presenting false knowledge.
 
Attached are pictures of a 2nd year plant. This is a seedling from a cross with a wild plant. It is already exhibiting some desirable phenotypic traits, greater examination and photos to come later.

Is the one of the parents a named variety or are both parents wild?
 
Is the one of the parents a named variety or are both parents wild?


Named x Wild. I prefer to keep pedigree information under the radar for the moment.

ImageUploadedByHome Brew1396049612.272753.jpgImageUploadedByHome Brew1396049628.747398.jpgImageUploadedByHome Brew1396049640.701750.jpg

Picture updates, a third seedling emerged from his cage today. (The middle picture.)



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