New Boil Kettle Advice

Hello all,

I am in the market for a new boil kettle and can't decide on which of these kettles I want.
BrewBuilt ( http://www.morebeer.com/products/brewbuilt-brewing-kettle.html ), Ss Brewing Kettle ( http://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/kettles/products/ss-brew-kettle-10-gallon ), Edelmetall Brut Kettle ( http://www.northernbrewer.com/edelmetall-bru-kettle ), Spike Brewing V3 ( http://spikebrewing.com/collections/v3-products/products/v3-10gal-pre-sale ), or a Keggle ( http://www.kegglebrewing.com/DIY-Basic-Keggle_p_11.html ).

I plan on using this kettle in a 3 vessel setup and also maybe a BIAB. I want a 10 gallon kettle in order to do full volume 5 gallon batches. I would also like to be able to smaller batches ( 3 gallons ). I would like at least 2 ports ( valve and temp gauge ) and preferably horizontal in order to to use for small batches. I am unsure if weldless or welded ports make any different. Obviously some are more visually appealing but features and bang for your buck matter more to me than looks.

I was wondering everyone's opinions about each kettle. Best thing and worst thing of each kettle. Personal experience? Any and all advice/information is welcome. Also, if there is another kettle you think I should look at let me know. I am hoping for this thread to help me decide on 1 kettle or at least narrow down the list.

Thanks for any help you provide.

I started out with keggles but have been upgrading to purpose-built kettles. The keggles worked, but lacked the features I really wanted.

My first good kettle was the 15G Brewbuilt and I am still very pleased with it. It has the features I sought; welded fittings, internal volume markings, laminated bottom, silicon-covered handles. My second good pot was the very similar 15G Megapot. It has the same features except for using weldless fittings. Both have the thermo fitting higher than you have in mind. If you select the Megapot without thermometer, they don't drill that hole so you can make one wherever you want. I believe the SS kettle comes from the same OEM as these two, so should be of similar quality. I bought each when it was on sale and I'd buy whatever kettle from the same OEM was on sale at the time.

I started with a keggle. It was overkill for my use (5gal batches). They also get real heavy during cleaning at the end of the brew day. I went with two ten gal Megapots on special at Northernbrewer. The temp probe starts at the 4 gal mark. Something to think about if you plan on making 3 gal batches. The positioning of the bulk head leaves about a gallon leftover in the pot. I just installed two pickup tubes from bargainfittings.com. Now only 50oz is leftover.
SS Brewtech makes nice equipment. I absolutely love my 7 gal Chronical.

Bru gear ! Price/features = Value.
Kettles include:- thermowell, thermometer, 3 piece SS316 npt ball valve, 1.5" tri clover to 1/2" npt adapter, 2 x 1.5" tri clover clamps & gaskets as well has the interior gallon markings all for $5 less than the Brew Built.

If you're going to buy a kettle get one w/ welded ports,It's not about looking good it's about function.
It's not if it's when weldless fittings will leak and when they loosen up and start dripping when the kettle is full ,you are in for a P.O.'ed brew day !

jrcrilly said:

I started out with keggles but have been upgrading to purpose-built kettles. The keggles worked, but lacked the features I really wanted.

My first good kettle was the 15G Brewbuilt and I am still very pleased with it. It has the features I saught; welded fittings, internal volume markings, laminated bottom, silicon-covered handles. My second good pot was the very similar 15G Megapot. It has the same features except for using weldless fittings. Both have the thermo fitting higher than you have in mind. If you select the Megapot without thermometer, they don't drill that hole so you can make one wherever you want. I believe the SS kettle comes from the same OEM as these two, so should be of similar quality. I bought each when it was on sale and I'd buy whatever kettle from the same OEM was on sale at the time.

Click to expand...

Thank you for your advice jrcrilly. With the big sale season coming and most of the kettles being similar I should wait and see what goes on sale use that to decide .

TWAL said:

Bru gear ! Price/features = Value.
Kettles include:- thermowell, thermometer, 3 piece SS316 npt ball valve, 1.5" tri clover to 1/2" npt adapter, 2 x 1.5" tri clover clamps & gaskets as well has the interior gallon markings all for $5 less than the Brew Built.

If you're going to buy a kettle get one w/ welded ports,It's not about looking good it's about function.
It's not if it's when weldless fittings will leak and when they loosen up and start dripping when the kettle is full ,you are in for a P.O.'ed brew day !

Click to expand...

TWAL .... thanks for the information on the Brut gear kettle. All the extras really makes for a large bang for your buck! I like the 1/2 gallon markings inside the kettle as well. One thing I notice is the handles do not have silicone coating. Does that make a difference? Then again I can't think of a time I would want to lift a hot kettle full or wort. One thing I don't see on the website is how thick are the walls and bottom?

On one hand, it would be nice to have all matching kettles. On the other hand, I bought these separately (and will someday buy another to upgrade the HLT) and was watching for sales. When you can get 20% off on a $300+ item it makes a difference. They all look similar anyway. I'd select welded fittings over weldless for the same price but wouldn't skip a sale over that issue (as I did not with the Megapot). I'm going to be adding ports to both of them in the next few weeks anyway (whirlpool for the boil kettle, autosparge and PT100 sensor in the MLT) so they won't be all welded fittings in the end. I did have a few trickles in the keggles when I first started using them but was able to remedy both by cleaning up the holes (whoever installed the weldless fittings never deburred the holes). The current HLT keggle had welded fittings when I got it but then I added the HERMS coil and in inlet port so it has weldless on it also. That's the one that will be a project to change over; lots of hardware and ports on that one.The good news is that it can be a cheaper pot; no need for a laminated bottom on an HLT.

jrcrilly said:

On one hand, it would be nice to have all matching kettles. On the other hand, I bought these separately (and will someday buy another to upgrade the HLT) and was watching for sales. When you can get 20% off on a $300+ item it makes a difference. They all look similar anyway. I'd select welded fittings over weldless for the same price but wouldn't skip a sale over that issue (as I did not with the Megapot). I'm going to be adding ports to both of them in the next few weeks anyway (whirlpool for the boil kettle, autosparge and PT100 sensor in the MLT) so they won't be all welded fittings in the end. I did have a few trickles in the keggles when I first started using them but was able to remedy both by cleaning up the holes (whoever installed the weldless fittings never deburred the holes). The current HLT keggle had welded fittings when I got it but then I added the HERMS coil and in inlet port so it has weldless on it also. That's the one that will be a project to change over; lots of hardware and ports on that one.The good news is that it can be a cheaper pot; no need for a laminated bottom on that one.

Click to expand...

If I find any of the kettles for 20% or more off I would pull the tiger and buy it. That will probably be the deciding factor for me.

I do have a question though. How long have you used a weldless fitting without any leaking issues? Would I just need to replace the O-rings every so often? Is a laminated bottom the same as a tri-clad bottom?

Thanks again.

fwiw, all of my (5) Blichmann kettles are loaded with weldless fittings (3pc ball valves, both ends of the sight gauges, thermometers) and I've had zero issues with any of them. The oldest kettles are ~ 14 years old and they're on the original gaskets/o-rings.

Done right they're very reliable.

"Laminated" is likely synonymous with "tri-clad" in marketing-speak...

Cheers!

I just got the Megapot last week so you missed a sale there. I haven't used it yet (in the midst of a complete gear update). I've been using keggles with various weldless fittings since May, maybe two dozen brews. None of the ones I installed have leaked and the ones that weren't properly installed haven't leaked since I cleaned up the holes.

-edit- ...and I use the word laminated but I think the more common term in this context is tri-clad.

day_trippr said:

fwiw, all of my (5) Blichmann kettles are loaded with weldless fittings (3pc ball valves, both ends of the sight gauges, thermometers) and I've had zero issues with any of them. The oldest kettles are ~ 14 years old and they're on the original gaskets/o-rings.

Done right they're very reliable.

"Laminated" is likely synonymous with "tri-clad" in marketing-speak...

Cheers!

Click to expand...

14 years! Wow. I feel like welded would be easier to clean but not that much to rule out weldless. Thanks

Yea I saw that sale for the Megapot but wasn't sure on the weldless vs. welded ports. Knowingly what I do now I would have gotten one. I will just have to keep my eyes open for a sale.

I'm pretty sure "Bru gear" and ss brewtech use the same OEM manufacturer for both thier fermenters and thier kettles... The kettles both appear to be the same as the ones also marketed as the "megapot" only the Bru gear ones do not have the rubber / foam compound on the handles...
There are only so many real manufactures of this stuff and tons of distributors that sell under their own namebrand.. one could save hundreds just doing some homework. For example all the american made conical fermenters (The only 2 I know of are the style spike brewing and blichmann sells) are made by toledo metal spinning... Whereas blichmann kettles are made in china (last time I read) by a manufacturer who likely makes many different grades and styles of kettles.

Basically anyone who places a bulk order so a large number of these kettles from a manufacturer can often have whatever brand they come up with stamped on them and they can charge as much for them as their marketing scheme allows them to. Often you can buy these products direct from the manufacturer or unbranded for much less but you wont usually get the support you would from a distributor.

The guys who make the concord brand kettles also make many other name brands... one thing to consider is if its brushed theres a better possibility that its made in the U.S. the highy polished stuff all comes from china. (If thats even a concern of yours)

In a nutshell I would focus more on specs than brand names since a kettle isnt something that breaks down or needs support. Unless you buy total crap that rusts which I've yet to see in 10gallon + sizes.

I second the weldless fittings comment.. They simply work and dont develop leaks with normal use like some people believe they would. ive been using them for a few years with no issues.

Fastforwardx2 said:

14 years! Wow. I feel like welded would be easier to clean but not that much to rule out weldless. Thanks

Click to expand...

Its not like you have to take them apart to clean them? they are sealed by the oring so no liquid gets into the crevices to cause any concerns... also a little pbw in the kettle with water for a soak will dissolve and nasty organics that may somehow hide....

The ball valves and cold side are the real places where care needs to be taken to keep things clean.

Oh I was thinking I would have to take apart weldless ports and clean after every brew day.

Fastforwardx2 said:

Oh I was thinking I would have to take apart weldless ports and clean after every brew day.

Click to expand...

no.. The silicone oring and teflon tape stops the liquid from going into them or thier crevices.... its completely un necessary to ever take them apart... I give mine a good soaking with pbw every few brews along with anything else I want cleaned like my stainless hop spider.

Fastforwardx2 said:

TWAL .... thanks for the information on the Brut gear kettle. All the extras really makes for a large bang for your buck! I like the 1/2 gallon markings inside the kettle as well. One thing I notice is the handles do not have silicone coating. Does that make a difference? Then again I can't think of a time I would want to lift a hot kettle full or wort. One thing I don't see on the website is how thick are the walls and bottom?

Click to expand...

The bru gear kettles are the exact same thickness as the Brew Built,S.S. brew tech,and any of the others out there in this new style.
I had to e-mail a few times looking for answers to questions I had which weren't on the website,they were pretty responsive to the e-mails,I got answers fairly quickly.
I'm pretty sure they are all coming from the same place then they are finished out by each seller.
The silicone handles aren't necessary by any means,I have never moved any of my pots during brewing (I have a 10 gallon,15, gallon, a keggle and a 22 gallon).

augiedoggy said:

I second the weldless fittings comment.. They simply work and dont develop leaks with normal use like some people believe they would. ive been using them for a few years with no issues.

Click to expand...

It's not a belief that they will leak,they do.
My 15 gallon pot (mash tun) and my old cooler mash tun both have weldless fittings and both leak from time to time,I'm not saying it happens on a constant basis but 1 out of 5 times give or take they start to drip.
I don't know why someone would opt for these fitting when the option is there to buy a welded kettle for the same price and never have to worry about a leak.
Once is too many times in my opinion.

TWAL said:

It's not a belief that they will leak,they do.
My 15 gallon pot (mash tun) and my old cooler mash tun both have weldless fittings and both leak from time to time,I'm not saying it happens on a constant basis but 1 out of 5 times give or take they start to drip.
I don't know why someone would opt for these fitting when the option is there to buy a welded kettle for the same price and never have to worry about a leak.
Once is too many times in my opinion.

Click to expand...

Let me rephrase that,
if they are not defective, installed correctly and not abused they dont leak.

from my experience (and Daytrippers 14 years worth of experience mentioned above) I would guess that something is likely wrong on your end with either the fittings or the installation because I have 14 weldless fitting in my setup and never had an issue with any except one that I damaged the oring on installation by over tightening. I had more holes and fittings in my last setup and that too did not have leaks except whare I had the Tee mounted at the base of my MT because I kept accidently turning it down and loosening it so it leaked until I retightened it. keep in mind I have used mine well over 50 times now...

Let be fair here, your cooler leaks because of the sandwiched flimsy plastic bulkhead.. a welded fitting isnt an option here either...

There can be advantages of weldless fitting the main one is the owner can determine were the fittings are placed and add more fittings as needed as his system is upgraded or changed... also I'm sure there are a few people who have cross threaded or damaged the threads on the welded fitting which is not easy to correct.

If cost and the things I mentioned above arent concerns then sure welded is better as long as they were welded correctly because too often they are not and rust starts where the weld bead is.

My uncle welds stainless for a living and I always said if I had issues whith my weldless fittings I would have hime take care of me as hes offered numerous times... well after three years I have had no reason to take him up on that offer and I brew with electric in thin cheap stainless Bayou classic kettles. my elements are mounted with weldless oring and nut and no leaks to date... even with my old elements base rusting before I went with a new element with a stainless base.

TWAL said:

I don't know why someone would opt for these fitting when the option is there to buy a welded kettle for the same price

Click to expand...

\

As I stated above, for the same price I'd choose one with a couple of welded fittings for cosmetic reasons. The one to which you link, though, is $90 (nearly 50%) more than the 15 gallon Megapot I bought for $207; hardly the same price. That is too much for what is, to me, a cosmetic difference. Whatever fittings are there when the kettle arrives won't be all of the fittings that are there by the time I use it. This kettle will need at least an Autosparge port and a port for a PT100 sensor added. Those will be weldless, just as the extra fitting the Brewbuilt kettle will need for a whirlpool will be weldless, even though it was purchased with two welded fittings.

I have v2 spike kettles 15/15/20 all custom welded with sightglasses They are great. I also have a blichmann 10g kettle that I use for smaller batches.

I would suggest looking at the v2 spike kettles as they are all on sale right now in lieu of the v3 release.

jekeane said:

I have v2 spike kettles 15/15/20 all custom welded with sightglasses They are great. I also have a blichmann 10g kettle that I use for smaller batches.

I would suggest looking at the v2 spike kettles as they are all on sale right now in lieu of the v3 release.

Click to expand...

I saw this and thought about purchasing one but I don't think they have a tri-clad bottom. I would think that feature would be worth sending a few extra dollars to get. I plan on not upgrading from this kettle for a long time if not ever. Thanks though for pointing them out ..... the discounted price plus the coupon from here made the one I want sub $150.

jrcrilly said:

\

As I stated above, for the same price I'd choose one with a couple of welded fittings for cosmetic reasons. The one to which you link, though, is $90 (nearly 50%) more than the 15 gallon Megapot I bought for $207; hardly the same price. That is too much for what is, to me, a cosmetic difference. Whatever fittings are there when the kettle arrives won't be all of the fittings that are there by the time I use it. This kettle will need at least an Autosparge port and a port for a PT100 sensor added. Those will be weldless, just as the extra fitting the Brewbuilt kettle will need for a whirlpool will be weldless, even though it was purchased with two welded fittings.

Click to expand...

You get what you pay for...
I would never want a pot that has any potential for leaking,that is my personal preference.

This being said the OP asked for opinions on kettles and I gave him an alternative which was cheaper than all but one of the kettles he listed and a much better value than those priced higher.

Personally I want a kettle that I don't have to worry about,you want to save money and poke holes in your kettle ,to each their own.
I don't really understand why you would rather have 3 matching pots over a couple worry free pots,to me that is a LARGE price difference for cosmetic reasons.
Anything is functional for a HLT,my keggle works fine for that (welded fittings) The only piece of equipment I do have any issues w/ is my mash tun (15g pot) which has weldless fittings which leak will leak from time to time.

Not all weldless fittings are created equally. That's really the bottom line. If you installed this one and it leaked, you should be allowed to have tools.

Bobby_M said:

Not all weldless fittings are created equally. That's really the bottom line. If you installed this one and it leaked, you should be allowed to have tools.

Click to expand...

? It's the same as all the rest..
Shameless plug to say the least.

Name me one brewery that uses weldless fittings and you win until then arguing that weldess is in any way equal is pointless.

Bobby_M said:

Not all weldless fittings are created equally. That's really the bottom line. If you installed this one and it leaked, you should NOT be allowed to have tools.

Click to expand...

ftfy

TWAL said:

? It's the same as all the rest..
Shameless plug to say the least.

Name me one brewery that uses weldless fittings and you win until then arguing that weldess is in any way equal is pointless.

Click to expand...

Total shameless plug, but correct none the less. Plus, his prices are fantastic! Highly recommended! (Now send me a free dip tube for promoting your awesomeness, Bobby!)


Name one homebrewer that brews the same volume as a brewery, and has a nitpicking inspector (who goes by guidelines made by bureaucrats and pencil pushers who think Krausen is a German WWII General) up his/her ass constantly and you will win all the internets for the day.

There is nothing wrong with weldless fittings, if installed and cared for correctly... especially on equipment used for the amount of beer that homebrewers make. I've always used them, and never have I had a problem. I have OCD though, so I'm meticulous with my gear. I take everything apart after every brew day and replace the gaskets too. It's completely unnecessary, but I just can't help myself. Lol! If I had welded fittings, I'd still do the same. Replace the tape too. Four wraps around each threaded piece. Start at the top of the fitting, end at the top of the fitting. It's a nasty sickness, but my success rate is 100%. Success at what... I'm not sure, but it works!

Trying to compare a brewery's equipment to a homebrewer's gear is laughable! Plus, majority of us are cheap bastards. It's a hobby to take time away from life/stress. We try to make do any way possible. Have you seen the diy section here? I'd bet 98% of what's posted there would be a red flag to a brewery inspector... yet we use them a lot... and with great success!

Just because an inspector would frown on certain aspects, doesn't mean they're not viable solutions on the homebrew level. Get out of your ivory tower and come down by the rest of us Brew Scrubs. We're usually pretty friendly, and we have beer too!




OP, if you decide to go weldless, buy a punch. Drilling out stainless is a nightmare, and it'll kill every step bit known to man, too. A 1/2" CONDUIT punch is perfect for standard 1/2" fittings, and makes life easy. SS punching will kill the threads on the punch after 8-10 uses too, but it's far less of a hassle. Good luck, and I hope you find the kettle you most desire for the price you're willing to pay!




Disclaimer: I cannot be held responsible for my ranting. Blame New Glarus for having such delicious libations! Lol!

Thank you all for your replies. I would prefer weldless but I wouldn't want to really pay too much extra for that. Thanks k1ngl1ves for the advice about punching SS .... I didn't even think of that. .

I'm in the process of upgrading equipment and am intrigued by no-sparge brewing. I'm looking at these same brands and am interested in vessels to serve as 15 gal BK and MLT. If one were to go with Spike or Bru, etc, is it worth paying to have them integrate weldless fittings for recirculation through the side wall of the pots? Or into the lids? Or wait and punch holes later? I would really appreciate some feedback based on personal experience on this. It's expensive, so would prefer to pay it up front and have done right instead of doing myself and possibly *sparging it all up later

Just commenting to get in on the action. Also shopping for a new kettle. Northern is 20% off today, so the Edelmettal is a good deal, but no 15g in stock.

I think I'm between these at the moment...
http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/brewing-equipment/brew-kettles/edelmetall-bru-kettle
http://spikebrewing.com/collections/15-gallon-stainless-kettles/products/15gal-v3 (w/ sightglass, but no tangential inlet options which is a huge bummer)
https://conical-fermenter.com/15-Ga...rmowell-Tangential-Inlet-and-Sight-Glass.html (yes)

Waiting for reviews on the Edelmettal.

Anyone know if Spike or Stout kettles ever go on sale?

Ended up getting a 10 gallon AMCYL kettle with a thermometer 2" stem. Not my first choice. Had everything I needed. Tri-clad bottom and thick wall. Extras were a three piece ball valve and thermometer all for only about $167. Thank you Home Brew Supply for the awesome deal. Doesn't have welded ports but I am ok with the weldless. Thank you all for your advice.

I do have a couple questions. 1) Should I get a dip tube or something like a bazooka screen to filter out debris from the wort. 2) Should I put on some type of thermo well for the thermometer stem since I BIAB?

Thanks again guys.

Thanks again for the advice