EBIAB Questions

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wobdee

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I'm thinking of maybe going this route and was wondering just how well the grains circulate around inside the bag? Do they move around or sit on the bottom? Is it just the wort that moves through the grains?

What about hot or cold spots? Is there much difference in temps throughout the mash?

Do you just let the pump run wide open or control the outflow with a valve?

Right now I brew 2.5-3 gal batches with an 8 gal kettle, 400 micron s/s mash basket and a 3500w induction burner. I would like to start out with a pump and see how well that would work with my basket and burner then maybe purchase a rims tube and PID to control temps better.

Thanks, any info or comments are appreciated.
 
wobdee said:
I'm thinking of maybe going this route and was wondering just how well the grains circulate around inside the bag? Do they move around or sit on the bottom? Is it just the wort that moves through the grains?

What about hot or cold spots? Is there much difference in temps throughout the mash?

Do you just let the pump run wide open or control the outflow with a valve?

Right now I brew 2.5-3 gal batches with an 8 gal kettle, 400 micron s/s mash basket and a 3500w induction burner. I would like to start out with a pump and see how well that would work with my basket and burner then maybe purchase a rims tube and PID to control temps better.

Thanks, any info or comments are appreciated.
Click to expand...

Unless you set your recirc up to whirlpool, the grain won't move around much.

If recirculating with an uninsulated kettle, then you will have significant temp gradients near the kettle walls, unless you whirlpool and supply heat on a regular basis. Once you go electric heating, you can insulate the kettle. The better the insulation, the lower the thermal gradients will be.

You definitely need to be able to throttle the outlet of the pump. How far you can open the valve will depend on how well your bag/basket drains, which will be affected by your grain bill.

Brew on :mug:
 
Thanks Doug, that makes sense. My kettle is insulated so I got that part covered. I guess I need a separate valve after the outflow of the pump to regulate the flow or can I use the valve I already have right off the kettle?
 
wobdee said:
Thanks Doug, that makes sense. My kettle is insulated so I got that part covered. I guess I need a separate valve after the outflow of the pump to regulate the flow or can I use the valve I already have right off the kettle?
Click to expand...

Yes, you absolutely need a valve on the pump outlet. You must not use the kettle valve (inlet side of the pump) to throttle the pump flow. If you try to do this the impeller will most likely cavitate, so pumping will stop, and you will destroy the impeller if it goes on very long (no I don't know the actual time to damage.)

Brew on :mug:
 

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