Electric BIAB and Nylon Voile Experiment

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Since you are using 220v, could you not just install 2 switches for the two hots on the 220v cord and disable one of the hots making the power output 1/4 for keeping the mash temperature? Would this not prevent the bag from scorching?

When you switch OFF one of the hot leads, you will need to switch ON a neutral lead or you will have no power to your element. Be sure to use a "breaks before it makes" switching arrangement. A three position (ON/OFF/ON) switch controlling two seperate SPST contactors would work.

I'm no good with schematics. There are folks who can draw one up in their sleep (P-J).
 
Would this work with a 220v gfci?
Or would the lack of power on one of the 110v trip it?
 
I too have made several BIAB batches successfuly with my electric system. This last batch both my elements melted. I have a false bottom so no bag ever touches the elements. You guys are dead on with the slow recirculating system. I was making a Roggenbier, which is almost all rye grain, and I had a pool on top of my grain bed. So, does anyone think rice hulls would solve this problem?

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I too have made several BIAB batches successfuly with my electric system. This last batch both my elements melted. I have a false bottom so no bag ever touches the elements. You guys are dead on with the slow recirculating system. I was making a Roggenbier, which is almost all rye grain, and I had a pool on top of my grain bed. So, does anyone think rice hulls would solve this problem?

What I've done, and it seems to work okay, is to make a tube out of SS screen, like a kettle filter. I put it in between the bag and the kettle and it acts as an overflow pipe. This, and keeping the flow rate down helps. The one time I scorched my element is when I didn't have this pipe and I stirred. Stirring upsets the flow through the grain bed, I think.
 
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